Week 7, day 28 of Bloom

2/7: Did a thorough feeding today, and also foliar fed with Microlife Maximum Blooms. Added humic acid. This plant is frosting over really nicely and starting to show some senescence....shades of deep blue and purple in her foliage. 2/12: Fed today..no time for anything else..

The coco hempy buckets continue to impress. The rate of growth is just insane compared to the conservative nature of hand watered soilless mix. The girls are getting 2 heavy feedings daily, once right before lights on, once at lights off. Responding tremendously. The largest daughter has broken 4 feet this week and hopefully the stretch is coming to a close. Good thing for my headroom. I am having difficulty with humidity this week due in part to the weather, but I feel mostly because of an underpowered ac and mucho transpiration coming from the leaves. Set for second round defoliation in three days and hopefully some break from the heat. Struggling to keep the room under 70 rh right now.

Sorry for the delay was in a wedding this weekend came home and been trimmin like a dog the past few days but I gotta feed everything in this tent tmm so I'm gunna get some pics. If your interested in the pics come back tmm night. The only 3 autos in 1 gal bags are the mexican airlines, pineapple express and blue dreamatic. Theyll stay pretty small and dry out quick so they are tough to keep up with cuz I only feed when I'm feeding the big ones. I dont mix up separate batches for these I just dilute the big batch which is usually 10-13 gal at a time

Ended up flushing Mumma for about 10 days - got her ppm down real low. Night before harvest I set the timer so the light would not come back on in the morning before I harvested (I've seen people who swear by this and other who say it doesn't do anything but figured it couldn't hurt). At this point the other plants are pretty disappointing compared to Mumma so they aren't getting as much "love" lol.

🌱 Eternity Cup 2025 – Woche 6 Update 🔥 Unser Eternity Cup 2025 Grow, powered by Zamnesia & Plagron, geht in die nächste Runde! 🚀 Die Runtz Autoflowers unter der Evo 301 (Samsung Chips, 180W) zeigen jetzt deutliche Unterschiede – jede Pflanze entwickelt sich nach ihrem eigenen Tempo. 🌿 🔍 Setup & Entwicklung nach 6 Wochen: 🌿 #1 – 20L Topf, nicht getoppt, aber LST Diese Dame steht jetzt voll in der Blüte! 🌸 Dank des großen Topfes hat sie sich super entwickelt, schöne Buds setzen sich langsam an. Sie bleibt stabil und gesund – die LST-Methode zahlt sich aus! ✅ 🌿 #2 – 8L Topf, getoppt & LST Während die anderen zwei sich voll auf die Blüte konzentrieren, legt #2 nochmal ordentlich in die Breite zu! 📏 Das Topping und LST zeigen ihre Wirkung – die Pflanze bleibt kompakt, aber buschig. Die ersten Blütenansätze sind zu sehen, aber sie nimmt sich weiter etwas mehr Zeit. 🌱 🌿 #3 – 8L Topf, nicht getoppt, kein Training Genau wie #1 steht auch diese Pflanze voll in der Blüte! 🌸 Sie ist von Natur aus etwas höher gewachsen und beginnt jetzt, schöne Buds auszubilden. 🌱 Fazit nach Woche 6: Die ungetoppten #1 & #3 sind mitten in der Blüte, während #2 sich weiter in die Breite entwickelt und noch ein wenig hinterherhinkt. 🌱💪 Aber alle drei sind kerngesund, und es bleibt spannend zu sehen, ob sich das Wachstum von #2 am Ende durch höhere Buddichte auszahlt! ➡️ Wie wird sich der Blütenaufbau in den nächsten Wochen entwickeln? Bleibt #2 länger in der Vegi? Wir halten euch auf dem Laufenden! Stay tuned für Woche 7! 🔥 Update vom 25.02 die explodieren ich muss das Zelt wechseln maximal 1 Woche noch und sie kommen in das doppelt so große Zelt !!! Ich bin so Happy bitte schaut euch #1,#3 an das sind Autos #EternityCup2025 #Zamnesia #Plagron #GrowDiaries #RuntzAuto #Homegrow #CannabisCommunity

Progressing nicely. Topped on day 30. LST to shape her for flower tent. Plan to be pretty aggressive with the LST, first time I’ve bent the main stem. Video/photos taken 35 days after breaking soil.

C’è un’odore davvero forte!! Le piante vedo che stanno bene a livello di salute e nutrimento, inizio a calare le dosi per iniziare a lavare un po la pianta dai fertilizzanti accumulati, non ci dovrei mettere molto visto che ultimamente ho annaffiato sempre con EC abbastanza al minimo ovvero 1 . Per il resto molto bene, per fortuna non si stanno piegando molto i rami, un po per il training che gli ho fatto e anche perchè non sono cime enormi da far spezzare in due il ramo quindi in definitiva non va ne bene e ne male hahaha😂. Buona coltivazione a tutti!!

Fastbuds Meme Video Contest

Using iPhone XS for this journal. Can people please let me know what camera they are using. Also I would love any tips or suggestions. Thanks for watching.

Blütewoche 3

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553

Switched the autoflowers to another tent to give them 300 watts of led everything is growing fine

Veg Week 3 Day 21 to 27 - 4/17 to 4/23 A lot more to talk about this week. It's topping and transfer week. I started the week off (day 21exactly) by making sure I had at least 5 to 6 nodes of growth and topped P1 down to the 4th node and P2 down to the 2nd node as a test. (typically I top to the 3rd) I also removed all other node branches and fan leaves and usual. I left a large stump in my tops so the nodes can use it to grow around and help support the larger weight of a mature plant. I gave a couple of days of recovery while I hand spread the nodes daily to train the new waterways through the nodes. I changed my schedule and watered a day after and then transferred the plants into their forever pots/top watered in Feed this week was .5gal transfer and top feed at 100ppm total before add-ins. I used 100ppm Veg concentrate mix (recipe week 2) I then also added 1ml/gal of CaliMagic (General Hydroponics 1-0-0) and ph balance this week was for 6.2 Feed plan next week will be a final top feed of .5gallon and then turn the reservoir on. Videos: Topping and Transfer

Hola tod@s, pues aquí tenéis las RQS North Thunderfuck Como podéis ver en las imagenes están a tope, el resultado de las podas no puede haber sido mejor, plantas compactas con 3 - 4 colas principales, pues al hacer la poda apical las ramas inferiores han alcanzado la altura de las principales. Al final no las trasplante a 11l, no quería que se hiciesen demasiado grandes para que tuviesen más espacio entre ellas y así fomentar la circulación de aire para evitar el oidio, en los últimos días ha estado lloviendo y como os he comentado en otras entradas, a no ser que tengas una sala de cultivo con opticlimate o te hallas gastado mucho dinero en aislamientos y equipo, el clima de fuera afecta al interior también. Lo mejor es usar preventivos, así se evitan las sorpresas indeseadas. Pronto empezarán a asomar los primeros pistilos blancos, iré subiendo la EC poco a poco, en esta ocasión creo que podré subir un poco más, esta variedad es una comilona de cuidado, así que llegaré a los 1.9 - 2.0 de EC. Hace tiempo que buscaba una variedad que reaccionase así a las podas, al tener las ramas casi todas a la misma altura recibiran mucha más luz y más tratandose de iluminación LED que penetra menos que otro tipo de iluminaciones, lo cuál debe traducirse en una mejor producción. he realizado una última poda de bajos, ya no podré hacer más, para estimular el crecimiento de las ramas superiores, aparte en estas variedades de hoja tan ancha hay que quitar bastante, sin miedo, por la misma razón que comentaba antes de la penetración de luz. Espero que todo siga así y pronto empezarán a tener las primeras flores, saludos!!! 😃

Pineapple express With fruity lemon aroma and taste, the effect is strong, smooth and leads into cerebral high with uplifting mood. Thank for pineapple express the movie that leads me to grow this strain. Real good🤩

06/12: c'est le moment de commencer à compter les semaines de floraison. Arrosage ce matin qui a été suivi par une drôle de réaction de la part de la plante je n'arose que très peu depuis le début vus que c'est une automatique et aujourd'hui après deux jours de canicule et 3 jours depuis le dernier arrosage. Enfin voilà ce matin j'arrose et les feuilles deviennent tombante je me dit ok: attendons quelques heures voir ce qui se passe et je l'a retrouve dans une forme holympique. Mise quotidienne du LST. 06/13: arrosage 1L *engraisser 06/14: vague de chaleur. ... je sent que je vais vite devoir arroser de nouveau la chaleur et les ventilateurs et pot en geotextiles égale substrat qui sèche vite! 06/16: arrosage 1.2L (engraisser) 06/17: température extérieure 33*C température dans la box 30*C malgré cette vague de chaleur la wcc réagi plutôt bien on dirait qu'elle aime la chaleur et le vent plus que les vario. Que j'ai grow jusqu'à présent. 06/18: la temperature retombe sous les 30°C ouf temp. dans la +/-26° arrosage 1.5(AN ph Perfect grow pour corriger un manque d'azote + bud candy) (j33)

Esta ha sido una semana de intenso trabajo para las plantas a las que realicé poda apical y lst con un espacio de tiempo corto para la recuperación, pero respondieron genial. Parece que a esta variedad le puedes hacer cualquier cosa. Ni excesos ni carencias de nutrientes

Still having an issue with watering. They don't seem to be drinking as much as I thought... Sometimes it's 36-48 hours between waters, and yes I am watering til a little runoff dribble out.