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Struggled with fluctuating temperature and humidity levels and decided to move the grow tent from the garage to the basement towards the end of the week. Lightly watered around the plant and not the entire top of soil. Also, did not fill bottom saucer with water which might helped with humidity levels.
Was able to stabilize the grow environment by adding a humidifier and moving tent into basement. Humidity fluctuated between 65% and 85% except 1 day humidifier was empty and temp was kept at around 75. All except NL bounced back. Germinating another NL just in case I need to replace existing NL.
Watered approx 6 days ago with 1 gallon per plant of di water. Next water will introduce recharge for the smaller plant and possible start list for the se and pk plants.
Started LST for all plants. Watered with DI water, cal mag, and recharge. NL is catching up to the other plants after applying recharge. Also NL showing some deficiencies, see if cal mag remedies the issue.
Watering approx once a week with cal mag and DI water PHd to 6.2 and PPM measured approx 2300. Waiting for container to dry out before watering. Found some nats and sprayed top of soil with diamatecious earth and placed sticky paper in each pot. Adjusting tie downs every couple days.
White marks are appearing after I watered yesterday. I caught several nats on sticky paper but have never caused damage to the plant. Would could be causing the damage and how can I treat it?
This is thrip damage. I prefer Azamax or azapro, or if you don't want to use a pesticide. Start foliar feeding with Armor Si. It will make your plants stronger and bugs hate the taste. It will make your plants more resilient to bugs. Spray very lightly! Not a heavy dose. 1/4 the recommended. 1 or 2 times a week. If you spray to much it will burn your leaves. Look up growweedeasy.com for great information
Raised lights to top of tent which caused PK to add extra 6” to 10” of height. Watered PK with DI water Phd to 6.4 with 4 ml cal mag per gallon of water. Measured runoff ppm at 3500 and ph at 5.0. Plants showing brown spots, could they be locked out?
7-31, watered SD with DI water phd to 6.5 and runoff ppm were 3300 and ph 5.4.
Northern lights showing after affects of thrip damage or is it nutrient lockout? I haven’t seen any thrips in the garden, but if thrips can I treat with azamax in the pre flower stage?
That looks like a cal-mag deficiency to me. Every time my plants do that, I increased my cal-mag and the problem would stop. The damage already done will never go away but new growth and old growth wont do that anymore. Also helps to check pH before making any adjustments just incase your pH just fell out of its uptake zone.
Watering every three to four days giving half doses of GH flora nutrients to all plants for transition to flower phase. PK showing signs of magnesium deficiencies due to pre runoff ph of 6.5 and runoff ph of 5.4. Adjusted ph to 6.8 for NL and SD to increase runoff ph, but runoff still measuring 5.5 ph. PK runoff Ppm 2300 and the others around 3300 to 3600. Also, moved light to top of tent and set intensity to 100%.
SD showing nute burn, so watered with DI Water. Flushed PK with 10 gallons of DI water. PK still stressed 4 days after flush. NL starting to flower and overtaking tent.
NL getting big but showing some signs of cal mag deficiencies, SD smaller but has nice flowers, and PK recovering from ph lockout. On 8-17, fed PK and SD 1/3 bloom nutes and cal mag and watered NL with cal mag only. Temps and humidity are getting higher, around 80 f and 60 % humidity. Moved light higher to compensate for NL height.
It’s been approx 60 days since sprout and 4 weeks into flower, for the Sour Diesel and Purple Kush autoflower, should I stop feeding GH three part and water only for the remaining time?
Watered with 1/3 bloom nutes no cal mag phd to 6.8 and ppm 650. SD runoff ph 6.4 and ppm 1100. Had to open tent door due to temps exceeding 80 degrees and rh 55%.
Sour diesel and purple kush autoflowers are week 6 of flower, based on the trichs, are they in the last two weeks of flower? If so, should I flush with phd tap water?
NL is behind by a couple weeks, so I feed 1/2 bloom nutes with recharge. Also, loli popped NL to get plant to focus on top bud formation. PK and SD showing milky trichomes and decided to flush approx 9 gallons per plant of 6.5 phd primo water. PPM’s were 125 after run off measurement.
Watered SD and PK with 6.6 phd primo water only. Run off ph 6.5/6.4 and ppm 325/275. Watered NL with 6.5 phd primo water and 5 ml cal mag. Very few amber trichs, maybe another before week.
Is that the only single tiny piece of that fluffy stuff you can find? Might just be a random bit of fluff - take it off if it is upsetting you and separate that bud in drying to see how it goes. It looks like you are ready for harvest from them trichomes buddy.
Well done!
Harvested PK and SD. Currently drying in 70 F. and humidity between 50 and 65 %. NL watered with 1/2 bloom nutes and primo water phd to 6.8. NL suffered limb break due to vacuum accident and used duck tape to repair limb.
Most trichomes are milky and decided to flush with 9 gallons of phd dechlorinated tap water. A few days later, watered with ice water to boost trichomes.
Catova
