OG Kush, the name alone brings up images of something totally chill. But this little guy isn't just about having a cool name, he's got serious growing potential. From the moment that first shoot broke through the soil, I knew this seedling was something special. The leaves are a perfect shade of dark green, and they've got that signature OG thickness. I'm excited to see how this one develops – it's gonna be a fun journey watching OG grow into a big, beautiful plant!

It’s day 36 and I’m so happy with them cuz I think they grow little slow but @ this time they grow nicely and healthier than earlier days. I’m gonna make next 2 more vege weeks and then let the girls to start flowering week

Flush next week

This week the plants got very bushy and wide. Stopped using Root Juice and Used Recharge microbes for the first time one day out of the week. LST also began this week. I noticed separate issues on two of the plants on their 21st day; the girl on the right showed some yellow color in some of the tips of the new growth at the top of the plant, while the girl in the middle had low hanging leaf tips which look burned / discolored. I think I might be over-watering. I'll confirm all of their soil is completely dry with my a moisture meter before watering next time.

She's a little shorter than the others in the tent so I didn't top her again this week, but is looking healthy with full green leaves. Had to go out of town for a while which is why there was a little standing water in the video. Don't usually do this but was rushing before heading out for a few days. This plant is now on the left in the timelapse video. Enjoy!

At the start of the week, there were no flowers and at the end tons of them. Feeding 2 times with 7l of nutrient solution at start and end of the week 1000 ppm cause when I fed few weeks before with 1200-1300 ppm tips showed burning. A very strange thing happened during the last feed when I measured 3000 ppm on runoff and ph was wine at 6.5-6. I am thinking it's probably due to Guerrilla tabs activating in huge amount. Will watch for burning and water with straight water in a few days to check runoff ppm again.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

This strain has smelled dank from the moment her first crystals arrived, just like having a few oz GSC laying around. She's currently drying and there has been no grassy hay smell to cure off like usual. My dry room just stinks like Girl Scout Cookies

Harvest - Let me start off by saying how impressed I am with this plant and the flower produced, not only was it consistent with the description but it seems to be consistent across other diaries that i've seen - really top notch job i'd say. Grow: Growing went without hassle, this plant started off it's life from seed being vegged under my hlg quantum board for the first 5 weeks of its life - after that I left it inside under 5-6 hours of direct sunlight to flower, bud chunked out nicely and i am impressed by the yeild considering the amount of light. Smoke: I love this bud, It is truly pleasant to smoke - so smooth you could smoke it constantly without fear of harshness. The creamy and sweet flavor are a real treat. I will definitely be growing this again

She's just a beautiful plant😀 growing well, stretching a bit , produced many budd sites that are at that top of the canopy

So this week I have been defoliating the big fan leaves shading the undergrowth in order to promote lower internodes. I hoped to get the EC in my run off lower to give them a nice flush before giving them flowering nutes. At the beginning of the week I was still feeding with an EC of 1.2 and run off was down to between 1.3 and 1.5 and there is clear signs of nute burns on some of my leaves and all the new growth is very light green. So I'm going to flick them at the beginning of next week. Happy growing! 👊👍

This was a good week we say alot of growth and they seem like they've all recovered from the bad ph. Day 29 I topped Plant B and day 31 I topped the rest of them. Gave them 4 cups of water with 1 ml of calmag in it. Ph was at 6.4. Trying to plant some of the tops because why not. If they grow they grow. Day 33 I Transplanted into 1 gallon pots because the roots were filling and coming out of the bottom of the solo cup. Still in fox farms happy frog soil. Sprinkled some "great white" mycorrhizea in the soil. Transplanted went good.

This week went very well! One will be getting cut an hung to dry while the rest finish up with one more week of flush ! These ladies are smelling so lovely I hope you all enjoy! Stay tuned for next week! Cheers 😤💨💨💨💨💨

This week i started flushing. The thricoms are all cloudy with some amber. Due that its an outdoor grow and they day is shorter the plant is finishing slower than usuall. The smell from this purple punch Autoflower is amazing and i am very happy with density of the buds. Hoping that in the next 10 days the plant will be done and ready for harvest.

1st of November, HARVEST, D91 So, after the 24 hours of darkness, she is now beautiful and ready. After chopping her, I hung her for some hours – I had some stuff to do – and after that I did wet trimming since I find it more convenient and I don´t like to trim dry buds. I guess the best way for me would be to leave it drying for some days, do the trimming, then leave it drying some more, but, I sincerely don´t have patience lol. When I was in the last stock to trim (which was the main btw) the top bud looked strange to me so I opened it and it was starting to rot.. I got really sad but what can I do except for trying to save it, right? So I took all the rotten parts out of the top bud and tore it to pieces to watch it closely and keep it from getting any more mold. D94 Today I weighed the half part of the top bud that was already dry and it remained without any mold: 3.6 grams. D97 Everything is dry and now curing, the total weight is 68.6, 65 of the whole plant and 3.6 of what I saved from the rotten bud. I´m really happy with the results, the buds aren´t much dense but they look beautiful. D111 Today is the 14th day of curing. D120 Today I´ll be doing the smoke report, it´s been curing for 3 weeks and the smells is quite good already, I know it can be better but the taste is good already so I´ll be doing it today. More info on growing in the previous weeks and a summary of growing and also the smoke report are on the top at the strain review. Thank you very much for reading my diary!

I'm going to try an 1hour/day of UV light. I want to know if it will increase the weight, increase the trichomes, is it true?

Germination, that says it all! #2 (ghost OG) and #3 (gravely Ghost) popped tails in 24 hours #4 (sour Ghost Kush) popped tail in 48 hours #1 (ghost Beach)popped, but seed did not fully crack and taproot got stuck. I did not notice in time and it died. Dropped a second seed on day 4 and germinated in 24 hours Each seed planted in damp soil once taproot popped. Soil moistened with 250ml per pot in germination area. Voodoo juice in water and Dynomyco in soil blend.

Love the nugs coming In. 12/9/23 - Update, the Royal Dwarf auto is very tint. She's only 1 foot tall and already has 25 bud sites! I'm very happy with the flowers coming in, no 🍌 nanners or hermie characteristics! She's 100% female, and fits her name "Itty-Bitty"

Pretty average growth, the leaves are a little funky. I am trying to keep the soil from drying out to a crisp. Plant 1 is taller, Plant 2 is shorter with leaves a little further along.