Had a visitor this week. As I was watering my plants I noticed this red spot on one of the leaves... To my surprise it was a ladybug. I don't have aphids or nothing like that, and I don't have the slightest idea where this litle nugget came from.... Besides that all plants are doing OK, NL 1 is a litlle slower than the other ones and its just now starting to show first signs of flower. The other ones did that last week... The NL1 and MC started drinking and eating a lot. They go trough 700ml in a day and half. Upping the watering dosage this week so I can have more time between waterings. I like around 3 days.

Is going well.^^

Dec 28 - Both plants are close to harvest. Had 5.5. hours of darkness after 24 hr period to prevent budrot developing. Also moved plants inside tent moreso, and closer to fans. Dec 28 - Watered healthy plant today at 2PM - I'll chop unhealthy plant tomorrow, so didn't water, instead inspected trichomes. Dec 28 - Unhealthy Plant is showing amber trichomes, but also clear - Unsure if I should chop tomorrow or not. Dec 29 - DAY 73 - CHOPPED - Trimmed larger fan leaves (accidentally trimmed a sugar leaf or two) and harvested to dry whole, upside down. I'm hoping for a half ounce per plant. Dec 19 - 11.50PM Trichome Calyx' were observed, there are new calyx' appearing. Calyx' are swelling. Dec 30 - Plant developing more senescence and calyx are swelling. Dec 30 - Trichomes are still clear, but I'm seeing some PM develop so I think I'll chop tomorrow morning. Dec 31 - Nice Senescence occurring, Happy to have left it this last day. Accidentally left temps up to 78F for a half hour. Dec 31 - Decided to push another week as per feedback from GD member. When watering I noticed she was perky after 3 days w. no water. Interesting and likely the frequency I'll continue watering at. Dec 31 - Watered at 9PM. Jan 1 - Removed small fan leaf with signs of PM at the base. This defoliation should help with airflow. Checked newly formed calyx' and they're clear enough not to document. Jan 2 - Buds are developing nicely, calyxes are noticably swelling nicely too. I see some green pistils appearing in the lowest buds. Clear Trichomes. Jan 3 - Watered at 8AM. Woke up to 90F temp. Unfortunately they'd been cooking for about an hour. Jan 3 - DRYING UPDATE - I'm seeing fluctuations in the drying room between RH 49% and 70%. As of 3.10PM @ 61RH after adding jars of water. I want to maintain this RH. Jan 3 - Senesence looking good, calyx' are continuing to swell. Will inspect trichomes tomorrow at latest.

Last week of flower. Flushing plants this week with 150 to 200ml water ph 7.0 to 8.0each day Day 76 plants are pretty much ready for harvest. Buds have fattened up a abit. Day 77. Alot more orange hairs. Buds fattening up still by a little. Plenty of milky trichomes. Harder to spot orange trichomes but can see them.

End of third week of flowering, all good :) besides small problems with SSH - little deficiencies of calcium. Also, again... I noticed some of mosaic virus on Power Plant They smell already a lot :) Lamp on 100% power, 35cm from closest bud, in the center 1300 - 1500 PPFD and on the sides around 1100 - 1300 PPFD - POWER!

Welcome to Veg Week 3 of Fast Buds Purple Haze Auto I'm excited to share my grow journey with you from my FastBuds Project . It's going to be an incredible ride, full of learning, growing, and connecting with fellow growers from all around the world! For this Project , I’ve chosen the Feminized Auto Purple Haze: Here’s what I’m working with: • 🌱 Tent: 120x60x80 • 🧑‍🌾 Breeder Company: Fast buds • 💧 Humidity Range: 60 • ⏳ Flowering Time: 8 Weeks • Strain Info: 23%THC • 🌡️ Temperature: 26 • 🍵 Pot Size: 0.1 • Nutrient Brand: Hy-Pro • ⚡ Lights : 600W x 2 A huge thank you to Fast Buds for allowing me to try my Best with this amazing collection from Automatic and Photo Strains they managed to Sponsore . Big thanks for supporting the grower community worldwide! Your genetics and passion speak for themselves! I would truly appreciate every bit of feedback, help, questions, or discussions – and of course, your likes and interactions mean the world to me as I try to stand out in this exciting competition! Let’s grow together – and don’t forget to stop by again to see the latest updates! Happy growing! Stay lifted and stay curious! Peace & Buds!

Hello everyone 👨‍🌾🏻 she grew fast and with a beautiful green colour on the leaves! She has responded superbly to LST and topping & i defoliated her aswell and seems didn't even notice 😎 Wish you all a good day and happy growing

(Days 21-28) (Day 23) I like the amount of stretch I’m seeing on practically all the plants. I'm going to lower the light at the end of the week to stop the stretch. The more stretch they get in veg the less I have to lollipop or prune down the road. Makes lst easier too. I’m going to try topping this week. Last time I topped at the 7-10th nodes and didn’t get the best horizontal growth. This round I’m ready to give everything 3 or more toppings, stay on top of training and defoliate much less. This soil looks insane. I should have added a thicker layer of oats because it’s starting to look proper. (Day 24) Got my stuff from the hydro store today and amended my soil again. Next visit I will be grabbing a P booster like bat guano before I enter flower. Today, I got the 2gal pots, some primo worm castings, 5-2-4 insect frass, 0-0-22 langbenite, 1-0-3 alfalfa meal and an exhale co2 bag. Guy at the store said it gets his 4x4 tent 1000ppm+. It takes a few weeks at least for it to start putting out any amount of co2. I got the room sealed and two fans bowing. I fed a compost tea with a little bit of each dry amendment, BSO dry compost, boogie brew base and worm castings aerated for 24h. I diluted it to about 850ppm which still might be a little high. (Day 25) Opened a bottle of EM1 that was improperly stored and it exploded all over me and part of the tent. I wiped off the plants but there is still specks here and there. Cleaned it off and sprayed with method1 pps. (Day 26) Topped 9/15 plants. Will do the rest next week once I see a little more growth. 5 of the bbb’s I started 6 days after everything else so they are still quite behind. I’m going to push the transplant another few days until they recover. Going to start lst after transplant. (Day 28) Transplanting into 1.6gal pots that I thought were 2gals tonight... Depending on how many females I get, they will be going into either 3, 7 or 10 gallon fabric pots. Growth is looking solid so far, zkittlez and the 3 WW’s are leading the pack in terms of growth speed and cotes are yellowing out. I’m pretty sure what I have is a zkittlez bagseed but there is also a strong chance it could have been from some shitty Canadian biker weed. I accidentally misplaced the seed so it’s possible it got mixed up and I germinated the wrong one. Judging by the rapid growth I’d say that’s a fair bet. Biker weed is notoriously fast growing. Either way it won’t be hard to tell once they’re in flower. The white widow is probably going to be a breeze. I’ve heard that’s why it’s so popular too. It’s just a hardy rookie strain with good resistance, decent quality and above average yield. A sure investment. The blackberries are lagging behind but I’m sure they will blow the others away in terms of quality. One of the tunas looks great and the other is a stubby runt. The stubby runt I currently have in flower is killing it right now so I’m not writing it off yet. Can’t wait to see if the tuna god produces some nostalgic smells. Tuna strains are still super popular on the Canadian black market. I plucked the first set of leaves that were starting to appear on each plant. These branches almost always turn to larf and they're so small I can't that stressing the plants out at all this early. If anything, the zkittlez and white widows need to slow down a bit anyway. I’ve been doing a shit ton of research over the past year into what causes weed and cigarettes to have black ashes/poor fire holding capacity. Smoking black weed drives me crazy because it’s all the legal and black market have nowadays. The cigar industry has numerous studies on the cause of ash color and burn rate and apparently it has to do with the ratio of mineral content in the soil/water. Soil/water that is high in phosphorus, magnesium, chlorine and other heavy metals will burn poorly and reduce to flaky black ashes. Whereas soil that has higher levels of potassium and calcium carbonate have thick uniform white ashes with no streaks. Calcium carbonate (wood ash, biochar) can also prevent heavy metals in the soil making them unavailable to the plant. I’m discontinuing my “Organic cal mag” as it is full of chlorine which I did not realize when buying it. I’m going to be pretty cheesed if that stuff ruined the burn of my current flowering crop. My dog also found and destroyed my Alaskan fish fertilizer so that’s being discontinued for now too.

------GENERAL COMMENT------ We arrived pass mid flowering as we are now starting week 5 of flower. No issues, bumped up a bit the Sensi Bloom to 2.5 after 3ml, and have seen the girls darken a bit, so i decided to go down a bit to 2ml this week, maybe stick to this dosage depending how the girls react. The tent have become small for or two ladies, no way to train them more, there is no space. Decided to move forward without a mid grow flush. Still on the 1.5l of water every other day, one base + recharge + pk booster, other with pk booster + natures candy + velokelp alternating. Today was the last Pk booster - Big Bud dose, now we will cut the Big Bud and enter with the Overdrive, the rest will be as is. ------GG. AK47 COMMENT------ I'm loving to grow this strain, so curious about the smoke, and the outcome, this one exceed my expectations a lot seen that it was a gift seed... She is less dark than the BB but still a little dark, and a bid very bid of tip burn, so -1ml of sensi /l should be fine.

And just like that, the ninth and final week of flowering has come to an end. After months of training, adjusting, observing, and patiently waiting, the girls have finally reached the finish line. Unfortunately, the last week wasn't entirely stress-free. Humidity became particularly challenging, reaching levels much higher than I would have liked this close to harvest. With the flowers now at their densest, this naturally made me more cautious about potential mold and bud rot. One bud on Planet of the Grapes caught my attention, as it appears to be showing either some localized damage or the early signs of bud rot. I have been monitoring it very closely, and thankfully, the surrounding flowers still look healthy and unaffected. With harvest planned for tomorrow, I don't intend to take any unnecessary risks—if the affected area looks any worse, it will simply be removed during harvest. Now for the good news: the girls have finished beautifully. Trichome development is right around where I wanted it to be, with most plants showing approximately 15% amber trichomes, although naturally there is some variation between cultivars and even between individual flowers. Some are slightly further along, while others could probably continue for a little longer. Nevertheless, I have decided to harvest the entire tent together at the end of Week 9. They have matured closely enough to one another that a synchronized harvest makes the most sense, especially since I would rather not set up a second tent purely for drying. Looking back, it's satisfying to see how much the garden has changed. What started as four relatively small plants eventually became a completely filled canopy of heavy, frosty flowers. There were challenges along the way—yellowing leaves, summer heat, stubborn humidity, light adjustments, deficiencies, and branches eventually becoming too heavy to support themselves—but the plants kept pushing forward. And now there is nothing left to adjust. No more chasing the perfect light distance. No more canopy management. No more wondering how much they will stretch or how large the flowers will become. Tomorrow, the scissors finally come out. After nine weeks of flowering and a lot of patience, harvest day has arrived. 🌿✂️

She is smth special!!!! Unbelievable

Everything is great the young ladies are happy and that makes me happy

NOTES: Keeping pH at 5,8-5,9 through the entire Vegetation-phase. EC is now around 1,2 and i'm increasing it if needed. I'll be checking the levels regularly from this week since all of the hydroponic systems are now running. I'm going to add some ice cubes in to the nutrient tanks to cool nutrient solution a bit always when I remember to, even though temperatures haven't been an issue so far. Can't do any harm so why not I quess. I'm also adding a CO2-bag in to the tent above the plants. Also I'll begin training my plants this week by topping them. Day 22 (8.11.) Lights are set to 70%, water pumps are now on for 24/7 (EBB's drain water is on lowest setting possible to avoid drowning the roots) and pH is 5,8-5,9 / EC 1,2-1,3 on every hydroponic system. I topped all of my plants and cut off all of the lowest leafs with single tips and some of the small nodes starting from them. Day 23 (9.11.) pH-level keeps on raising so I'm gonna be measuring it pretty often. I'm correcting it by adding some pH- while filling up the nutrient tanks with small amounts of fresh nutrient solution at a time. Everything's going well and I can't wait to flower these! Day 24 (10.11.) Lights are now set to 80% power at 70-75cm height from the tops. I cut off the rest of the lowest nodes which I had left to some of the plants while topping them. I don't think they would get enough light when they are bigger. Day 25 (11.11.) Removed the lowest (three-pointed) leafs of each plant. Day 26 (12.11.) I moved the Led's a bit higher (now at ~90cm above plants) and set them up to full power. Plants are now around 11-14cm height and growing like crazy! Day 27 (13.11.) The growing has exploded and these plants are getting bigger and bigger. I'm going to defoliate them lightly and remove the lowest nodes so the plants have around 6 nodes each going forward, hopefully I'll get an even canopy. Day 28 (14.11.) I changed new nutrient solution in to the EBB-flood system which has the Ayahuasca's on it. I'm keeping the EC at around 1,3-1,4 and pH at 5,8-5,9 on every system. Also added small amount of Cal-Mag in to both NFTs.

Notes. Week 18 (week 11 flower) Light settings 12/12 on at 9.00am off at 9.00pm Viparspectra Light power= 75% 165w VPD aim 1.0-1.2 DLI aim 35 Extractor settings temperature 23c with 0c steps Humidity 30% with 0% steps Max speed 10 Min speed 4 Monday 17/7/23 Day 120 (day 74 flower) Looking good. Tuesday 18/7/23 Day 121 (day 75 flower) Defoliate Wednesday 19/7/23 Day 122 (day 76 flower) Harvest #3 338g Hung to dry. Extractor settings temperature 20c with 0c steps Humidity 50% with 0% steps Max speed 10 Min speed 2 Thursday 20/7/23 Day 123 (day 1 dry) Removed some fan leaves. Friday 28/7/23 Day 132 (day 9 dry) Trim #3 FBPHP14, dry 38g. Larf 4g. Saturday 29/7/23 Day 133 (day 1 cure) Saturday 5/8/23 Day 140 (day 8 cure) Put humidity packs in the jars. Friday 11/8/23 Day 146 (day 14 cure) Stop using auto burping system now and burp less frequently for a bit. Saturday 12/8/23 Day 147 (day 15 cure) Sunday 27/8/23 Day 162 (day 30 cure) Sampled Stats for the grow #1 377g #3 338g #4 276g #5 393g #6 312g Total wet weight =1696g #1 FBPHP12, dry 40g. Larf 4g. #3 FBPHP14, dry 38g. Larf 4g. #4 runtz, dry 29g. Larf 2g. Rot 5g. #5 Pink Rozay, dry 38g. Larf 6g. #6 Candy Rain, dry 34g. Larf 0g. Total dry weight. 179g Total dry larf weight 16g Loads of trim so going run some hash.

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

Hey everyone 😀. Another veggie week goes by and they are developing surprisingly well 😃. Both phenotypes look very nice and have a perfect leaf green. Both were topped again. I wish you lots of fun with the update, and stay healthy 🙏🏻🍀 You can buy this Strain at : https://sweetseeds.es/de/sweet-skunk-f1-fast-version/ Type: Sweet Skunk F1 Fast Version ☝️🏼 Genetics: Sweet Skunk Auto (SWS34) X Early Skunk 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

Que pasa familia, vamos con la segunda semana de floración de estas Monster Maker feminizadas de Sweetseeds. Vamos al lío, las plantas se trasplantaron a macetas de 7 litros. El ph se controla en 6.5, la temperatura la tenemos entre 24/22 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. El ciclo de crecimiento puse 12h de luz, el foco está al 50% de potencia. Me gustaría estar más encima este cultivo pero la salud me está impidiendo un poco este 100% con el proyecto. Con suerte la semana que viene andaré mejor. - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida Descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨