End of week 7. Great week. Big plants. Smell is so strong, diesel and incredibly powerful turpentine. Really fast Strain to grown. Flushing started, should be a big harvest when done. Thanks everyone, I show my grows on YouTube also, Crystal Garden

been awhile... gee, idk how long been in jars now.... anyways, was playin around with the microscope yesterday, and made a little video... i called it :Red the Video:) just wanted to share some final thoughts .... this is pure medicinal, with no brain altering component ... this is for ppl (workers, military, emt, children, etc) who need to keep a clear head with full high dose of thc/cbd for medical problems... this has - kill cancerous cells if administered correctly...... ........ this is now my go-to medicinal strain...... 👍😎

Good plant

Привет садоводы вот и заканчивается история с Strawberry Chemdawg OG я остался очень доволен , мне понравилось какой она выросла очень хорошая генетика очень плотные цветы, легкий маникюр,очень сладкий запах Красавица опять выросла Благодарность SSSC за предоставленный генетический материал { Ребята вы супер ! } И благодарность всем, кто следил за этой историей !

pbk has started a little stretch shes started to grow well will be keeping her on calmag and silicon for the next week or 2 untill can see signs of flowers appearing stripped some of her nodes and didn't effect her sshes getting 2l every 2days and is starting to ask for more nothing else to report thanks for reading happy growing guys

Settimana 13 Giovedi 15/12/2022 Per livello acqua bassa inizio controllo 2870ec ph 5.8 aggiungiamo 36 lt acqua demineralizzata 4 lt rubinetto (40lt) 32 ml Grow 64 ml Micro 96 ml Bloom 40 ml enzimi 40 gr mega bud 16 gr silicate 20 ml calmagpro Ottenendo ec 2935 ph 6 Domenica 18/12/2022 Per livello acqua bassa inizio controllo ec 3999 ph 5.8 Aggiungiamo 30lt demineralizzata riportando l'ec a 2524 ph 5.9

Started my first round of topping this week. The Gold Leaf is looking healthy.

DAY 27, most of the plants are flowering, LST works so well. I'm worried because some of them seems to have advance, I don't think the buds should be that big for their age, maybe the heat stress made them flowering faster ? Moreover, some plants have their lower leaves turning yellow, I don't know what it is, give them nutrients once every 2 watering and I'm being very light with the amount of nutrients. Ordered 2 cooltubes, one for each light, it will help to cool down the room, gotta pick them up at the store and use them today. DAY 33, I followed your advices guys and added a bit of each nutrients for their deficiencies, don't know exactly if it was Ca, Mg or N deficiency but I can tell how better they are ! Water pH between 6,2 and 6,5 with 3acid down, hygro 55%. Because of the lower hygro for flowering stage, temp is going higher, I'll try my best to take care of them because another heat wave is coming... Thinking about reducing the light time to 12/12

Still waiting… the flowers are growing and some tricomes getting cloudy.

buds fatten up now, The hydro plant is destroying the soil completely, the buds are 3x as big lol. i started this grow during the cold winter temperatures, thats why everything got slowed down a few weeks. i expect to harvest withing 2-3weeks from here.

Erste Woche Blüte das wird super.

18.6.2k24 ✅💚 23.6. - Low stress for a stronger peak

now im start to using many kind of sugar till harvest, beer-fpj-molasses-coconut water...

Harvested after 3 days flush and two days night after recommended 9 weeks. Got 2 phenos. One better and more representative of the strain description which i kept a clone of to S1 and stabilize. As usual uploading here is a pita it didnt upload my videos again really annoying, but pics show the better strain is stronger bramches, stretchier, and better buds. I cut them in the video so no one cries i didnt harvest lol. Smell is from sourish sweet to sweet and mossy like a green slurpy or something. 6 week testers were potent and frosty already so i cant imagine after proper harvest and cure.

15.06.25. Day 30. Plants are looking healthy. Lots of growth in past week. She is showing preflower so I switched to flowering nutrients. First reservoir change out since I placed them into buckets. One plant topped herself because of rapid growth, I did not pull back training wire on main node and so the branch snapped where it was tied down. She is entering stretch now so I took of training wire on all plants. 18.06.25. Day 33! Defoliation, lilipop.

Bonjour à tous les padawans et les maîtres jedis Le LST est fini mon tronc en forme de colonne vertébrale fais un tour sur lui meme (vidéo jour32) cette forme me satisfait pleinement je décide donc de retirer la majorité des fil de fer servant au LST Le pincage d'Apex offre à la plante une canopé homogène (photo jour 32 34) Jour33 arrosage avec 2 litres d'eau ph6 à laquelle j'ajoute 0.5ml de topmax biobizz (dosage très léger pour ne pas provoquer un lock-out) cela favorisera son entrée en floraison. J'effectue une légère defolliation pour permettre une meilleure pénétration lumineuse aux apexs du bas. Quesque la defolliation ? LES CULTIVATEURS AMATEURS, PRENEZ GARDE, MAIS NE PRENEZ PAS PEUR La défoliation consiste à retirer les feuilles des plants de cannabis en intérieur afin d'accroître le rendementfinal. Le cultivateur amateur doit faire preuve de vigilance lorsqu'il commence à appliquer cette technique de taille. Malgré le débat sans fin entre ceux qui prônent cette technique et ceux qui la dénigre, il n'y aucune raison pour qu'un amateur ne s'y essaie pas afin de voir si ça lui convient ou non. COMMENT DÉFOLIER Que vous tailliez les feuilles ou les branches des plants de cannabis, il vaut mieux utiliser un sécateur stérile qui est confortable en main. Arracher des feuilles à la main manque de finesse et engendre souvent par accident, l'arrachement des couches d'une tige en plus de la feuille. L'objectif principal de la défoliation est de permettre une meilleure pénétration de la lumière et de promouvoir la production de plus grosses têtes. Les feuilles éventails qui font de l'ombre doivent être retirées. Tailler la tige principale et/ou les pousses secondaires n'est pas de la défoliation. La règle d'or lorsque vous donnez à vos plantes un rafraîchissement est de commencer avec les feuilles nourricières les plus grandes et les plus larges, en taillant du bas vers le haut. Il est important de retirer les feuilles stratégiquement et non pas au hasard. Pensez également qu'il vous faut limiter votre rafraîchissement à approximativement 10 à 20 % des feuilles totales de votre pied. Il est très facile de s'emporter durant la taille et de se retrouver avec des plantes chauves. Un excès de taille de feuilles empêchera la photosynthèse et paralysera vos plants. QUAND FAUT-IL DÉFOLIER Il est assez rare d'appliquer la défoliation comme seule technique pour obtenir un fort rendement. La taille des feuilles est généralement associée à d'autres méthodes de tailles et de palissage pour un meilleur rendement telles que le topping ou étêtage, le FIMming, le LST, le manifolding, le supercropping et le ScrOG. Les cultivateurs utilisant la méthode ScrOG auront besoin de retirer toutes les croissances inférieures ainsi que les feuilles et les tiges se trouvant sous le filet. Les plants de cannabis peuvent être défoliés dès lors qu'ils sont passés de la phase de plantule vers la phase de croissance végétative. Cependant, il est recommandé aux cultivateurs amateurs de laisser aux plantes 1 à 2 semaines de croissance végétative avant de s'attaquer à la défoliation de celles-ci. De plus, certaines variétés sont plus sensibles à la taille que d'autres et de ce fait, seront plus stressées par la taille des feuilles. Surveillez minutieusement le comportement de vos plants après la taille. Une période de convalescence de minimum 3 à 7 jours avant de recommencer la défoliation est fortement recommandée pour éviter trop de stress aux plants. Les cultivateurs peuvent également défolier pendant la phase de floraison, ce qui permettra à l'énergie de la plante d'être concentrée vers la production de têtes tout en limitant l'ombre et l'excès d'humidité. Néanmoins, il est important de ne pas défolier trop tard sous peine de simplement blesser ses plants inutilement. LES AVANTAGES DE LA DÉFOLIATION Évidemment, l'avantage numéro un de la défoliation, c'est l'augmentation du potentiel de rendement de cette technique de taille pour tous types de cannabis allant de la photopériode aux variétés autofloraison. Ce n'est pas un secret que les fleurs qui reçoivent plus de lumières deviennent plus grandes et larges que celles dissimulées dans l'ombre des feuilles. De plus, retirer les feuilles intérieures des plants touffus aide à prévenir toutes menaces de moisissure. Les plants très feuillus avec un feuillage intérieur dense produiront une quantité importante de têtes pop-corn. Dans le pire des cas, les branches de têtes et les têtes qui sont denses succomberont au pourrissement. Si vous observez des gouttes d'eau se former sur la surface des feuilles, il est grand temps de penser à faire de la défoliation. Libérer la zone inférieure et médiane des feuilles est un excellent moyen d'améliorer la circulation de l'air. LES DÉSAVANTAGES DE LA DÉFOLIATION Les plants de cannabis en intérieur bénéficient de la défoliation pour deux raisons. La première est parce qu'ils reçoivent la lumière d'une source stationnaire au-dessus d'eux, et la deuxième est parce que les conditions environnementales sont contrôlées par le cultivateur et non Mère Nature. Les plants d'extérieurs eux, n'y gagnent pas beaucoup, car les cas échéants se vérifient pour eux. Le soleil traverse le ciel, illuminant sur sa route, différentes portions de la plante de son lever à son coucher. Les cultivateurs en extérieur n'ont pas besoin de manipuler les plantes afin qu'elles se développent en adoptant une structure plate puisque le soleil est infiniment plus puissant que n'importe quelle lampe de culture et qui plus est, il est toujours en mouvement. Tailler les feuilles des plants extérieurs les rend également plus vulnérables aux conditions humides et brise leurs barrières naturelles contres les nuisibles. De nombreux cultivateurs d'intérieur peuvent, et malheureusement, c'est souvent le cas, réduire le rendement final à cause d'une défoliation faite au mauvais moment et/ou excessive. Tailler les plantules n'est pas conseillé et engendre souvent des plants nains. Scalper les plants matures est encore pire, et au lieu d'obtenir de longues branches de têtes, vous obtiendrez probablement encore moins de fleurs. De même, tailler des plants malades ou en mauvaise santé à n'importe quelle période de la croissance risque de paralyser la croissance plutôt que d'encourager la formation de fleurs denses. Que la force soit avec vous 💪

Just got my new lamp, happy to show the love my plants been getting :)

"Mens Dei" What can be made to expand, airy and loose, can also be made to contract, dense and tight. Trichomes do not discriminate, although we like to think of trichomes' primary purpose as being to get us high; they are there to provide photoprotection (sunscreen). Trichomes apply themselves based on area dimensions; the more area = the more trichomes in order to protect. Different from density: Trichomes, the resinous glands on plants, are often produced in response to stress, including high light intensity. This increased production can lead to denser trichome coverage on the plant, stress, stress, stress, stress is the signal. There is a certain beauty in watching the large water-filled buds once swollen to the brim slowly shrink during drying, as the surface areas contract, the trichomes just cluster up to form denser and denser coatings, already dense from high light intensities, UVB exposure, and IPS, and every other stressor I could tweak. Trichomes, the resinous glands on cannabis plants, are often produced in response to various forms of stress. These stresses can be environmental, like excess light(HIL) or UV-B radiation, temperature fluctuations, or drought, or mechanical, such as wind, pruning, or even the weight of the plant's own buds. The plant reacts to these stressors by increasing trichome production as a defensive mechanism to protect itself and its valuable compounds like THC and CBD. In essence, cannabis plants perceive stress as a threat and respond by producing more trichomes as a way to protect themselves and their valuable compounds. Several studies have shown this. Not so much a "master" grower as a master of stress. Psssst. Trichomes fill with "antioxidants," including THC. Ant"ox"idants, The production of antioxidants in plants is intricately linked to their oxidative apparatus. The plant has limited oxidative capacity/apparatus. During daytime photosynthesis, a large percentage of that oxidative capacity is tied up in protecting the plant. During the night, plants alter their metabolic pathways. This leads to a far more focused production of specific antioxidants, like THC. Plants also produce antioxidants during the day to scavenge ROS made from photosynthesis. The differential ROS production by blue and IR light can have significant biological consequences. For example, high levels of ROS induced by blue light can lead to cell damage and death, while lower levels of ROS produced by IR light may be involved in beneficial cellular signaling pathways. Long nights under the IR (very low ROS), the boost in cellular respiration, and the boost in energy production. In a perfect world, I'd give the plant a shock treatment of 60DLI in 4 hours and give her the other 20 hours to perform cellular respiration under IR. The stress of those 4 hours would be rigorous and full of stress abound, 1800-2000ppm CO2 is easy for a couple of hours during daylight, it's maintaining it that's hard, but 4 hours is very doable with nothing but a little extra "carbon sugar" in your medium every other night during the first 4 weeks of flower. In my opinion, you only need to jack CO2 for those first 4 weeks of flower to see maximal output, after that it's all about trichome preservation, everything else comes second. Without the temps to assist with metabolism, CO2 is reduced to normal levels along with temps 4-5th week of flower. Buds are primarily composed of water. Developing flower buds, like other plant tissues, require a significant amount of water for growth and turgor pressure, which helps maintain their structure and firmness. Turgor pressure in plant cells is primarily generated by osmosis, but transpiration plays a crucial role in maintaining it. The optimal internal leaf surface temperature for photosynthesis at 1800-2000ppm CO2 is likely in the upper range of 97°F, meaning ambient would need to sit at 102°F-ish or thereabout for full metabolic utilization. That's putting your transpirational pulling force x5 x6 maybe x7 of what it would be if she were cruising at 68F. "My buds won't fatten, what can I do!!" Crank it. If your purpose was to blow up a balloon as fast as you can, as much as you can, would you use 2x force or x5 Force to do so? Bad analogy, but you get the idea. Kiss. Optimize photosynthesis & VPD by day, cellular respiration by night. TECHNICALLY: "While transpiration and cellular respiration are both ongoing plant processes, they are not neatly separated into day and night. Both processes occur both day and night, though at different rates and with different emphasis. Transpiration, the release of water vapor from plant surfaces, is primarily driven by sunlight and photosynthesis during the day, but it also continues at a lower rate at night. Cellular respiration, which provides energy for the plant, occurs continuously, both day and night. " A leaf can perform cellular respiration and photosynthesis simultaneously. During daylight hours, plant cells utilize both processes: photosynthesis to produce glucose and oxygen, and cellular respiration to break down glucose and release energy for the cell's needs. The products of photosynthesis (glucose and oxygen) are used as reactants in cellular respiration, while the products of cellular respiration (carbon dioxide and water) can be used in photosynthesis. The limiting factor is the oxidative capacity; the less a leaf is utilizing photosynthesis, the less oxidative capacity it uses, and the more it can perform cellular respiration. Even if a leaf is not in an optimal photosynthetic position, it can still utilize respiration to its full capacity during daylight hours. Kinda too much info to explain when some asks if they should defoliate or not, yeah add calmag or some shit. BUT Only 10% ATP can be processed through photosynthesis and carbon capture. 90% of ATP is processed when the plant's oxidative capacity becomes available (NIGHTTIME). Cellular respiration relies on the process of oxidation to generate energy. Specifically, the final stage of cellular respiration, called oxidative phosphorylation, utilizes oxygen as the final electron acceptor to produce a substantial amount of ATP, the cell's primary energy currency. Factors such as oxygen concentration, glucose availability and temperature will all impact the amount of aerobic respiration an organism will perform. See you next grow, *twiddles thumbs*

Coming to the finish line. Not sure if the plant really got better after the lockout, it is running without nitrogen so yellowing/losing leafs is to be expected anyway. Planning to chop in exactly 10 days.