Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

She has been in the greenhouse OUTSIDE for about 10 days now. I do have supplement lighting and air circulation in there. Running 2 450 watt advertised full spectrum tripple led cobs with an 120 watt true draw per unit. So 240 watts from the plug in the green house. I run them as supplemental on cloudy days and an hour or 2 before complete sunset. I have began flushing towards the end of this week. She was fed 1/4 strength nutes DAILY up to this point. Now only TPS signal and molasses to flush her with. I plan for a 10-14 day flush. The last 4-5 days i will drop the molasses and run straight TPS signal and ph tap water. I am now begining to see the swell towards the end of this week....i am happy about that! I hope those calyxes get nice and fat during this flushing. So far so good.....she has taken to the green house well!

Nice and steady growth. Once I watered I can leave the ladies alone for a few days without having to be affraid of any problems. I'm still picking leaves when they are blocking any buds, but thats all I'm doing.

This one took a longggg time to finish, i ended ip harvesting at the end of 11 weeks. the best way to describe the end smell is grape and pinesol, its very aromatic even at 3 weeks post harvest. incredible terpene profile

Пришлось повозится с капельным поливом,из-за того,что не менял предфильтр - забились капельницы,пришлось исправлять в неудобном положении тела,но всё сделал,полив снова в рабочем состоянии. Всё так-же подвязываю проволокой шишки,начинают падать под своим весом,по листу свитч раз в 10 дней,патока+триходерма+аминокислоты раз в неделю под корень. К слову,указал удобрения канна,на самом деле это мои удобрения из обычных солей,как кальциевая селитра,магниевая селитра и тд. замес делаю сам себе,нужно будет,покажу фото пофасованных сухих удобрений + ко всему магнитная мешалка,которой замешиваю.

Week 10 , pH Perfect Connoisseur Bloom Part A ( 1 ml/L ) pH Perfect Connoisseur Bloom Part B ( 1 ml/L ) CarboLoad Liquid ( 2 ml/L ) Sensi Cal-Mag Xtra ( 2 ml/L ) Sensizym ( 2 ml/L ) Bio-Heaven ( 2 ml/L ) Overdrive ( 2 ml/L) Nirvana (2 ml/L)

Video con algunas impresiones sobre los problemas que estamos teniendo con los grows desiguales en su fenotipo.

5/20 I'm in love 😍 the leaves are lime green only because of the frost lmao this plant is ridiculous and Iam so looking forward to where this plants headed. This one bud in the middle is looking more and more purple each day. If the flower from this plant is what I'm hoping it to be, I will definitely be keeping this in my garden, which would be a first. I also never had intentions to do that or medical intentions to be more specific, up until now. Hopefully this will be my first, last keeper 5/22 gave her a tbsp of terp tea 5/26 end of the week 3 flower. She's starting to chunk and gain bud structure. The next four weeks will be

Still doing foliar: Cal-Mag Terra Aquatica, Pro Bloom, and silicate from T.A. some plants are removed because of root root. naw left with 19/24 plants. I also use a mobile app to set the light intensity, and I burned the leaves later. Which gave me the knowledge that the application is not very accurate.

This week went pretty well, other than she stretched like crazy and I am now getting worried about running out of vertical space. I also had a few of my bottom leaves get a few brown and yellow spots on them. I did post some pics and asked a question, thank you for the responses, much appreciated! I am thinking about adding my Spyder Farmer LED 100 Watt light into the tent for the nebula auto because it is about 23 inches shorter than the sour diesel. I believe it would only raise my temp about 2 degrees, and possibly lower the humidity by one or two percent. I must say my dehumidifier has been a freaking stud, running 24X7 and not complaining. I should look into adding another unit, it has been in the mid 90's and muggy for about a week. So far I have to say I am super impressed and excited with this setup, the genetics, and with growing this wonderful plant in general. Already planning ahead to my next grow, and what I can do better. I have been enjoying myself and I really appreciate everyone who has taken the time to answer my questions! I am having a blast and am excited to see what this lady will give up in a few weeks!

Had a little hint of root rot the other day so I’ve been adding Hydrogen peroxide. I took off a few fan leaves and increased light power 5%. Everything is going ok.

Bienvenidos cultivadores de marihuana clandestinos y también a los que tienen la fortuna de no serlo!🖐️👨‍🌾👍 Este es un diario semanal de técnicas de cultivo y Bio preparados orgánicos caseros, los cuales llevo experimentando dos años en cultivos de marihuana interior. Esta semana dos en uno: 1) ELABORACIÓN DE AUXINAS EN POLVO EXTRAIDAS DE ALUBIAS NEGRAS GERMINADAS. La primera vez que hice este preparado y lo publiqué en GD fue en Octubre de 2019, lo volví a hacer en Junio de 2020 y llevo dos años usándolo, me ha costado el precio de 2kg de alubias negras. INGREDIENTES: - 1kg de alubias o frijoles negros, porque son las semillas que más concentración de auxinas contienen, comparándolas por ejemplo, con lentejas o cualquier otro tipo de leguminosas, también se puede usar granos de maíz. Preferentemente, se deben usar semillas de alubias nuevas y cultivadas cerca de tu zona. - Agua pura. PROCEDIMIENTO: - Se cubren las alubias con agua y se dejan a remojo durante una noche. - Al día siguiente se separa el agua. Esta agua la puedes usar para riegos, contienen varios minerales. - Se mantiene la humedad en el recipiente de las alubias por unos días, hasta que germinen. Se pueden cubrir con un paño húmedo y compensar la perdida de humedad rociando agua. Se debe observar que la mayoría de las semillas hayan germinado. - Cuando las alubias, en su mayoría estén germinadas, se añade unos dos litros agua pura y se bate todo. - Ahora filtramos con malla y escurrimos los restos sólidos. (Reservamos esta materia para un segundo lavado) - Dejamos reposar el líquido durante dos días, hasta que se vea acumulación de materia en el fondo. - Retirar la mayor cantidad posible de agua clara. - Dejar al sol cubierto con una malla, hasta la completa deshidratación del producto. - Moler y guardar en un sitio seco y oscuro, en estas condiciones puede ser efectivo durante años. -- A los residuos sólidos recuperados del primer filtrado, les añado agua, los bato y los filtro con doble malla, lo embotello y guardo en el frigorífico (no más de 15 días, pues fermenta), lo uso para mezclas de riego. Los residuos finales se aprovechan, para aquellos que tengan tierra en exterior o hagan compost. QUE SON LAS AUXINAS Y USOS: - Las auxinas son un grupo de hormonas vegetales naturales, que regulan varios aspectos del desarrollo y crecimiento de las plantas, en la marihuana sobre todo en el periodo de crecimiento vegetativo y en el comienzo de la floración, después no hacen falta. - Uno de los aspecto más característicos es el efecto que causan en el desarrollo del crecimiento radicular, promoviendo sobre todo la formación de raíces secundarias y adventicias gracias a la estimulación celular que provocan las hormonas. - Otro aspecto de las auxinas es que distribuye su energía principalmente al ápice primario, reprimiendo el desarrollo de las ramas laterales, lo que provoca dominancia apical, pero esto es en el caso de plantas de marihuana sin corte apical y donde se quiere conseguir un cogollo principal monstruoso, su uso puede dar muy buenos resultados en cultivos SOG... pero ¿Qué pasa si hacemos un corte apical para promover el crecimiento de ramas laterales y que por ende, de buenos cogollos en cada una de ellas? Cuando se hace un corte apical al ápice principal las hormonas se reorganizan por la planta, ahora para mandar energía a todas las ramas y sus ápices, promoviendo el crecimiento!.. es un buen momento, después de un corte apical, aplicar auxinas para potenciar el proceso. - Finalmente os dejo un gráfico de la actuación de las auxinas en las diferentes etapas de un cultivo, también se ve la importante relación con otras hormonas (Citoquininas o Ácido Giberélico) y los nutrientes claves que no deben faltar para finalizar todo el proceso hormonal. Las Citoquininas y el ácido Giberélico naturales se encuentra en el agua de coco, y es muy interesante conocer como actúan, en la quinta semana de este diario hablo sobre las propiedades del agua de coco. Bien, una vez dicho lo anterior, yo uso las auxinas en polvo de las siguientes formas. - Como mezcla del sustrato donde germino las semillas y donde mantengo las plántulas hasta el trasplante a la maceta definitiva, para potenciar el enraizamiento. - Por la misma razón, lo espolvoreo sobre el cepellón de raíces de la plántula, en el momento del trasplante a la maceta final. - Lo uso como enraizante de esquejes, impregnando el tallo de polvo antes de enterrarlo. - 10 días después de realizar el producto, todavía tenía en la nevera un litro de auxinas líquidas, provenientes del segundo lavado de los restos de las alubias molidas... y entonces pensé que sería buena idea incorporarlo a un fermentado, y de aquí vienen esta segunda parte... 2) LACTO FERMENTO DE AUXINAS ENRIQUECIDO CON NUTRIENTES Y MINERALES En esta ocasión, para la fermentación anaeróbica, elegí hacerlo con suero de leche como base de microorganismos (Ácido láctico, Bacterias Acidolácticas BAL y Lactobacillus) que harán el trabajo de solubilizar los nutrientes y quelatar los minerales, es un preparado muy eficiente para riegos y aplicaciones foliares, en este caso lo hice enriquecido, mezclando diversos materiales orgánicos con otros minerales. Puedes ver la lista arriba. Sobre esto tengo que decir que después de dos años haciendo diferentes lacto fermentos, ahora los hago más específicos, sin mezclar tantos nutrientes, por ejemplo, si quiero solubilizar guanos, harina de huesos o algas, lo que hago es crear un lacto fermento con cada uno de ellos, en el caso de lacto fermentos con minerales, sigo preparándolo mezclando varios, este preparado es muy eficiente en quelatar minerales, y sobre todo en solubilizar fósforo. PROCEDIMIENTO: A veces consigo suero de oveja de un vecino que hace quesos, a veces hago suero de leche cruda de vaca y cuando no tengo ninguna de estas fuentes, hago suero a partir de leche pasteurizada, como el caso de este. - Mezclo el suero (1l) con la melaza y la miel, lo caliento a unos 30°C. - Peso los ingredientes. Como regla general, en el caso de componentes orgánicos usar del 8 al 10% como máximo, respecto a la cantidad de líquido. En el caso de minerales del 4 al 5%. - Añado la levadura al suero con la melaza y la miel. - Añado los componentes secos al barril. - Añado el suero con la melaza y la levadura al barril y agito. - Añado el litro de auxinas líquidas y agito bien. - Lo cierro hermético con válvula de gases. - Guardo el barril a oscuras al menos durante 30 días, pero cuanto más tiempo lo mantengas cerrado antes de abrirlo por primera vez el resultado será mejor. La fermentación comienza violentamente a los pocos minutos dura varios días así y después se hace más lenta. USOS: Este es un preparado que uso como complemento a las auxinas en polvo, lo uso para hacer riegos o aplicaciones foliares de disponibilidad inmediata. - Hago aplicaciones foliares en plántulas, en las primeras semanas de vida. - Lo uso al comienzo de la etapa de crecimiento vegetativo en conjunto con agua de coco. - Riego con este preparado después de hacer cortes apicales. - Lo vuelvo a usar en riego en conjunto con el agua de coco al comienzo de la floración, y esta es la última vez que lo uso en un cultivo. Una señal inequívoca de la actuación de las hormonas, es que las plantas son más susceptibles al fototropismo, esto se traduce en una respuesta mayor a la incidencia lumínica, las plantas, sus hojas y brotes se inclinan y se dirigen hacia la mayor fuente de luz. Yo lo he visto muchas veces después de aplicar auxinas. y esto es todo por hoy... 😅 Hasta la próxima semana... GRACIAS POR ESTAR AHÍ, CULTIVADORES!!🖐️👨‍🌾💧💦🌞💡 =================================

I switched lights and lighting schedule last week, the stretch is in full swing and I’m starting to see some baby buds.

1 moth passed from germination. In result we have 12 strong plants and 4 reduced. They begin presenting wonderful scent! Increased my led on 40 % of power and it seems great. Buen fin de semana a todos !

Aloha Freunde der Sonne 😊 Heute wurde das letzte Mal so richtig entlaubt. Nicht ganz Lollipop aber für mich reicht das vorerst. Ich muss klar sagen das ich noch nie so einen schönen Geruch in der Nase hatte. Ich freue mich auf die Ernte. Viel Spaß 🙏

Posting the phenos when I do them

** COST ** TO RUN - Used previous ⛺️ setup : 0.00USD - Monthly electricity : 36.73USD <-- other ladies sharing ⛺️ - 3 Gallon Fabric pot : 0.15USD - Bonsai wire : Apx. 0.03USD - Reused soil from last run : 0.00USD FOR NUTRIENTS - Jadam Microbial Solution : 0.00USD - Fermented Plant Juice : 0.00USD APPLYING - JMS : 30ml / 1 Litter - FPJ : 30ml / 1 litter TOTAL COST : 36.91USD Throughout the week, I give compost tea, and fermented plant juice once each ^^ Its almost time!! Trichrome are cloudy, but its hard to find amber Trichromes yet. According to Fastbuds she will be ready in 4 days ^^; Hope you guys have a wonderful day today ^^v *** Please Like, comment & share *** Highly appreciated -----/-----<@

SUNDAY 5/5: Rearranged the gardens..have 17 plants in the 4 x 5 now...yowsa! MONDAY: Plucked some dead leaves and did a trichrome check on couple of them...about 30% cloudy at most.. TUESDAY: I observed some white spots(maybe powdery mildew) on a few leaves here and there throughout the garden, so I sprayed them today with Trifecta Crop Cure, a concoction of a bunch of natural plant oils. I already decreased the humidity in the room to 45% with my new 70L dehumidifier, so I think they'll be fine. I'll spray them again tomorrow and the next day, then I'll have to hope that did the trick, because they'll be entering the harvest window over the next few days.