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GGAF tent 1st grow ever

3
17
6
750
2 years ago
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3
Oshion
Indoor
Room Type
LST
weeks 2-4
Defoliation
weeks 4
Soil
Grow medium
11.3562 l
Pot Size
Strain
Gorilla Glue Auto
MSNL
Growing it
Easy
Resistance
Neutral
Beautiful buds that are large, dense, and very frosty with excellent smell. It grew pretty much as expected except for some minor beginner errors. The plants that did have issues seemed to rebound extremely well once I fixed the underlying issue.
The Outcome
Week 11
Harvest
What's on the scales?
3628.7361
gram
ounce
Bud wet weight
Harvested
10
Number of plants harvested
Grow Room
6.096
ft²
Grow Room size
1.64
plant / m²
98.43
watt / m²
Reviews. Nutrient
I had some issues with using too much grow big and having too much nitrogen in the plants once they started to flower. Next time I will most likely use Green Planet instead or make sure to lower the amount of nitrogen I feed the plants going into weeks 4 and after.
These worked really well and I will use again.
Reviews. Lamp
Reviews. Tent
Commented by
2ofyn52aUdHza4Y 2ofyn52aUdHza4Y
2 years ago
Mostly consistent plants and buds. One plant became very purple I think because it was closest to the AC unit for most of the grow. One plant had some stunted growth and light green leaves but it made a great come back after flushing it with about 4 gallons of PH'd water and then specifically giving it increased nitrogen for a couple weeks. Some of the lowest buds on the plants were not as dense as I would have liked but I think if I had done some more LST and allowed the lower buds to get more light during flowering they would have turned out as nice as the top buds did. The plants had gotten rather large so there wasn't as much room in the tent to spread out all the colas as much as I would have liked.
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Grow Questions
2ofyn52aUdHza4Y
2ofyn52aUdHza4Ystarted grow question 2 years ago
I have a tent with a ViparSpectra KS5000 LED lights. If I am growing autoflowers and they are in the flower stage do I have to change the light/dark schedule from 18 on/6 off to 12 on/12 off or will it be ok to keep the lights on a 18/6 schedule since they are autoflowers?
Solved
Setup. Lighting
like
GrowingGrannie
GrowingGrannieanswered grow question 2 years ago
Most people keep autoflowers at 18/6 but in all honesty, they will grow in any light - even 12/12... but they won't perform as well at that lowered light frequency. I only grow autos and when I grow them in a tent, the lights are on 100% 24/7 and they do magnificently. At the moment, I'm growing some indoors AND outdoors... they are outside in the sun during the day and then I bring them in to a tent at night where they get the rest of the 24 hours from artificial lights... UNTIL they get too tall for the tent (which some are now) and then they stay outside 24/7 and get whatever length of sunlight nature provides. Good luck! p.s.... the 12/12 flip that you've probably heard of is for photoperiod plants - flipping their lights to that schedule tricks them into thinking it's time to go into flower.... autoflowers don't need that trick - they do it on their own schedule, light be damned...
2ofyn52aUdHza4Y
2ofyn52aUdHza4Ystarted grow question 2 years ago
Do I have some nutrient deficiency or light burn or maybe both? Looks like maybe P or K? I changed my light to a HPS and the plants grew much closer to the light so could be too much PAR/heat so I raised the light. I also had started to add Cal-Mag to my feed just before.
Solved
Leaves. Edges burnt
Leaves. Tips - Burnt
like
GrowingGrannie
GrowingGrannieanswered grow question 2 years ago
At first, I thought I was going to see a PH that was preventing the plant from absorbing calcium - but your PH is spot on... What I think you're dealing with here is too much nitrogen which can lockout calcium - and she's showing definite signs of a calcium deficiency... so your instinct to add calmag is a good one BUT you've got to cut back on that nitrogen! I use Fox Farm myself and have found GrowBig to be way too strong using it according to their schedule. A couple of things I do: first, I never use more than 1 tsp of Grow Big per gallon - ever. When I first introduce nutes to my autos, I only use 1/4 tsp to a gallon (about week 2 or 3).. the next week, I go to 1/2 tsp and then to 1 tsp which I maintain through pre-flower. When they go into flower, I start knocking GrowBig back... by week 6 (which is where you're at), I completely eliminate GrowBig and instead add Tiger Bloom which has a BIT of nitrogen in it - and it's all they seem to need. So that is what I would advise you to do - stop feeding the Grow Big! Add some Tiger Bloom which will give you more potassium and phosphorus... If you see the problem getting worse (the currently damaged leaves will not recover), then you're going to have to do a hard flush to get rid of the excess nitrogen in the soil (you're growing in 3 gallon pots so that means running 9 gallons of ph'd water through adding 1/2 strength nutes to the last gallon). As for the calmag - only 1 tsp per gallon and ONLY once a week or you'll end up with too much calcium and have another issue to deal with! Good luck!
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homerjgangia
homerjgangiaweek 0
Good luck with your grow mate!💪💪
spyder
spyderweek 0
good luck with the grow,,, enjoy.
love_2_grow
love_2_growweek 0
Happy Growing, Buddy! 🌱🌱🌱
LegacyMarketFarm
LegacyMarketFarmweek 0
Hey there friend. Would you be alright with me offering some pointers? So cannabis plants LOVE heat and humidity. It is the buds that hate it. In veg we want to take advantage of this fact to help our plants grow along much quicker and more vigorously. In veg we can look for temps of 79-84 MAX with lights on & no more than 9 degrees less with lights off. If we allow for too much temperature swing between lights on and lights off while the plant is still growing vertically up to day 20 of flower, We will cause the plant to stretch ALOT which we do not want. So in veg & early flower, Keeping our temperature gaps nice and close between lights on and off is key. Utilizing humidity in our rooms during veg will also help out a lot with more rapid growth but we must introduce it properly. In our rooms we have our temperature and humidity set-points, But when we combine those 2 it forms a third set-point which is the most important & that is called VPD, Vapor pressure deficit. I strongly recommend every new grower or old grower who has not learned it yet, To study and understand it & implement it into your room, Logging your numbers daily. https://cerescann.com/importance-of-measuring-vpd/ For soil, We generally want to go for a PH of 6.1 This website does a GREAT job of illustrating it with a nice graph & very good detailed explanation for soil. https://autoflowerseedshop.com/cannabis-ph-chart-guide/ As we briefly touched on before, During veg & early flower we want our temperature gap's nice and tight to avoid stretch. Why exactly our plants stretch in response to this is a genetic trigger being activated by the environmental stress essentially telling the plant the end of the season is closer than it really is. In veg & early flower the plant is still in its first stage of development which is to grow up wide and tall so when it produces seed, It can cast them out nicely. Remember, Whether we are growing our plants for seed or bud their genetic responses do not change as they gh sidedo not know any different. Once the plant has finished that first stage of growth by weeks 4-6 of flower with most strains, It is by day 20 of flower. Autoflowers you have to watch for it, But once the plant has finished this goal its new mission is to focus 100% on producing nice big flower clusters & to get very sticky so it can attract pollen to it successfully. So once that vertical growth is finished, We actually now want to begin to expose our plants to larger temperature swings between lights on and lights off. This will help activate that genetic response and allow us to draw out the most potential from the strain utilizing the plants genetic triggers to environmental stresses at the right times. We can also take this a step further with doing light deprivation in the last 2 weeks using less light to simulate cloud cover. Very cold feed temps on the last flush is very good too. If you do not have them already, Get yourself a good PAR meter & thermal laser temp gun to monitor your plant top temperatures & optimize how much light your plants are getting. We are currently in the middle of producing a very comprehensive tutorial series for everybody to learn from & understand how to grow the highest level craft cannabis all on their own. If this interests you please check out our youtube and subscribe. The first 2 episodes are out the next one is coming in a few days. If you should ever have any questions or need any help, Please feel free to follow my profile and shoot me a DM. I will gladly help you with the pull down & make sure you get the best quality harvest possible as it is the most important step of the entire process. I really think you would benefit from our tutorial series on youtube, Our channel is linked off our main grow diaries profile. We just put up week 3 of plant life care so you got time to subscribe and catch up before the next episode is out! I look forward to seeing you over there and hearing your feedback to better help me shape the tutorials Happy growing friend!
LegacyMarketFarm
LegacyMarketFarm
@2ofyn52aUdHza4Y, Sounds very good man. & yes the wider the gap during the right time of growth is beneficial to what we are trying to do. In veg & early flower pre week 3 we don't want that wide of a gap or we get stretch.
2ofyn52aUdHza4Y
2ofyn52aUdHza4Y
@LegacyMarketFarm, Thanks for taking the time to share this info. I have an AC Infinity filter and fan system with the controller and app and have been tracking all of these metrics and trying to keep them within reasonable ranges so far. I had looked online and thought the range from light to dark was supposed to be 10 degrees and capped at 80F on the high side but that is good to know that I can let the temp get a bit higher during light and not have to cool the temperature down as much during lights off, this will be easier to maintain. VPD has been on average 1.43 and a high of 2.90 so far, was trying to keep it in a range of 0.7-2.5 and will more closely watch the high and low ends. As for soil I tested it after a week and it was low at 5.4 so I watered with distilled water with nutrients at a PH of 7.4 for one day and then have been using PH 6.3 water since. I can lower that to 6.1 moving forward but from what I read the soil PH should be ok as long as I always am watering with the proper PH water moving forward. This VPD guide is great thank you!!!