Preflowers everywhere 😎 She went through a serious defoliation without any issue. She drinks a lot. Hopefully the stretch should be almost done, available height is limited and I don't want to dim the QuantumBoard, it is now at full strength, 320W so 110W per board. This OG looks promising!

Zdar Bando . Začínám 6 týden a holky nabírají hezký na objemu. Hnojím podle deníku 2ml/l od všeho a myslím si že už je to na hraně. Všechny dostávají stejně 3l akorát jedné se něco nezdá. Možná už je na ní moc hnojiva. O proti těm dvoum je pozadu a má menší paličky, při další zálivce změřím ec a uvidím, jestli bude velký rozdíl tak uberu něco na 1ml/l. Už se těším na výsledek 😁. Tak další hlášení za týden .

week intel: its time to harvest some of plants the ones that is mature enough. indica dominant plants will done first always so we should harvest them first because my base nutrients and one of boosters was salt based, i'll do flushing this week to get some relieve to plants in the last days stresses : flushing Drought stress via watering only one time with flushing this week feeding: day 1 : i flushed them with Advanced Nutrients Flawless finish and adjusted ph day 3 : no more feeding from now on day 5 : no more feeding from now on guide of the week : i harvest in 2 parts : first i harvest top of the branches and will let the lower buds to ripe another week then ill harvest the second wave. indica dominant plants will get done 1 or 2 weeks sooner than sativa dominant plants that will often takes more than 8 weeks so be aware to harvest them sooner. my dry and cure style is this: 3 days of hanging upside down to get water activity lower to around 0.6 in 50% humidity and 26 C temp (i know its a little high but we are in a hot summer right now and i cant get it lower even with air conditioner) and then after 3 days of drying i remove leaves and stalks, trim buds and move them to jar for the rest of their life :D . and in the first 4 days of curing i open the jar door and let hem get some fresh air in the jar for about 5 minutes and close the jar door again, after 4 days of curing like that buds are smokable but they will get better as they getting cured about 1 month. im happy as hell with this harvest :D.

Day 22 - her takeoff has begun a. the lady is doing well, growing all over, no signs of any damage or light stress b. i have to keep reminding myself that this Indica plant is only 22 days old c. the pool is hanging at 5.9/6.0 PH all the time. d. I will not be topping, fimming or high stress training this plant as the breeder recommends e. lowered the light is at 45cm away from the seedling f. added reflector tape to the top of the DWC, my main DWC has it, and its plants always do amazing, so why the hell not reflector tape this one Day 23 - Growth Explosion a. she is really taking off, like a rocket! b. she is becoming more and more bushy, smells too, really good c. the reflective tape on top of the DWC changes my photos, lol, it allows for a-lot of light reflection and eye pain Day 24 - performed light defoliation a. opened up the lower parts of the plant for light b. only removed 8 leaves, will remove more in a few days to allow for no runt branches c. also removed some of the original stabilizer rocks... when she was a tiny baby she was very leggy and needed support, she has thick stem now! d. airflow is opened up and the fan is blowing more direct on the gorilla e. gradually stepping up the ppm, at 550. only have to increase FloraMicro and FloraGro Day 25 - growth observed all over a. lower limbs that were hidden by leaves are perking up, and heading outward b. airflow around the plant is great, the CO2 production is very high, as the tent smells of banana liquor c. ventilation is turned off to preserve humidity and CO2 Day 26 - growth a. smooth and steady, she is drinking alot from the DWC, about 1/2 litre a day b. removed 2 large fan leaves, the lower limbs need to see light Day 27 - lower growth occurring now a. the lower foliage and branches are growing more since they see more light b. performed the last defoliation for a while, encouraging the side branches to take dominance over the main without topping this plant Day 28 - ending the week on a high note! a. she grew nearly 2x over night, opening her up to the light was a huge help b. with these smaller LED lights im guessing light penetration through thick indica leaves is very low, leaftucking helps c. will begin ponytailing LST next week to encourage more lateral branch growth d. today though, she is just chillin out in the 28 degrees and 60% humidity, ventilation is running, and she is smelling very nice

Super impressed with the resilience, the yield, and the smoke from this strain. Finished earlier than expected, yielded more than expected and hits harder than expected. Surprised and delighted. Thanks for this Dutch Passion. This was my lockdown harvest and I couldn't be more stoked!

Week 6 of flower. Buds are filling out more now. Still occasional rainy days but weather is improving.

This girl is SO FROSTY, unfortunately due to careless mistakes on my part her growth appears to have stunted. Either way I'm very pleased with the phenotypical expression in this plant, definitely good genetics that I will be taking another shot at next grow.

If someone could tell me why it had a slight deformation that it would be great. To wet? Maybe I planted it too shallow because I was overthinking camera shots? It would have been fine to plant normally in the soil, oh well next time. Ph was stable, soil is not normal sorta of a compost coco core/chunk, with worm castings.

Stardog room it is looking pretty good and is thriving. Hopefully get the results we asking for. Aya room up to now is giving pretty impressive results and it looks like they like the enviroment even tho its not fully equiped. After adding the c4 neet to celan the insides a little bit more and see how it will react.

420 Fastbuds Week 3 Gorilla Zkittlez Auto All in all this week has been good. Look past the plants being a little droppy the lights just turned on when taking the pics. Plus I did a defoliation taking most fan leafs off them allowing the lower branches to receive more light. Started seeing a couple rust spots so I'll add a little cal-mag maybe with the next feeding. Happy Growing

Week 22 Since I've removed the last Biotab the leaves have slowly start to turn more and more yellow. The buds are in the final stage of hardening out as you can see on the photos. In the beginnings of my grow adventures I was always focused on the percentage of orange to white pistils to determine their ripeness now I'm looking for that greyish look as if they suddenly turned into solid fruits that differentiate from the rest of the branch. For the last days I could mostly put my light on 100% strength. And even the difference in bud density between now (day 152) and yesterday is quite amazing.

Vamos familia, hoy se actualiza una semana más , 2 semana de floración cumplida, y no veáis qué ritmo están cogiendo estás Purple OG Kush de Dutchfem. Están bien sanas su crecimiento es vigoroso y el desarrollo de las flores progresa adecuadamente. No me puedo quejar de nada la verdad. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Las maximas de temperatura no superan los 26 grados y las mínimas no bajan 20, así que no me puedo quejar. Los niveles de humedad también son los correctos van entre 50%/65% de humedad relativa. Por supuesto el Ph lo estamos dejando alrededor de 6. Hasta aquí es todo, buenos humos 💨💨💨

Feed log; D:23 - 320ml - Si,[0ml],Ca/Mg,[+0.266 EC & +0.192 EC],[pH 6.0],[0.508 EC], Foliar: 10.4 - Si,[0.1ml],Vega[0.4ml], pH[6.0],[0.814 EC] Previous irrigation: D:21 The girls have put on some nodes since last update; they are coasting under 450 - 500 PAR, have to shuffle them because of space constraints. Also haven’t spotted any roots coming through the drainage holes yet 👍

5 weeks since flip. Switched from house and garden to jacks321, had some salt build up so flushed medium w some drip clean, got ppms down to 950-1000 from 1600. Everything is comin along pretty well.

Sorte: Voodoo von Wizard Trees (3x) Status: Vegiphase Toppen & Umtopfen abgeschlossen! ✂️🌱 📊 Umweltbedingungen & Setup Beleuchtung: GC Pure 💡 Abstand: ca. 65 cm Temperatur: 23 °C 🌡️ Konstant & optimal Luftfeuchtigkeit (RLF): 60 % 💧 Luftbefeuchter aktiv Gießwasser pH: 6,2 pH Töpfe: 20L Stofftöpfe ? Frisch umgetopft 📏 Pflanzenhöhe Tracker Pflanze / Phäno Voodoo Phäno 1 32 cm Einmal getoppt ✂️ / Buschig & vital Voodoo Phäno 2 33 cm Einmal getoppt ✂️ / Buschig & vital Voodoo Phäno 3 38 cm Einmal getoppt ✂️ / Spitzenreiter 🚀 📝 Wochenbericht & Notizen  Topping: In dieser Woche wurde die letzte Dame getoppt. Damit sind jetzt alle 3 Voodoos von Wizard Trees einmal getoppt worden ✂️. Alle bilden fleißig neue Triebe aus und scheinen richtig Bock zu haben!  Umtopfen: Heute wurden die Voodoo-Damen umgetöppelt 🌱. Ab jetzt dürfen sie ihre neuen 20L Stofftöpfe komplett durchwurzeln 💪🏻.  Wurzelbild: Das Wurzelbild aller 3 Damen war absolut Top 👍🏻.  Bewässerung: Direkt mit auf 6,2 pH angepasstem Wasser angegossen 💦. Jetzt bekommen sie ein paar Tage Ruhe, um sich zu erholen und einzuleben 🏆. Mal schauen, wie es in den nächsten Tagen weitergeht! 💚 #WizardTrees #Voodoo #Growdiaries #VegPhase #Stofftöpfe

So far my confidence in this next go around is very high! 😃☀️ Putting the seeds straight into a jiffy pellet is the way I am going to proceed with germination going forward. You are just adding extra variables to what should be a simple equation (seed in sterile medium + warmth + moisture = seedling) unlike with the paper towel method, where you need to transfer them to the medium. But this is just one opinion of a rookie grower.

End of Week 12 (Fifth week of flower) The ladies are smelling reDANKulous and are so frosty and sticky I can't remove fan leaves without getting my hands sticky. Next level terpene profiles. I did a final increase in CO2 to 1500ppm. The main top-sites are taking shape. I have been keeping a cooler average temperature - and also keeping the relative humidity lower. Pest Report: None

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).