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Day 30. Worried about running out of space. I have been tying the plant down perform LST which is helping. Only change in feeding schedule is I have reduced call mag from 5.0 Ml to 3.0 ML and have added big swell by aurora nutrient lines 2.0 ml
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@Dengued
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Day 42....plants looking healthy and starting to bud nicely. Still just feeding organic spirulina
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Sehr schöne Geste buds. Nicht all zu groß, aber das ist genau was ich für den Cup wollte, normal große, Feste buds voll mit Trichome und Terps die einfach wild sind. Zum Geschmack kann ich nichts sagen, nach der Mary Jane wird es eine review geben
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@nonick123
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Bienvenidos al diario de GG4 Sherbet FF patrocinado por FastBuds Muchas gracias a @Fast_Buds por enviarme estas semillas! Espero que tener una cosecha espectacular! He elegido esta genética porque en los diarios y en su ficha técnica se habla de fuerte resistencia a las bajas temperaturas, y este es un parámetro que no voy a poder controlar 05/10: Se coloca un semilla en vaso con agua filtrada (TDS 50 PPMs) + 3 gotas de agua oxigenada (H2O2) y se coloca en un lugar oscuro a 25 ºC durante 24 horas 06/10: Se prepara un maceta de 400 ml con sustrato Light Mix + 15% Coco + 10% Perlita Se humedece la maceta hasta escorrentía con agua filtrada (TDS: 50 PPMs) Se hace un agujero de 1 cm de profundidad, se coloca la semilla al azar en el agujero, se tapa con un poco de sustrato y se humedece ligeramente con agua en spray Se coloca la maceta en propagador con 4 luces LED, que arrojan 200 - 300 PPFD (no se encenderá el LED hasta que germine!)
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Tito's Living Soil Blueprint: Why You Can’t Treat Organics Like a Synthetic Hydro System. When transitioning from synthetic hydroponics to true organic cultivation, many growers bring their old habits with them. It is a common pitfall: pulling out pH pens, measuring runoff, and liquid-feeding heavy doses of organic nutrients as if the medium were sterile coco or rockwool. But living soil operates on an entirely different set of rules. To achieve the true potential of an organic garden, we must stop treating the soil as a mere holding tank for liquid chemicals and start viewing it as a self-sustaining biological engine. This will be a breakdown of why treating organic soil like a synthetic system fails, and how to shift ones methodology to unlock the true power of the soil food web. Pouring massive amounts of raw elements into a living system all at once is the biological equivalent of force-feeding a newborn a massive takeout meal and expecting them to digest it instantly. In an optimal system, soil should never be breaking down more than roughly 5% of its total composition as organic matter at any given time. The math is simple: more intense chemical and biological reactions equal more physical heat. If the root zone temperature creeps even remotely over 72°F, oxygen hypoxia sets in, drastically reducing plant growth. Organic rhizospheres and biological nutrient delivery require significantly more oxygen to maintain efficient parameters for growth—a reality that is drastically different from a pure synthetic approach where a complex rhizosphere is virtually non-existent. The fundamental blueprint of organic growing relies on Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC). The goal is to build a medium with so much CEC that it can store massive amounts of excess nutrients safely. This provides the necessary buffering capacity to handle large biological reactions, a process typically managed in the time period between grows. Once the soil is fully loaded and stabilized, the rhizosphere maintains its own pH balance, allowing the plant to dynamically feed itself directly from its massive, built-in storage of CEC. Treating Living Soil Like Coco creates a runoff-runaway trap. Applying a massive overdose of raw organic materials releases too many nutrients at once, leading to completely uncontrolled pH skewing. Running a synthetic-style management setup while simultaneously dumping organic inputs into the container does not make it an "organic" grow. Trying to judge a metric like pH after letting it run completely out of control with multiple simultaneous amendments is an uphill battle. Each input possesses unique chemical properties that drastically alter atomic decay chains and, consequently, pH. Without an adequate structural buffer, the medium experiences unpredictable swings. Put simply, the sheer volume of inputs rapidly outpaces the soil's built-in buffering capacity. Constantly reading the pH and Electrical Conductivity (EC) of input and output water in an organic soil is not true organic cultivation; it is just a synthetic indoor environment layout utilizing organic ingredients. This presents a distinct misunderstanding of how these two opposing approaches need to be separated. One cannot simply measure EC and pH to heavy runoff in a soil designed to store cations and expect to keep accurate tabs. Even when using 100% organic certified ingredients, liquid feeds, and compost teas, the underlying methodology matters most. Measuring runoff pH and EC treats an organic soil system like a synthetic coco or rockwool grow. In a high-CEC organic soil, a runoff reading is highly inaccurate. A soaring runoff reading of 8.0 is often just the water physically washing past raw amendments on its way out of the pot. It does not mean the actual root interface is locked out; it simply indicates that the soil ran out of immediate storage capacity for those heavy inputs. Synthetic growing relies entirely on direct nutrient delivery. Chemical salts are poured over the root system, the plant absorbs what it needs through basic osmotic pressure, and the excess is flushed away. True organic growing, however, relies on biological cycling. An organic soil should never be watered to heavy runoff, because doing so actively washes away the beneficial microbes, soluble humic acids, and organic buffers that the soil life works so hard to create to protect the root zone. Applying inputs as an immediate, massive overload of raw elements causes chaotic chemical spikes. Dumping heavy amendments directly into a big pot mid-grow triggers unpredictable reactions. In a true living soil system, amendments are added in tiny, balanced amounts long before the plant ever meets the dirt. This deliberate timeline allows the soil’s Cation Exchange Capacity to naturally "park" and buffer those nutrients. When inputs outpace the soil's ability to buffer them, the system breaks down, and the runoff pH screams. When faced with a fluctuating pH meter, a common reactive impulse is to throw agricultural sulfur at the problem. This is a classic example of trying to react mechanically to a digital number rather than letting the soil chemistry work. Elemental sulfur does not lower pH on contact. Soil microbes must first digest it and convert it into sulfuric acid. Because this biological process takes weeks or even months, adding it mid-problem yields no immediate change. This leads to the temptation to add even more. Weeks down the line, the cumulative sulfur will finally convert, causing the pH to crash violently and fry the root system. As a general rule, avoid using sulfur as a corrective knee-jerk reaction. If it is used at all, it should be applied strictly 2 to 3 weeks prior to flower as a precise, one-off addition to assist with Isopentenyl pyrophosphate synthesis. If a soil matrix is truly experiencing a severe alkaline lockout at a pH of 8.0, the new leaves at the very top of the plant will tell you directly by turning bright yellow while the veins stay dark green—the classic signature of alkaline drift and iron chlorosis. The solution is simple: put the pH meter away. Stop watering to heavy runoff. Only apply enough water to evenly moisten the soil matrix, and let natural inputs do their job to feed the microbes and naturally buffer the root zone. Electrical Conductivity (EC) dictates plant water and nutrient availability by altering the soil solution's osmotic potential. This potential controls whether a plant can efficiently pull water into its roots or if it will actually lose water to the surrounding soil. If a grower cannot control the rate of what is going in (the rate of nutrient release) and cannot control the rate of what is going out (the plant's dynamic growth), the immediate medium's EC deviates. When EC deviates, osmotic potential goes with it, disrupting bulk flow and the entire vascular transport system of the plant. Synthetic nutrient delivery relies on precise input measurements and an incredibly tight management of the wet-dry cycle to prevent the constant, violent spiking of EC caused by excess moisture loss. Reducing EC to a mere measurement of "food in and food out" oversimplifies its true function. It acts as a balance of electrical conductance that must be maintained to regulate the flow of water. Failing to acknowledge this is a severe disservice to the beauty and potential of a true rhizophagy cycle in all its respiratory glory. True organic cultivation does not actually begin until biological cycling is actively linked to hydrogen exudation from the roots. The vast majority of modern cultivation advice leaves growers completely in the dark regarding these biological mechanics. This is a product of market capitalism rather than basic chemistry. There are significantly lower profit margins for hydroponic companies when a grower uses ten times fewer mass consumables and relies on little more than water from seed to harvest. By shifting focus away from "feeding the straw" and moving it toward nurturing the near-infinite soil food web, the plant regains absolute autonomy over its own rhizophagy cycle. It begins regulating its own nutrient intake dynamically, without a single digital EC pen in sight. This allows the grower to focus entirely on optimizing the macro-environment rather than micromanaging the root zone. The cultivation medium can be reused indefinitely so long as you can prevent a buildup of carbon and nitrogen in the soil; cover that in a later week. To achieve a truly organic system that unlocks this rhizophagy cycle, the cultivation approach must shift entirely from feeding the plant directly to feeding the soil microbiome. Because the modern gardening community is heavily guided by synthetic methodologies, the subtle nuances and variations of this biological process are rarely highlighted. The hydroponic industry is fundamentally built on a recurring revenue model of bottled minerals, flush agents, and sterile mediums. Conversely, a self-sustaining living soil system requires minimal external inputs after its initial build. This shifts the grower's role from a rigid chemical manager to a biological custodian. Because managing biology requires observing subtle environmental factors—like consistent soil moisture, oxygenation, and temperature—rather than reading a digital screen, commercial entities scaled for automated, synthetic delivery often dismiss it as unpredictable. When the soil food web is fully unlocked, the plant takes the driver's seat, operating with a level of systemic efficiency that synthetic nutrient lines simply cannot replicate. In the commercial cultivation landscape, corporate structures are legally bound to protect shareholder interests and recurring profit margins, which often prioritize the sale of bottled consumables over the promotion of self-sustaining agricultural practices. Under modern industrial cultivation models, biology is too often treated as secondary to business. By stepping away from the meters, understanding Cation Exchange Capacity, and feeding the microbiome instead of the roots, you break free from the chemical cycle—allowing nature to do what it has perfected over millions of years. "When I was a child, I spoke as a child, I understood as a child, I thought as a child; but when I became a man, I put away childish things"
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@EaRtH
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2.2. - Seems like I'm still doing something wrong. My plants got more yellow. Watered 💧 4.2. - I've added and adjusted some wires. Also, I've decided to defoliate a bit...at least the most yellow parts. Buds are swelling and getting more frosty each day ❄️ 5.2. - Watered 💧 7.2. - I think that I am making the rookie mistake of underwatering and that's the cause of yellowing of plants closest to the LED. Let's hope it that ✌️ Watered 💧 8.2. - Week wrap-up: It seems like plants like more water. Buds are getting more fat and sugar coated each day ❄️ Also the smell got more strong and bit fruity when touching them 🍎 🍦 2.2. - 8.2.2024
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Week 21 Daylight 12h20 - 7h45/20h05 Unstable weather, alternating heavy rain and wind quasi every days and sunny afternoons. Moderate temperatures around 14°C min / 23°C max. Plants are safe in the veranda; the sun is lower on the horizon now and the angle of the light is now perfect for a good finish. I need to test the humidity level in the room but it seems reasonable. No signs of diseases or moisture. Last weeks were hard with multiple aggressions: plants are like War Veterans with some damage and scars. The flowering process look not affected by this episode and harvest is approaching. Brake Pad Breath: almost ready. Pistils are rusty colored, buds are thick and dense, firm and sticky. Subtle fruity aroma: tonic and stimulating. Most advanced plant: will be the first harvested soon. 2L watering / 2 days flowering booster finish + water flawless finish + water Flash Back #2: ending the flowering cycle and starting maturation. Last plant infested by insects, may be the plant is reacting by accelerating the flowering: buds are not so dense compare with the previous plant. Pretty spicy smell and good resin production. flowering booster finish + water flawless finish + water GMO x Zombie Kush: starting the last flowering stage. Recovering good and was less injured by caterpillar than the others. Pistils are long and the flowers will enlarge soon: need almost 3 or 4 weeks to be ready. Grower master flo + bud XL enzyme + pk 13/14 Royal Moby is tall and late flowering but seems producing lot of flower. With the stress the plant become hermaphroditic, I discovered some bag of males flowers. I hope there is no pollination between the other plants. Grower master flo + bud XL enzyme + pk 13/14
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@Little
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Semana 3 de crecimiento y parece que todo va un poco mejor. Las plantas tenían demasiada luz porque los leds estaban a muy poca distancia,. Creo que una de las plantas se llegó a quemar,¿Alguien lo puede confirmar? es la primera vez que lo veo. Aunque parece que poco a poco se va recuperando. Desde que las trasplanté sólo he regado un par de veces. Ahora he aumentado la distancia de la luz y espero que crezcan más fuertes. A partir de ahora empezaré con Top Veg. Por cierto! La AK que tenía el caparazón de la semilla pegado, ahí sigue. Y creo que es la que mejor va! Saludos y buenos humos!
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@RatmanJR
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July 5th. Day 42 post flip. Wanna start by saying happy 4th of July to all my American friends and to everyone out there. Unfortunately seeing some signs of what looks like nutrient toxicity. Did a long analysis of what I’ve been giving it and determined it’s been getting a boat load of calcium but not a whole lot of magnesium. This means for this weeks tea it’s getting nothing but recharge and some epsom salts. Was going to defoliate but I’m seeing a lot of Trichomes on the fan leaves so I’m actually going to leave as is. Buds are not the largest but the amount of bud sites and their density makes up for it. The smells coming off this thing are amazing and the concentration of globular Trichomes I’m seeing under magnification has me very excited about the potency of this strain. At this point because of the burn this will be my last tea of the grow. Going to let the microbes and left over matter finish the job for the next 4-5 weeks. God bless and happy growing everyone
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@Cannatech
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I like to defoliate well just before flower especially lower parts to expose bud sites so light gets trough and some larger top leaves but not too many so I don't shock the plant too much
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@Deli_Weed
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Van muy bien, engordando esas colitas, huele bien, un poco raro, los últimos días de esta semana pude reacomodar la planta para que reciba más luz, porque coseché la og kush y ya tengo mas espacio, también cambie los leds, tenia los viparspectra desde el inicio, esta semana le puse los phlizon y la verdad si vi mucha mejoría! 🤩
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everything in the second week of flower went well. she really stretched and the buds quickly started getting fat. also every watering i would notice a very strong odor of weed. december 22nd 2021: gaver her last half of gallon used in last feeding. also nothing was tested. ph tested at 6.6 last feeding and it usually comes out a little higher after a few days. january 1st 2022 i noticed the first trichomes.
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Not much to report this week. Going well, 4 more male growths. These girls are on autopilot for the next 4 or 5 weeks. Finally done the last big defoliation. I am happy with the amount of tips, I dont mind sacrificing a little size and quality for a potentially much larger yeild. No real stretch to be seen, I guess the scrog is to blame for that. A side note, I may have a little bit of a micro nutrient deficiency, iron in particular. I know this is rare but I did miss the iron last week, long story. Its presenting from the top down with choloris near the leaf base moving outwards. I also think I have a slight k abundance at this stage but the plant should take care of that as it begins to demand more.
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The end is near! These girls are maturing pretty quick, with the front plant looking ready for harvest tomorrow and the back plant less than a week after. Front is 95% cloudy with just a few reds here and there, while back is 70/30 cloudy/clear with no reds. Front buds are more elongated and thinner, while back buds are thicker and more compact looking. Both plants have nice solid buds already. Hardest part about this week has been watching them finish and NOT harvesting too early! Lowered the light by 10% just to help with heat management more than anything. With a few plants out of the tent the light is reflecting more off the walls and building a bit more heat. All good though, the end is in sight just gonna keep on doing my thing and let these girls cruise to the finish line.
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This week on a tale of two plants Plant A she is going very well. She is very sticky and tricone starting to turn milky have no issue with her and she smell amazing Plant b is feeding like crazy I water her at least 4 time a week I think that why she was delay maybe so I been making sure to keep on top of that her smell and getting stronger and she is getting thicker with tricones starting to produce
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@MistaOC
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Ich freue mich schon auf die ersten Rauchtests Geerntet im Zeitraum 23.01.-28.01. Kosten: Erde: 20,80€ Dünger: 40€ Wasser: 5€ Samen: 27,50€ Strom: 124,85€ _____________ Gesamtkosten: 218,15€ Ertrag 306,60g 0,71€ pro Gramm —————————————
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@CalGonJim
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7/14 4AM MONDAY MUST DEFOLIATE!!!!! I HAVE 4 INSTEAD OF 2...BECAUSE OF MY LITTLE ACCIDENT EARLY ON.. I WILL TAKE ONE OUT OF FLOWER AND RE-VEG TODAY!!!
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@Grow3rPT
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Total de dias 29 - 31/08/2021 ( Mais um dia e vou mudar para floração.) Faco 30 dias de vegetação Total de dias 30 - 01/09/2021 / Rega ( mudança de horário para 12/12 fase de Floração ) ( Fase de Pre-Floração ) Total de dias 31 (F 01) - 02/09/2021 Total de dias 32 (F 02) - 03/09/2021 / Rega com 1ml de Bloom Total de dias 33 (F 03) - 04/09/2021 Total de dias 34 (F 04) - 05/09/2021 / Rega apenas com agua Total de dias 35 (F 05) - 06/09/2021