Take me to the 70's man...

The cap on the seedling always freaks me out and I have been known to mess with the plant early and kill it on accident. Thats probably what happened to the BIK but I can roll with the two sativas.

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Top Dressed with my dry amendments and topped 3 nodes down with of all branches. Trying to really bush it out under a scrog. The nutrients kicked in within the week on the Acapulco Gold. - Changed the light from about 15% to about 35% at the same height on the ES180 - By using the mixture of Bio Tone and Earth dust I am introducing symbiotic microorganisms into the soil, mostly fungus. From what I understand these mycelium help the plant uptake the food grow healthier roots. - My goal is to use the increased nutrient availability to help the plants handle more light intensity and meet it vigorous growth. -Turned both fans on for stem strength -

This week I am preparing to go on a 10 day vacation in the coming week. The plants will get watered properly while i am gone. But first I wanted to: - Get them transplanted with fresh amendments. I hope that giving the strawberry cough more room to breathe in the root zone will help with the discoloration. I am assuming its a soil ph issue and hopefully this transplant will eliminate that and begin lush growth. - I dont have a tester for the soil Ph that is accurate so i just ph the water using the universal pH indicator that comes in the kit. - My plan is to fill these 3 gallon pots up and then transplant to 10 gallons to finish them off. - Ive never seen anyone try adding brown sugar directly in the amendments but I assume it works similar to adding molasses to a tea. I was making an attempt to feed any beneficial microbes that want to colonize Update: It is now a couple days after i posted the above info. Here is whats new as of now: -The Strawberry Cough is experiencing some transplant shock but the new medium and bio starter should ignite some healthy root growth. I checked the pH of the soil and I have it at 5.7 so I am going to come off on it next water. I also checked the root temps and I got 75 on both.

This week I am prepping to leave for a vacation. The captain of our boat said absolutely no drugs or we get dropped off on the closest island no refund. Crazy bc im going to USVI where weed is decriminalized and medical is legal and sold. Vacation is starting to sound a whole lot like rehab but hey i can cancel now might as well get a nice t break. Anyway enough of that rant I have given a watering schedule and pH instruction to my plant sitter and now we are good to go. I had a huge scare this week when I feed with a bio starter compost tea to aid in bacteria growth in the new soil. I added a pH up solution to the tea but it acidified my soil pretty bad and then my pH reader went all over the place. I panicked and flushed most of the tea out of the Strawberry Cough with 12+ pH water and my ph meter didnt budge. So i decided that shit was off and I am probably okay if i just leave it and flush it real good on the next water but honestly I think it will be find and it was probably necessary to add all that base to the water. We shall see. A pro tip I figured out from this whole mishap was that you can test soil ph by putting a drop of indicator in the run off. My runoff pH was in range so I think i fixed the problem. SCREW any soil ph tester under $100 bucks. Just use indicator This week: -I topped the main colas on both and a couple other chutes. -Ive decided to motivate myself to do meditation by incentivizing it as raising CO2 in the grow room by doing Wim Hof Method breathing. I wish i had a co2 tester to see how much it worked but I know that it releases more than if i didnt do it and depletes a lot of oxygen. i simply lay next to the air flow entrance to the tent and do 3 rounds everyday and then keep the door to the room closed. -Ive done the calculations in order to achieve my desired PPFD and since my tent is .73m2 i need about 1095 lux/m2 to mimic 1500 lux (which is what university studies are saying is optimum in from Utah St). - Its my understanding that it helps the plant adjust to that increase in photon density during 12-12 if you push the plant harder during veg. Basically I am running at about 47 DLI on a 20-4 schedule because I will be shooting for 62 during flower and its been proven to help the transition if the veg cycle DLI is about 25% less than flower DLI. 62-(62*.25)=46.5. - Super excited to get a perpetual grow going and for my 2 xs2000 240 watt fixtures to get delivered. I plan on moving the 180w to veg closet and being able to grow cuttings and have a veg room. My PPFD at 100% (480w) on both lights in my tent should be about 1700 at 18 inches. Perfect! Overkill! I think its better to buy a light that is too intense and use it on lower settings because it puts less stress on your stuff. Simple logic!

LIGHTS CAME IN M****F****R. LETS GO! Christmas morning and I am 8 years old. Reality.... 24 and just bought some overkill growlights on a credit card to float until harvest lol. I got 2 ViparSpectra XS2000 and 5 10 gal grow begs for like 420 bucks or something. I was high... but it was less than 450 with tax inlcuded. These light strapped together with zip ties are the same exact thing as one XS4000 but I wanted to be able to dim independently and its cheaper to ship. I also wanted to be able to interchange lights and angle them for more sunlike effects. idk if that does anything but it looks way cooler than the xs4000 when its angled and thats 420 science. I really just imagine its more efficient. Maybe one day ill front myself an apogee par sensor to test but for now it love it the it is. I imagine in my 2x4 space with the far red light spectrum sensor (ePAR) I could get withen 350umols shy of 1500 so about 1150 to 1500 i cant be exact. I want to push 1500+ umols on the flip and then back off later into flower similar to @Sparkles in this grow https://growdiaries.com/diaries/126807-grow-journal-by-sparkles where I believe he was pushing closer to 1700-2000 umols on the flip. I think the Acapulco Gold will eat that light up but I worry about the Strawberry Cough so its very smart to be able to dim either side separately. The XS4000 is a redundant product for that reason. Only one dimmer. It has less value than 2 XS2000. Know this if you want to replicate my results. Currently I am aiming for a DLI of 60 on AC and a DLI of 50 on the SC. Some strains need less light and the SC was getting crispy at the same level as AG so i backed it down to 50DLI and thats cool and useful to understand. She will yeild more than if i pushed with lower light because I picked up on it early. During Flip I want to push 75DLI on the AG and 60DLI on the SC. Some house keeping: -Tent is set to control to <84F and <60% humidity. It vents to full power every 30 minutes or so for about 7-15 min. I will put it on continuous 10 when i deem that low humidity wont be an issue if I run it 24 hours. Thats my indicator for stale air with larger plants. -I have held back from topping since I think the day after my last post. so about 7 days ago. I switched to defoliation and LST because I wanna be able to tuck under a scrog nicely and fill out the tent. - I only defoliated the AG heavy. The SC was a pluck of two or three light bleached fanleaves. - I am probably either going to top dress or brew a tea before I transplant into the 10 gal pots for the reproductive period and harvest. I am just worried about pH of my teas. its very hard to tell the pH of the tea but I will try the toilet paper again and see if that helps on teas. -I have noticed adult fungus flies i believe. Drying the medium out as much as the plants can take it currently.

I am basically waiting on vivosun to deliver a delayed package to me with my 10 gal pots and then I transplant, let em veg for 3-5 days to show the roots have tapped and the plant is feeding and then I am going to brew a tea and put it on for the flip to flower. Here is what im thinking: - Plants roots seem very nice but I am worried they are bound and I will cause trauma in the transplant - Added the wollastanite to prime the cells with silica and add some calcium. Super excited to use it in my grow and get silica which i have never fed a plant. 10g per liter of soil - Plants should be ready to flip soon. - I am going to go get some supplies to build a soil. I am convinced that peat moss is actually more sustainable than coco when it is sourced from canada. So I am plannign on using a 50-50 peat coco mix and that way I am mroe ethical and sustainable to both sides of the arguement. - I have worries about 10 gallons being to hefty for this grow but I want to try it anyway. Fuck it. 25 week grow needs to yeild heavy af

FINALLY TRANSPLANTED into 10 gallon pots: Flowering SUPER SOIL COMPOSITION (per 20 gal): Medium: -25% coco loco (sustainably sourced from shrilanka i think) -25% peat moss (sustainably source in north america) -50% recycled depleted soil Amendments: -3 cups Citrus Tone Espoma 5-3-6 -1 cup 4-8-4 Mother Earth Bloom -1 cup 2-3-6 Earth Dust Boost -5 cups worm castings -80g w- 20 wollastanite (si + ca) -80g epsom salts -40g dolomite lime Here is what i am thinking: -Plants look good in the new pots, i figure it will be ready to scrog in about a week. -Never heard of anyone using this citrus tone fert but the utah state study said that optimal fertilizer is 20-10-20 blue mixture. Well as an organic grower I want to replicate that ratio. Its not 100% but the point is its high in nitrogen and potassium with adequate phosphorous because I am researching small scale rn and one day I will need to be very mindful of my P usage to be sustainable and regenerative. -I performed a preventative insect repellent because I saw thrip damage and I want to be safe. Honestly I think I am just going to do a neem oil treatment twice before going into flower every time now. I did 1tsp cold pressed jacks neem oil + 1 tsp w-20 wollastanite per 16 oz spray bottle and I drenched both girls all over. I plan on doing one more the day I decide to flip to flower. -Ca is far more important than phosphorous and the nutrient companies have been milking the myths about nutrient ratios for 50 years.' -I really put focus on the rock dust and inert minerals because I have never paid any attention to them but I will be stressing and pushing these plants with light so i need them optimal. -I started my own compost bin with holes in the back yard and I am planning on buying african night crawlers to start a worm bin that way I have two kinds of compost to break down my bubble hash waste and food from the kitchen. Will be great for teas. -I will water them in with a compost tea I am brewing/aerating currently. Giving it 24 hours.

IM SO READY TO GET THESE IN FLOWER! I am waiting on a delayed AC INFINITY shipment with a new charcoal filter and trellis. Then I drop the light and flip it hard My thoughts: - These things almost doubled in size over night. -I got accepted for a SSSC photo contest so I am waiting for those seeds! -Plants look super healthy and I think the roots are getting some absorption of the new nutrients. pH seems far more stable with peat and rock dust added almost like buffering each other. -Huge focus on calcium in the nutes and I think that was a great call. Hopefully the net gets here before these things get to big. Update: MORE FUNGUS GNATS!!! This time its pretty bad and just like overnight too. Had to be the fresh soil. So another speed bump before flower. I am going to do a root neem oil treatment the first 3 waterings after I let it dry out as much as the plants can take it. Going to dail back the lights when they start to wilt and then do the neem oil waterings. This sucks from a soil life standpoint but the gnat larvae are definitely worse from what i hear. I can not risk a bug in my buds guys thats fuckin gross. This is definitely the main issue/challenge when growing high grade organics.

FLIPPED TO FLOWER!!!!!! LETS GO! and the ladies are looking GORGEOUS! Defoliated the night I changed the timer. Day 1: - Set up scrog, dropped the lights, cranked them, and installed new fans and a carbon filter. - Water lightly and sprayed soil with neem oil mixture. Day 2: - watered with like 1 gal each Day 3: Water ed with a gallon each

All I did last week: - Water about a gallon per day btw i boil my water for 25 min and aerate my water for 24 hours before pHing it and using it on the plants. -spray soil and tent with neem oil mixture after every watering -kept the lights about 8-10 inches off the canopy -Tucked and ducked the trellis for a scrog -Probably gunna try a little defoliation before these girls get to sticky.

Updates this past week: We left off on day 10 last week: Day 11: Nothing except tea prep Day 12: Watered with tea: -2 gal dechlorinated water -1 cup worm castings -.25 cup 3-1-2 espoma -.25 cup 2-3-6 earth dust -.5 cup 5-3-6 espoma Day 13: none Day 14: -.5 gal each and moved lights to 12 inches Day 15: -.75 gal each journal update Day 17: Top dress to finish. I am goving ample time for a natural flush i hope.

I hit it with a top dress last week after i posted: Top Dress: Earth dust 2-3-6 boost 2 cup per plant Down to earth 4-8-4 1 cup per plant 20g w-20 wollastonite 20g epsom salts 4 cups black kow manure compost Then i watered with molasses water. Day 21 is today and resin almost doubled overnight on the acapulco gold. Its getting white out on the leaves and looks so beautiful. I think the strawberry cough was getting bleached on the tops so i cut it back to about 60% and moved it up and will readjust once it heals up a but. still getting 1000-1200 ppfd evenly

I decided to do a small drought this week to stress the plants slightly right before i delivered i high phosphorus compost tea. The tea was: scoop of 4-8-4 scoop of 5-3-6 4 cups of cow manure compost epsom salt wollastanite I didnt really measure but it was a decent strength tea. These things smell so fantastic. Strawberry cough was putting off a straight up berry captain crunch profile with some like typical skunkiness. The acapulco gold is giving me notes of the old red hawaiian punch but i swear i can catch coffee from one of the plants when it wafts out after i unzip the tent. The AG like never stretched a bit which is so weird to me. I exepected it to outstretch the SC. Either way i just ran out of weed again and this grow has taken a long time.

Strawberry Cough on the left. Acapulco Gold on the right. Watered when dry. Usually taking about 36-48 hours to dry up .75gal. Just keeping it steady and being easy on the water. Desert and drier climate conditions force flowering species of plants to make trichomes in the wild. They adapt by using trichomes. So i think especially during flowering it’s important to not overwater. Not too much left to do with these girls except water when dry and check the trichome development. I will apply some cold, drought, and stem stress as the resin approaches maturity. Smells are stronger everyday. I am getting an overripe tropical fruit aroma mixed with pine and sulphur from the Acapulco Gold. The strawberry cough as just blown me away. I can already tell this will be a favorite of mine. Sliced fresh strawberrys coated heavily with dixie crystals just like momma used to make me in the summertime. There is some sour and tangie notes on the SC but they are far in the background. I hope this description makes those photos smell.

watered when dry and moved the lights down for flower maturity. I learned today about how these dutch seedbanks source seeds and i think im going to stick to buying directly from breeders like Ethos, TGA, and breeders who grow seeds and breed jn ine operation. Barneys farm doesnt do that and this flower is 100% not a narrow leaf variety as advertised. Genetics are everything in this game.

Trying to drop the temps and humidity in the middle of a rain season and heat wave has proven rather difficult. Indoor humidity in the house is around 70-80% and i have one dehumidifier. As for the heat cutting the lights back for maturity helped with that. Left dry for a day longer than i was during the swelling stage. Going to continue to push drought conditions and cool for extra glandular trichome production as defense. In order to harvest i am looking for a couple things: -Glandular Trichome head shows 60-80% amberness to 20-40% opaque. -Majority of trichome heads should have over 50% amber within the head itself.

used icewater and drought to trigger maturation