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Transplant day was day 10. Have been watering with ~500ppm daily in the solo cups until now.
Thinking ahead, before I planted my seeds, I cut my solo cups in a way that the inner solo cup can slide out to easily transplant. On transplant day I added myco to the transplant hole and dropped the solo cups in and pulled the cup shell out. Super easy. One plant got a root clipped on the cup, but it should be fine.
After transplant I mixed a new and stronger feed and pH it to 5.6 due to needing to use tap water to inflate my Coco. My tap is a bit higher pH, so I went lower than my usual 5.8 to compensate. I fed until runoff, and will not water or feed for ~3 days to make sure the transplant sets in nicely.
Still getting really big. Did some leaf tucking and LST. Started to notice they are getting droopy on the new growth and getting darker green (n tox?). Wondering what is going on. Need to post online to figure out what it is.
You can see in my day 26 photos that the top new grow are clawing downwards. Tips are showing a bit of nutrient burn. What is going on? N tox? Is the strain that is picky?
It does look like some N tox to me,
If your PPM numbers are correct 800 might be a bit to much for them at this point.
I'd try lowering your feed down a bit and allow it to use up what its got. Could be locking out some other stuff.
Good Luck and Happy Growing.
Found the source of my nutrient issues. It was pH. My pen was wonky and broken. Got a new Apera PH60 and things are looking up. Did some defoliation day 31, then took photos day 32. The tent is back to regular feed schedule. Added big bud into the feed for the two galaxy brains since they are on their own reservoir.
Having some issues with brown spots on leaves at top of canopy. You can see the issues on Day 43-45 leave shots. I am thinking its either Cal/Mag or Potassium deficiency?
Water pH 5.8, 1150PPM. 14ml/gal canna coco A, 14ml/gal canna coco B, 5ml/gal calmag plus, 8ml/gal big bud.
It's rust fungus. I had the exact same problem. It took me 2 years and 6 wasted grows that cost me thousands of dollars to find the answer. Solution is commercial fungicid like Myclobutanil, Trifloxystrobin or Difenoconazole. My plants looked exactly like yours.
It's rust fungus. I had the exact same problem. It took me 2 years and 6 wasted grows that cost me thousands of dollars to find the answer. Solution is commercial fungicid like Myclobutanil, Trifloxystrobin or Difenoconazole. My plants looked exactly like yours.
My reservoir pH was at 5.9, so I just lowered feed by a little. Dropped it down to 950ppm and they are not getting worse. Defoliated and took off bad leaves, so I will know if it gets better or worse. I highly disagree with the comment that autos only uptake 650ppm of nutrients as my friend who has grown in coco for years usually works up to about 1400ppm depending on strain.
It's rust fungus. I had the exact same problem. It took me 2 years and 6 wasted grows that cost me thousands of dollars to find the answer. Solution is commercial fungicid like Myclobutanil, Trifloxystrobin or Difenoconazole. My plants looked exactly like yours.
with your skill , great autoflowers genetics and autopot you can have great results! . the shape and dimension of your plant is awesome, you did great in my small opinion; but I can't see trichomes production..and so smell and aroma and taste looks poor to me .....just my little advice...throw in the bin all synt nutrients, (I spent a lot of money on them with mediocre results), stop getting mad about ppm EC ph and go with organic dry amendments and only water in the tank. tank management will become a breeze.. just add some epsom salt for magnesium if going coco and LED. I never had a smoother grow with autopot and only water strategy. no mixing no time spent on measuring or getting mad for right ppm. just a great mix at the beginning and then only water. Trichomes production will increase significantly..you see your leaves have so few trichomes.. we grow our loved plant for those trichomes... have fun and off course no bending no scrog no defoliation ..nothing apart from natural expression of plant phenotype.
my 2 cents.. take off airdome and pot socks.. add a timer that opens its valve and let water passively come in they trays.. aquavalve is still needed for preventing overflow. set it for 5-10 min every 24 - 12 - 8 - 6 hour depending on plant stage and needs. you will have much more real dry periods for the roots..that will grow amazingly healthy..you can start to turn on the system early with no risk off root rot or overwatering. ph and temperature of water in the tray will be much more close to the water in the tank and roots will not seat in water even during dark period (assuming autoflower 20/4) also humidity will be much easier to manage.
FeedAnGrow
