Day 78: 90 cm, 720 PPFD, 46.5 DLI. Just a good day with very good temp/RH. 19.7-24.5 C, 50-58% RH.
Day 79: 90 cm, 720 PPFD, 46.5 DLI. Watered 4L pH 6.0-6.2 596 ppm. Runoff 450 ml pH 6.4-6.6 630 ppm. It seems she's consuming a lot of Phosphorus at the moment, that's why pH goes up. Reducing concentration of solution. Gonna start flush next round.
Day 80: 90 cm, 720 PPFD, 46.5 DLI. Huge colas became so heavy! Had to support few ones just to keep them under light. Otherwise they gonna bend out and touch the wall. Unfortunately I can't reach all huge colas and tie them up, so I leave the rest till the end.
Day 81: 90 cm, 720 PPFD, 46.5 DLI. Watered 4L pH 6.0 137 ppm. Runoff 450 ml pH 6.8-7 230 ppm. First day of flushing. Trichomes are mostly milky. Noticed few amber ones on calyxes.
Day 82: 90 cm, 720 PPFD, 46.5 DLI. No big difference in leaves colour yet. Just few spots on the edges of sugar leaves, and lower fan leaves are yellowing very slowly.
Brown leaves and curled small leaves right above the cotyledons
On the next day after watering with 0,75 ml/l PH Perfect Grow, Micro, Bloom and 1,5 ml/l Voodoo Juice, B-52 the second row of the leaves (three fingers) became partially brown and the newest lower leaves above cotyledons curled a bit. Can it be some kind of nutrient burn?
I came to conclusion that this is Calcium deficiency caused by too soft bottled water that I used. It has only 43-65 mg/l of Ca2+ and mineralization 0.23-0.35 g/l. Also, I was giving less than half dosage of nutrients recommended for this stage of growth and probably in combination with soft water this caused the problem. Next time I use tap water and give a bit more nutrients to compensate the lack of Ca/Mg. Unfortunately I have to possibility to buy a PH-meter or any PH-paper at the moment, but I hope PH is optimal because I use PH Perfect mix. Thank you all for the answers!
Download a phone app called photone. Check your ppfd you should be around 300ppfd and 20DLi for the stage your at. Then use the app to monitor what ppfd/DLi your plants like at various stages of growth and then next time you'll find it a lot easier to judge.
In the morning the leaves on top are folded and the rest of the foliage looks like loosing turgor. Last watering was 4 days ago, about 4 litres of solution. The pot is 10L. The soil is covered with a layer of perlite and it’s not dry yet. Maybe it’s too much light? 460 ppfd
Hi there, had a scan through your diary and the plant looks good. I'm on week 6 of an auto and my ppfd is 400, which is about 25dli. I find my plants don't ever look great 1st thing when lights come on or just before lights go out. Probably an hour after lights on they look good and about half hour before lights off they look tired again. Only on 18/6 light schedule. Your in the correct ph range. I do prefer ph to be around 6.2 to 6.4 in soil. You probably don't have anything to worry about. Just keep your eye on it. Watering wise just water when top inch is dry, if it takes 4 days inbetween watering then so be it.
Hey there incognito, sorry but i have to disagree with my growmies, this is the start of a magnesium issue, and it will become quite severe if you dont do something about it for example give calmag, or make a calmag spray and spray it on twice a week. If you manage to give enough calmag the symptoms will stop spreading and the plant will recover quite quickly. Hope this helps ! :rocket:
RQS Easy Bud stuck in preflowering. Could flipping to 12/12 trigger flowering?
Hi growmies! Should I flip my auto to 12/12? First preflowers on day 23. Day 37 now but only new leaves, branches and few pistils, no flowers. CalMag def on day 34, cured with spray. I’m limited in time, 6 weeks max to go. If flipping helps to trigger flowering I’d try it. :pray:
hey there Mr. Incognito, flipping might help flowering, but usually switching to flowering nutrients will work better to trigger flowering. With 6 weeks left on the runway it's going to be tough to cross the finish line growmie . reduce veg nutrients with N and increase flowering nutrients with PK , hopefully that speeds things up. Hope this helps ! :rocket:
Which feeding recipe for auto in preflowering/flowering would you choose? PH Perfect Grow, Bloom, Micro supplements.
Hello! I'm going to switch the feeding of my auto to flowering soon. I don't like the ratios recommended by AN, since it's for photoperiodic plants, that require more feeding. I calculated few recipes. Using soft water, so need more Cal/Mg. Want to hear your opinions/suggestions.
There's nothing like auto need less nutrients than photoperiod, what count is what size your plant gonna reach, a small plant obviously need less nutrient than a bigger plant. If your auto get a vigorous growth the first few weeks of stretch (wich is not most people case here on growdiaries, for some reasons that are beyond my understanding many people f**k their first few weeks and end with rather small plants) you can feed it exactly the same as a photoperiod eventually a week or two delay with the feeding schedule and's that's all.
i feed my auto exactly the same as my photoperiod and they both like it.
Hi all! Noticed that the newest growth is slightly pale. I’m giving about 1,25 ppm Fe with feeding, and 60 ppm S. pH is 6,3-6,7. Solution ppm last watering 830 ppm. The plant continues its growth, forming flowers well. Currently in stretching phase, 4 cm per day.
830ppm is pretty low... I think they're a bit hungry and you could up the amount of nutes you're giving them. This is the guidelines I use:
PPM readings in soil.
Early Growth: 400 to 500 PPM — You won’t see too many particles aside from what’s in your grow medium.
Seedling: 500 to 600 PPM — The information above applies here, though any starter nutrients will affect the readings.
Early Vegging: 800 to 850 PPM — This is when you typically transplant. At this stage, not a lot of particles are needed.
Mid-Stage Vegging: 850 to 900 PPM — You’ll start giving your plants more nutrients at this point.
Late-Stage Vegging: 900 to 950 PPM — Nutrient intake increases as your plants prepare to flower.
Early Flowering: 950 to 1000 PPM — As your plants grow, they need to eat more. PPM readings will reflect the particles in the increased nutrients.
Mid-Stage Flowering: 1000 to 1100 PPM — Your plants’ nutrient intake continues to increase at this stage.
Late-Stage Flowering: 1100 to 1150 PPM — This is when your plants are eating the most, especially if you provide additives.
End of Flowering/Flushing: 0 to 400 PPM — At this stage, you’ll be flushing your plants. Ideally, you don’t want too many leftover particles at the end of flowering.
You also want to make sure the PH of your runoff is within the range of 6.0-6.5 with 6.3 being the absolute sweet spot.
Hi! I wonder if I can reduce stretching. It's too bushy in the middle and on the sides, lots of tiny branches receive too little light. Today I trimmed 5 lowest tiny branches that were touching the wall. Should I trim some more or give more light? It's about 540 PPFD 35,1 DLI.
What a beast of a plant!
@Growin_Ish, thank you :blush: