Bruce Banner - PC controlled system

I would go 24/7, as no need for pebbles to dry.

fast new growth is sometimes lighter green. I'd make suer the blemish isn't some normal early plant stuff... those first few sets of leaves can be wonky, but then it grows out of it. Wow, great info in diary... pH looks fine, EC looks fine (~1.5 is great, i do see a small spike?).... ppm at ~6pH: N - 120ish P - 50ish K- 200ish if near those values, prolly not a def/toxicty from NPK... doesn't rule out lockout elsewhere for other reasons of course. Fe is rarely an issue. using RO water can be an exception, but since you are 'hydro' nutes, it should have all the trace elements you need.. it'd be rare in this context to be Fe. i'd becareful of trying to maintain ~5.8pH... it's right on edge for P, Ca, Mg, and Mo. regardless, i'd give it a bit of time.. i bet it grows out of it with no change needed. I'd calculate your per nutrient ppm from guaranteed analysis labels and if in ballpark of what was listed above, should be fine. pH impacts that ratio a bit, and i use a slightly higher pH.

In water grows, they recover in 2 to 3 days. Just make sure you run some plain 5.8 ph water over your clay to release any built up salts in the clay. Then for the week your in and if their photos, then your good at 5 to 600 ppm 1 to 1.2 ec for now. If you see good growth next week, then up them by 100 ppm. Do this every week until you hit 800 ppm 1.6 ec. If their autos, cut them back to 400 ppm and up the same way until you reach 600 ppm

I would begin training now. 5 nodes is what I shoot for. You want established roots for better recover rates so if she has been sick at all I would wait till recovered growth rates. I veg longer than normal though but that’s my method. Happy growing!

If these are photoperiod and still in veg I wouldn't mind the higher humidity because of vpd (vapor pressure deficit)will probably be around the sweet spot meaning better growth. But I would install some fans to keep the air moving above and below the canopy

Use risers... something to lift the shorter ones. old textbooks? an upside down bucket? etc... some 2x4s, if they remain dry and no mold on them, lol. footprint and beam angle determine height of light, then use dimmer from there, if needed. Still more penetration if you use 100% and raise the light from there if it is too intense for a mature plant. There is some concern when dimming significantly. you lose integrity of spectrum for lack of better words... that nice curve that mimics wavelengths related to photosynthesis... toss that out the window when dimmed very low. it'l still work obviously, but bang per buck is diminished in other ways too, like loss of efficacy in driver when dimmed enough. imo at the stage your plants are at, better to have at ~100% and at a higher distance than optimal for footprint, if needed. the immersion from photons bouncing off walls will be hitting places that would otherwise not receive as much light. Talking few more watts and better buds below! The reason you need more light in bloom is only due to 33% fewer hours of light. when photons are added up, they can handle the same amount of light per 24 hours over 12 as they can over 18 (DLI) which will mostly depend on amount of CO2 there is. but temp and RH%. are important too. Regardless of that, you hav a light and you have a space filled... you can't neglect a plant at this point. Height should be determined by what can properly hits all plants... raising it from there plausible, but lowering should be avoided because you will lose proper coverage due to beam angle. awesome info in diary, btw. will be easy to diagnose problems with confidence. i'd calculate your elemental ppm of each nute from your labels... at least once. minor adjustments, you'll have an idea and that's good enough at that point.

get a dehum with a pump for continuous drain or buy a condensate pump with one that does not have that option. One that is a bit larger than required is a good idea, so it doen't have to struggle while run 24/7 -- believe the bigger portable ones are more efficient than the smaller ones anyway? It will definitely add some heat to the room... depending on size of room and if you exhaust outside that room etc... could fit a small one inside an enclusore, but i don't like giving up growing space to equipment.

That isn’t a ph issue, that’s a calcium and magnesium issue. Being off by 0.30 or 0.60 won’t make a difference if you were 5.9 lower or 7.1 or higher I’d be an issue. The spots are from the plant starting to rust up from calcium def and the fanleaves yellowing like they are are from a magnesium def. the lime green tips are new growth and it’ll get darker as it grows. It’s usually sometimes it’s one of those two deficiencies or the other but some strains do both if the plant is more adaptive to being acidic. Buy some cal mag plus cause it has nitrogen as well and use it every other watering. It’ll work itself out with a few weeks. I use 2.5 ml in a half gallon once a week and 5ml when I give a whole gallon. Other than the magnesium issue they look great and good job on the veg.

Looks like you are magnesium deficient or your ph is boarder line to being out of range. Add cal mag to nutrition, I would up potassium and phosphorus levels going into flowering. Easy on nitrogen your plant is showing dark green and even looks shiny which is nitrogen toxicity. Nothing you have done has jeopardized your harvest yet. Just speed bumps. Doing good, few minor changes and back to killing it🤜🤛 good luck and happy growing 🌱

Hey there MaskedHunter, the chlorosis on the newest growth is simply "inertia" from the magnesium deficiency which is an "immobile nutrient" so it will affect the newest growth first. The good news is that you're already fixing it, so just be patient and keep doing what you're doing. Just one more thing, you can see some N toxicity symptoms also, that's the "too dark" "too green" "shiny aspect" of the leafs. Probably you can cut the N by quite a lot to fix it. Both of these problems are quick and easy to fix, so dont panic and dont stress, because that is how you can make mistakes. I hope this helps ! 🚀

Hi there MaskedCucumber , really interesting question. I dont really know what motivated you to get a dehumidifier, but it's not such a simple thing i think. Basically the logic is that plants are mostly water, they use water, etc. much like us actually. So they actually enjoy quite high humidity, even in flower. The main problem with high humidity is the mold, so this is the issue you should prevent as a priority. What i do is i use beneficial microbes to make sure the plants are not contaminated. However, in your case you brought the humidity down. This means you should actually increase the temperature up to 25°C no problem. You'll see quite a big difference. Or you can keep your temperature at 21°C and bring your humidity down to 36-40% for the same results. the relationship between temperature and humidity is determined by the VPD. It's not so simple, but if you learn about VPD, you will level up your growing skills , really. Hope this helps ! 🚀

hey there MaskedCucumber, honestly it's pretty bad, but you might not notice it if you dial it in. So you're complete right in your assessment , and you also see newer growth with discoloration , that also means an issue with immobile nutrients plus the downward pointing tips means you have root problems. So the most important thing is dont panic, now is absolutely not the time to flush and cause water stress to your plant. What I suggest is to take a look at your nutrients, cut out the xtraroots and cannazym and replace it with humic acid . The xtraroots has concentrated N in it plus a lot of microbes that are finally very well established, the the zym increases that. humic acid is actually much the same but it has different properties, for example it can also fix your root problems from the xtraroots. usually when you're in flower you do want to stop giving that stuff, but anyway in your case the problem was some "hidden N" inside it. so another pretty good thing with the humic acid is that it will air out your medium next watering just use that once, then replace the other additives with that humic acid for the next times and keep doing what you're doing, you'll see all the problems stop spreading and the plant should recover immediately. By the way fluvic acid also works, just be a bit careful with your pH. Hope this helps ! 🚀

Hello maskedcucumber yes you have 2 differents phenotypes. The first ( small) is more indica and the other wich is tall is more hybrid or sativa phenotype. After each phenotype had different behaviour and need different amount of nutrients. Hope it helps you. Bye

Hi, Also phosphorus deficiency would cause all symptoms. Check here: https://www.growweedeasy.com/cannabis-plant-problems/phosphorus-deficiency In order to solve these kind of problems a good flush with the PH water and then a good feeding is just what you need. Please note that you might be feeding the correct amount of nutrients but the plant might not be absorving them. Checking the EC of feed water and runoff water can also hint you these things.

Hi mate similar problem to what I had last batch with plants at different stages. I managed to get mine out individually and flush but if I hadn't been able to then I was just going to harvest various parts of each plant at a time. Hope this helps.

The trichomes are always further along on the leaves look at the trichomes on the actual bud and it will give you a better idea of when your girl is ready her buds will bulk up over the next couple of weeks I imagine that's when she will be ready for harvest 💚🙏🌱

Is your water level going down? Then maybe the EC is rising because they drink more water than nutrients? Did your temps increase? Considering you are in week 6 of 12/12 I would slowly reduce the nutrients anyway (if you are going to consume your own flowers at least). It could have to do with past problems causing them to not feed well, try reducing the EC to 1.2 as a default diagnosis measure then see what happens. Furthermore this link can be useful: https://percysgrowroom.com/ec-and-ph-fluctuations-in-hydroponics/ And the chart found here: https://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum/growing-community/373012-ec-rising-ph-rising-water-stable-in-dwc-leaves-yellowing

Sorry to see the root rot bro. I use a product called hydroguard and that seems to help prevent or at least stop the rot getting as bad as yours.

It happens on some strains and some conditions late in flower so I don’t believe it just means that it needs more time.. if all your buds are making new pistils id agree maybe but I’ve seen this on one of my BBs in fact. It’s usually right up top closest to the lights and it almost looks like reveg. I think it honestly could be a reaction to too much light, or maybe just a genetic thing? But if it’s just up top on a few and growth looks a little weird up there it’s probably light stress

2-5g...maybe. depends on how you dry it too. Dry her slow. 16-18 'C with 50-60% RH. Then cure for at least two months at 10-14'C

So here’s a little rule of thumb I kind of go by. Once all your tricomes are milky white you’ve reached peak potency. She’s ready to harvest and from this point forward you actually let it ripen for about an other 7-10 days before giving her the chop. This is what I call the harvest window. Now it just all depends on personal preference of what you want out of your flower. Cheer friend 🤙

hey there MC, new calyxes are totally normal, there is no indication by them of ripeness . white calixes sometimes turn after the chop, sometimes not. it really doesnt matter at all. this plant looks a quite ready to me, but again i wouldnt do an "extended flush" that simply doesnt exist in hydro. 12hours is plenty 24 hours max. you're ready to chop any day now. hope this helps ! 🚀