some sugar starts to shown

Mary Jane the Sour Citrus by Sp3cialAg3n7 steals the spotlight at 8"! Lit up by dazzling LEDs, it's a thriving superstar. Perfect conditions, zero odors, and artistic shaping through LST and defoliation. Get ready for more green magic! #GrowDiary #SourCitrus #MaryJane

The Weather changed daily and the temps dropped to 15 degrees at Daytime. She looked sad all week but as soon as the Sun comes out she's happy.

Second week. It's growing very fast now

This first week was pretty rough. I originally started with one seed and one clone. The seed never sprouted because I think that I over watered it. So I went and got another clone so that they will be a little more close in age when it’s time to harvest.. day 1 I over watered and then as soon as it dried up 3 days later I over watered again. The leaves started to yellow and flop down . I spoke to someone at the grow shop and they told me that I’m using too much light and that I watered way too much. So I turned off one of the 2 150 watt lights and I drained all of the run off in the collection tray. Now I’m not watering until completely dry . I’ve seen a little bit of growth it’s been 3 days for the apples and bananas and that one looks good so far. Also Today I noticed white forming on the dirt around the sides of the flower pot? Is this mold? And if so how can I safely get rid of it? . After draining excess water and turning off one of the lights 2 days later The doc og is already starting to look better the leaves are turning up and I think I’m starting to see a little growth

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

This week I tried to let them go, only did some gnat hunting with the vacuum to keep populations down. Sunshine found a great way to hold the plant down with some thrift store Christmas light fixtures. At the end of this week, I tied the remaining upward stalks down and away. The final bits of training before we can hopefully go towards flowering coming week. I did some foliar feeding also to help the soil dry out a bit, also to fight the gnats. Maybe overdid it a bit with a few yellow points on the leaves. On to flowering!!

Bestva Quantum Board LM301B / Mr Hide seeds Semana 8 desde germinación Semana 4 de floración En 6 plantas tengo 3 tiempos diferentes. Dos empezaron a engordar de forma veloz y se les ha aplicado PK durante la semana. Dos están un poco más retrasadas, tal vez el equivalente a una semana. Hoy se empezará con PK para ellas. Dos están aún más atrás. Se ven sanas. Buenos humos

Niccceee

All details will be added every day/week if u have any questions feel free to ask. December 4th:starting in the winter, veg and bloom will happen under 400watt hps to keep the grow room warm. the seeds have been germinating for 2 days with the wet paper towel technique, they got root and are now in soil and the rockwool cube. for now im just waiting for the seeds to show root coming out of the rockwool, then i transplant to the netpot with clay pellets straight in the dwc, untill then they get fluorescent light (max 7 days) these are autoflowers so they get 18 or 20 hours light. nutrients General hydroponics three part :micro gro bloom and calmag water: rainwater (25ppm) i hope the room wont cool of too much when the lights go out. Day 1 (December 5) seeds start to come above the rockwool and the soil Day 2 (december 6) stems start to stretch i give them both pure rain water with 100ppm calmag when they feel dry. Day 4 (december 8) still no root visible out of the rockwool Day 5 (december 9) root visible outside of rockwool cube and transplant to the 55Liter rdwc air pumps 10l/minute Day 7 (december 11) root comes trough netpot, i lowered the water by removing 3Liters

So this week I've added some co2 bags too help with the temperature raise here in my country and I've been told that not only too plants use co2 too grow but it also gives them the ability too withstand higher temps , I have been told by a grower that with co2 bags the plants can withstand temps of 35c with no ill effects on the plants so they have been placed Infront of the air intake pipes ,

A really hot week last week, The lamp doesn’t make it any easier but steady at 28 degrees now. OG auto in its final days I think, leaves are starting to turn yellow so I’ve started a flush, it’s a beautiful plant, 80% of the plant is covered in bud, I’ll post some good pics before harvest. Not gonna be a crazy yield but for the size of the plant really decent. The feminized OG are all exploding with bud sites, amazing how fast it’s going the smell is getting better by the day Gorillas are cute! Flowering a little slower but a lot bushier and the leaves are sooooo pretty! Started to give more water and upping the dosage of nutes since I’ve not seen any signs of over feeding might as well try it out Okloveyoubye ❤️

The plants came down after 64 days in flower, and 99 days total. I'm super happy with the results as of right now. I love the color on these buds and they seem super dense. The smell while trimming was very gassy, and I think it'll smell great after curing. The buds still need to dry, which I expect to take just over a week. They'll be drying in the tent at about 70F and around 60% humidity. The humidity is a little high after being in the tent over night at 64%, but I'm hoping that will creep down as the buds lose more moisture. I'll update later after the buds have dried and I'm able to weigh them. The drying turned out great. I've struggled with some past grows getting rid of the wet grass smell after drying, but I let it go an extra day this time and the smell seems to have gone away. Ended up with about 4.5 ounces in total, which I'm happy with. Now the buds are all curing, and I'll probably wait close to a week before smoking any of the cured bud.

Still waiting for amber colors before I harvest watching daily. Watering with just Poland spring as needed and will will allow soil to dry up a day or two prior to harvesting. As usual I hope everyone nothing but the best and appreciate each one of you. Have a great day!!

Привет садовники !

Ill write from pc but as im trying to add a new nutrient i need to see if bulk ups without od The update, and some source of knowledge - sadly the product is not registered . https://www.growbaratochile.cl/thc-fertilizantes/sales-de-epson.html https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-epsom-salts-a-natural-hack-to-grow-healthy-cannabis-plants-n837 Thus: big gas leaks homies have nice halloween, the reason i'd flooded with photo this week was i needed to record any negative reaction caused by the incorporation of epson salts on the watering as i understand this shit also adds sulphur and be spreaded on soil for slow release, fixing too light or weakened soils , something i can't do with cal mag from bac, but that product has other sceneario where i can both water or spray on veg until early flowering so i wanted to try it but i didn't know the ratio, and the purposed spoon i used it on 1.5lt of water on 9 x 11lt Killer Kush that were soft to mild on specific carencies , additionaly, of using a very demanding food schema by boosters can accentuate the lack of specific nutrients like Calcium and Magnesium , so this add thick kick of Mg prevention as it pretty neat it's understanding, except on instructing the dosage and application. I did some barrier as is the last week i can do foliar spray as these bastards but furthermore is really a red flag as u can create the conditions for contract some fungi. By a lot of having still figuring out the perfection of both illumination & thermals , still trying to enhance the light spectrum , and doing the first interaction with uv exposition to check that plants dont stress or physically burn, as i want to do the uv shit for late flowering as i expect by genetics this shit SHOULD BE A QUICK FLOWERING so, im entering to late flowering and do it for entire 4 weeks and then consider if plants show that are ripe enough, considering there is a quick underdeveloped automatic at bottom on a 12/12 scenario, and thus that motherfucker will not be forgiven by it unstability of this batch. 👻 Also i noticed i had slight fox-tailing that was quite provoked by messed up outside weather, so i still may need to ellaborate on lights to prevent excess of generated heat as well, as can incur in some penalty . I have a faint idea how to deal with as HEAT HERE WILL BE HELL.

All good, just tucking and lst, flipping in 2 weeks

Weekly update on these beautiful ladies. Did another defoliating this week as well as lollipopped them up another node. I feel it helps mature the lower flower sites and allows plenty of airflow though the leafs. I introduced bloom nutes as well as P&K. All in all Happy Growing