Sorry for the late post had a very busy period. The buds are great, good feedback from patients. First time I've been able to taste a fully organic bud and I can say I won't be going back!

I'm new to planting Please adv

Day 66 of flower 4 Afghani hindu kush by seed😁🔥 1 chocolate mint og by clone😋🍁 Light: marshyrdo tsw2000 full power (310)watts +- 18 inches above 🌞☀️ Nutrients: fox farm dirty dozen pack (12 bottles) 🦊🚜 Grow medium: 50/50 coco coir and compost with 30% perlite added 👍😎 I started to flush with 10 gallons of plain water ph to 6.5

_____ Week 6 | Day 49 - 56 ______ Day 49 🌞 - Install 2 LED BARS from Spider-Farmer. https://www.proximitylighting.com/home-2-1 THE OPTIMAL ADDITION OF LIGHT By increasing PPFD levels in the most light-hungry layers of the crop, deploys addional wattage where it's most useful to encourage: • Tighter internodal spacing • Larger average cola size • Increased cola uniformity • Higher output per square foot Day 50 🌞 - 2 Liter each Plant....gluck, gluck, gluck.... Day 53 🌞 - light switch to 12/12 - defoliation all leafs under the net Day 55 🌞 - 2,5 Liter each Plant....gluck, gluck, gluck.... ____________________________________________________________________________________________ Light - 18/6 h - 400 Watt 60% Dim. PPFD - 600 - 650 µmol Temp. avg. - 22,1° Hum. avg. - 72 % RLH

Ya está todo el espacio lleno, las nenas empiezan a sacar cogollitos por todas partes y el olor empieza a ser penetrante pero dulce. Perdonad la calidad del vídeo, pero aún no tenía pensado hacerle el diario.

so, go buy it, go grow it, go get some Euphoria.... you need it

This plant is my 3th attempt, trying to find a specific taste I'm searching since I started to grow, in 2020. Plant just been harvested. Now it gonna need some more weeks of drying and curing, before I can finally evaluate the taste 😍 So, for now, I can only talk about the grow, and I'll edit my diary later. 10 weeks of flowering (total 20 weeks), this was a long run! Royal Queen Seeds say that strain usually take 7 to 9 weeks of flowering. Mine took a bit longer. She was absolutely the easiest plant I ever grown. She never shown big sign of deficiencies. She germinated fast (seed direct to the pot). I applied main-lining method (Nebula's / Topping at node 3, then node 3 again) and performed LST during the growth. She perfectly dealt with it, never slowed by the toppings. I remember that she took less than 10 hours to recover from second topping, and re-allign every branchs to the light, after LST. This was insane to me. I did some mistakes during the grow : 1) Excess of Biobizz - Fishmix during grow, until early flowering. This been fixed by following the advices from @AsNoriu who suggested to transplant the Queen to a new pot. So she moved from a 16L to a 30L during 2nd week of flowering. This was risky, it's not really recommended to transplant during flowering.... But the risk at to be taken. And she totally did good. One week later, she was looking way more healthy. 2 weeks later, she was on fire!!! 2) I brook the main cola, same week than the transplant. I was trying to apply the LST again. A bit too much of tension, and Crack! Quickly fixed. The plant don't even realized. She don't slowed bad signs, and continued to grow perfectly. She spent some weeks outdoor during Veg. And this is how i got some thrips problem during end of veg. I sprayed black soap, then water, and then Biobizz - Leafcoat. This got rid of mainly all thrips. I was still seeing one or two begining of flowering, so I continued to use water and biobizz - Leafcoat. But as she was flowering, she started to get totally covered of trichomes, even on fan leaves, and under the leaves. Thrips had no chance there. So the plant ended this problem by herself, and I don't had to spray anything during flowering, and never saw thrips again ^^

Let me know what y’all think I went all out on the training and defoliation 🤟🏻Started adding some molasses into the water schedule there’s a couple that are stunned for sure already budding. Just trying to learn as much as possible thanks gromies! Ps Excuse my long toes🤣

Well I made a few upgrades since last week. First I went ahead and invested in a nice A/C unit. I also, improved the exhaust setup. I went ahead and took a plant out and germinated another ( I wanted to add a different strain. Lol). The ladies seem to be doing pretty well. They are all on their 4th or 5th node. I am waiting until the 6th node and then do thier first topping. Thanks for all the support! 😃😃😃

27th jan: Topped and Started LST. Plants are looking fine. Expecting slowed growth. Looking to baby these plants with the LST not looking to break any stems so slow and steady wins the race, especially when you only have 2 plants . Minimal lollipopping as Im making sure to leave them bushy Im not sure if I have said this already but I abandoned the main-lining idea, good for when you have a lot of space but I need to keep it under 30cm for flower, I need that bushy plant as instead ill have lots of stem taking up space instead of colas. I might try mainlining next run. 31st jan: theres a possiblity I might have a 2 meter tall tent, in which case I really shouldnt be training these plants that hard. But im still training for 15cm until veg. #1 really hates me and is just trying to increase in height. (not stretching i dont think) So I upped my game and really took a few minutes to delicately tuck those leaves out. #2 im not sure whether its having a hard time recovering from the initial top, but it literally hasnt increased in height at all. Interesting 2nd feb: note: keep lights at 50-60 % through veg. Plants were 31c at 75-80% and started canoeing (heat stress) #1 seems to be vegging much faster than #2, probably the reason why it has developed some sort of deficiency. I assume potassium. #2 is a bit slower but seems perfectly healthy, seems to be growing out more bushy and doesnt really care about vertical growth. 3rd feb: added 60 grams of 248 (bloom 1) fertiliser to top dress for each plant over 1.5 liters per plant. This water also had some banana peels I let brew over 2 days. Not sure if it will do anything but we will see.

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

Only 1 feeding this week no watering, I will water orange today pot drying out quicker than banana. I've done some light defoiliation on lower branches of both plants.

Lots of wind and electric storms this week but they're still growing up, I did a defoliation and still watering with fish, roots and bio bloom from biobizz. Mucho viento y tormentas eléctricas pero siguen creciendo bien. He hecho una defoliacion y sigo regando solo con biobizz. Cuando este en plena floracion le metere BloomBastic.

Apologies for not updating last week, I have just been really busy! These last couple of weeks have been great - her growth is coming along very well. There are no signs of any deficiencies as of yet, what is your opinion! In regards to defoliating and lollipopping - what growth would you suggest I get rid off?

Major defoliation/ lollipoping that happened this week right on day 20 my main concern was looking for more hermies (due to stem cracks from lst) and also cut out any lower branches that where going to make larfy buds. I only cut up the branches untill the point that the budsites where at least a nice pistil cluster (10and up ) some branches got a good 6-7 inches shaved off some more like 2-3 just depends on the plant with so much variety. Also my plants are like touching the lights it just wont let me mark less then 4inches i have the ability to raise my light another 2inches so i will definitely be doing that. For now i have the taller branches off to the sides so the can outgrow the light without burning. Smells finally starting to come in with more gassy earth coming from DD and devine chocolate GG4 smell coming from the mellows Still see some nitrogen toxicity not sure if should cut all nutes in half considerIng week three biogrow increases to 3ml/L

Todo marcha correctamente, tratamos de igualar la canopia antes de pasar a floracion

Fire 🔥 she smoked nice. Smooth and got a sexy taste. Overall a easy grown and will try again