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This is my second grow of the same strain. I was checking this website all along the first grow and wanted to contribute on my second one. Welcome. Five days ago I placed two seeds in a paper towel waited three days for the roots to emerge. I used drinking water and some ph down liquid to set it to 5.8 I also adjust the ph of the water in the humidifier device. I used some cal-mag and enzym to set the ppm to 0.6 which is perfect for germination. Tap water is too hard and drinking water is too soft. I found my way around this.
I preferred biobizz lightmix with some extra perlite, some vermiculite on the top, hydrotons on the bottom with 20L air pots. I mixed MicroMix and Mycor Mix from Aptus to the soil 1g per liter of soil. Those are said to be very beneficial bacterias and microorganisms for the root development and uptake of nutrients etc. In the first grow I had three 10 liter pots of Hindukush and got 600gr wet bud weight in total 90 watts of mostly Osram 660nm deep red and with little blue light. It had pros and cons. This time I switched to a more modern quantum board style light. It was not on the list it's called BavaGreen 240W with infrared and ultraviolet switches. I measured the right distance using the ppfd charts provided by the lights manifacturer and some mobile phone apps. I set the distance to 200 ppfd and turned of the IR, UV and Red. Mostly 3000K and some 5000K. After two weeks I will turn on the 660nm section.
Hi mate, I do this and always have done for the first couple of weeks of my indoor grows. I always compare my starts to other grower and even though my CO2 level are higher than ambient, I notice the great progress mine has over some others. No need to change the light height as its not the intensity you are changing its the rest period you give the plants. They suck in CO2 during the day and expel O2 at night. Having high co2 levels will take your grow to the next level when using the 24hr -18 hr technique. She will drink more water when exposed to more CO2 so keep that in mind. I hope this helps, good luck and happy growing
its growing very well not much nutrients so far.
there is another thing that i couldnt mention last week. its not legal to grow in my country. there was a police operation that aims people who buy growing equipment. i was lucky but i decided to move my tent to somewhere else and everything related to it. found an old guy who gave me a spare room to grow and i visit him everyday. its going nice.
it has been four weeks now and i observed some inward curling of the leaves and shiny green colour which is i think the result of nitrogen toxicity. what do you think? im thinking to give some plain water for the next couple of times. by the way i've never exceeded 0.8 EC so far.
Looks like an N tox to me. I also noticed the leaves closer to the humidifier look in worse shape than the leaves at the back. I'd try and make sure they arent getting the moisture from the humidifier blown directly on to them as they are looking overwatered.
I would be inclined to flush when shes next due a watering to get rid of possible nutrient buildup. (Pour 3x pot volume of water through)
Also I'd test the runoff ppm/EC just for that added peace of mind.
Hope this helps 🙂
for the last three weeks im doing LST in every two days and feeding with a lot of nutrient water. this is my best grow so far. I also defoliated so many fan leaves. LST still goes on this week. Buds started to be seen.
im experiencing 32 degrees celcius it's middle way through flowering. do you think it's too bad or does it reduce my harvest significantly? what happens if i switch to 12/12?
I grow outdoors in temps that regularly exceed 35 and often 40 and multiple times each summer, with peaks of up to 45-48 (Celsius!) for a day or three in a row, also multiple times each summer season, and as long as the plants are moist, suffer no ill effects regarding yield or potency. In fact I think trichome production is encouraged by the extreme weather. The plants are in full sun all day, every day and from day one until harvest.
A few days at 32 will be just fine and not a need for any type of stress for you or your plants.
Just keep them well hydrated and all will be fine.
Hope this helps, Organoman.
I measured run off ec today and it was 2.0 so i decided to give plain water until it drops. i have been feeding with nutes everyday 2.25 liters each. it evaporates but still i suspected salt build up. also im not sure if i measured it correctly. what are your thoughts?
Hi there,Run off EC 2.0 is not so high but it depends on how your plant response.Your plant seems to be much green in colour and tips burn(nute burn).In soil, the less nutrient the better if you want to see natural beautiful ripening sign.So cut off or reduce Nitrogen rich nutrient for a while.This also should lower your ec value.Only give water when your top soil is dried about an inch to two and keep run off around 10~15% to prevent salt build up.Check both of your water pH, ppm(EC) and run off even when you give plain water.You don’t need to water everyday and you don’t need to feed everytime you water.Always listen to your plants.Happy Growing... ✌️
I stopped LST in the 6th week. then I observed buds are fattening up really fast since I entered 8th week. now is week 10. Buds are not fattening up that fast anymore. im expecting 13-14 weeks in total. I've been giving a lot of P lately, when should I increase K? before flush?
Potassium (K) is needed all throughout flowering and more so than phosphorous (P).
If you haven't increased the K by now, you may be too late, as your flowers are at the stage they stop growing noticeably and only ripen/mature after this.
Giving a boost of K now will not hurt though, but don't expect to see any great extra growth happening.
Hope this helps, Organoman.
Looks like a calcium magnesium type deficiency but if ur thinking that ur overfeeding them then it's probably got lockout. U need to flush the plant with PhD water at a temperature under 21 degrees to wash away all the salt build up from the root zones.
Rust spots in the middle of the leaves is a calcium deficiency. The rust spots on the edges of the leaves is a potassium deficiency. The tacos leaves is a magnesium deficiency.
At this stage you should be somewhere reducing from week 5-6 of flowering at 1.8 EC.
ganzigunnu
