Day 78 - Starting week 12 and her final week and man o man she’s gonna be amazing. She’s almost to the percentage of amber trichs that I’m looking for so she’ll be getting the chop this weekend and planning on doing it Sunday, just waiting for her to dry out. Day 79 - She ambered up quite a bit the last 24 hours and she’s almost dried up so will most likely do the chop on Friday. Nice, fat and dense buds and can wait to give this girl a try. What an easy grow this has been. Day 80 - Decided I’m going to give her until Sunday now for the chop. Going out of town for two days and don’t want to rush chopping her tomorrow night. So ended up giving her 2 more gallons of cold plain water and the way she was drinking, she should be ready Sunday evening. Day 82 - She’s actually fattened up quite a bit more the past couple days and on track to chop tomorrow. Heading out of town for the night and she’s pretty much dried up and should be good for an evening chop.

The girls have survived another week ❤️ I did a light defoliation and have been monitoring the RH closely. We have had a very damp week here, and the RH kept climbing and had my fan working hard. They are starting to plump up and fill in 😋. They have also started to slow their drinking habits, instead of watering every three days, it has moved to every 4 now. Just a couple of weeks left, I think I will be harvesting these over Christmas 🎄, and will have some great bud ready for the new year! 🎉🎊🍾

Coming soon

week intel: its time for second pruning they grew up too fast and need second pruning as below : first i remove big fan leaves and only leaves then let them rest for 1 day then the second part of pruning will get done that is removing branches based on these conditions: 1-if the branch is very low and never can make it to the top , 2- if branch is in shade even after pruning fan leaves , 3- if there are too many branches at the small space then non of them will get resources so if there is no space for branch then , they must get remove. everything is perfect! stresses : pruning big fan leaves and lower branches + a little E.C stress around 1.7 once a week feeding: i feed them 3 times this week with this order : day 1 : i feed them heavy with silicate +base nutrients(calcium & micros + Bloom) about 884 ppm - 1.7 e.c to cause a little stress. day 3 : i feed them low dose of Feeding Booster + Karbo Boost around 325 ppm - 0.6 e.c to let them recover a little but not fully recover still a little stress will caused. day 5 : i feed them with low dose of Top-Max + B-52 around 213 ppm - 0.4 e.c to let them recover the stresses to get ready for another stress next week. guide of the week : no more stresses from now on till the end and from next week i'll reduce the amount of nitrogen and calcium to below half to the end.

Start Woche 8 (Start Blüte) Von gestern auf heute wurde auf 12/12 umgestellt. Es kamen nochmal ein paar Lst Clips rein und die 2 Lage Netz wurde vorbereitet. Zudem wurde unten herum mal etwas Luft gemacht.. Ansonsten muss ich sagen Gefällt mir was ich bisher sehe. Schön kräftiger, buschiger Wuchs🥀💪 Zudem Bekam die gute heute wieder 4l Wasser mit Green Bull. Ich denke sie bekommt Ende der Woche dann das erste mal nen Composttee🍀🍀 Licht ist bei 900ppfd bei nem VPD von 1,3 Tag5 Blüte Heute gab es 3l Composttee (50g Biotabs PK Booster Compost Tea, Melasse und Wurmhumus; 36h angesetzt) und es wurde nochmal entlaubt. 2. Netz kam auch dazu.

Plants are currently drying 2+ months later. And next project au79

I noticed that the drainage EC exceeded 2.6. I'll have to correct that. 🙊

Hello everyone 😎 Week 6 of flower for the Strawberry🍓 Time to Flush💦 In love with the colors Photos are coming for the 420 Xmas contest🎄 The smell is divine super fruity 🤤 She’s under the Mars Hydro FCE-6500+adlite for the last Pusshhh

Well this little girl is forming very much like kush buds would , very dense and thick bud with very few white pistel hairs , A very attractive bud too watch form , she is packing on bud like there is no tomorrow as you can see from the pics and drinking the pot dry every 3 days of 8 pints , the colour from this plant is truly a sight indeed and the smell she is giving off is like a mouthful of blackberry jelly and icecream back when you was a kid , i am very excited about this one and cannot wait too try her ,

This week marked the final chapter of this journey. After 17 days of sunny, dry conditions, the sudden return of damp, humid weather and low airflow triggered internal bud rot (Botrytis) deep inside the main cola. Despite regular inspections and careful care, it developed rapidly in the dense core. I removed the affected top to stop further spread, but it was clear — nature had made her decision. The plant gave her all and was already in the final ripening stage, so I’m grateful for what she produced. Lesson of the week: Even outdoor autoflowers can fall victim to mould late in flower, especially in humid coastal climates like Ramsgate. Next time, I’ll cover my plants during the final weeks to protect from dew, humidity, and stagnant moisture. Big thanks to FastBuds for a strong and impressive cultivar — this was a powerful pheno with excellent structure, trichome coverage, and strong medicinal aroma. The genetics were solid; this was simply a weather issue. Every grow teaches us something. Grateful for the ride.

Grow diary 11 stage 7 Day 61-70 She has had to fend for herself most of the last 9 days. When I got back I was hoping she would be in flower. 70 days in and not in flower so she has fucked up my schedule a bit. But on the plus side she going to have a bigger harvest from the extra veg time.

Trying to keep the conditions steady. The seem to be growing faster, they really like the fertilizer. All 3 have 4 nodes, but the bottom true leaves seem to be dying. Might have been inappropriate ph earlier. Day 25: The plants started to smell, although it’s weak Day 28: The fifth node is developing nicely. I think I’ll top them soon, maybe except the little one. It doesn’t seem to be growing well so far.

Topped, defoliated and started training the 2 bottom branches branches on both plants. Also added a root growth enhancer i use for cloning, not Kangaroots.

Bueno de aqui a nada le voy a aplicar Bloom Booster

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

9-7-25. What can I say the Apple fritter continues to do very well have no insect damage and no major issues to mention. The plant has been completely trellis for the last time. The bud structure is really great. The branches are really large. Really happy plant is doing well. top dressed it’s last top dress with one cup each of flower, finisher, primo Hydroslate, pure kelp, dry, and soluble seaweed extract as well as Azomite. All of these are micronized and soluble powdered so the plant should uptake the nutrients much faster than traditional top dresses. Don’t have any large granules that are gonna take time to break down and water in from here on out it will be water with its last two sugar water drenches, which I will use boogie brix, and black strap molasses brixs. with all of these nutrients and amendments in place I will let the girls ride out their last few weeks with Just nice rich mountain water to ensure they use every bit of the sugar, phosphate and potassium for frosty buds with heavy resin and terp production .

End of week 4 🌸😍

Verdaderamente por estar en maceta de 5 litros fue una productora en potencia. 68 gramos en seco de cogollos resinosos, compactos y dulces. Buena generación de resina. Se aguanto mucho las defoliaciónes y las podas en los bajos. Gran abrazo gente

DIVINE OG KUSH / DIVINE SEEDS WEEK #15 OVERALL WEEK #2 FLOWER This week all is good. She's doing got her stretch going on to make room for the buds she's about to produce once again no issues can't wait to shewhat she does into the later stages of flower!! Stay Growing!! Thank you for stopping by and taking a look it's much appreciated!! THANK YOU DIVINE SEEDS!! BUDTRAINER.COM BUD CLIPS DIVINE OG KUSH / DIVINE SEEDS