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GGAF tent 1st grow ever

3
17
6
750
2 years ago
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3
Oshion
Indoor
Room Type
LST
weeks 2-4
Defoliation
weeks 4
Soil
Grow medium
11.3562 l
Pot Size
Grow Conditions
Week 1
Vegetation
7.62
cm
inch
Height
18 hrs
Light Schedule
15+ conditions after
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Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
Commented by
2ofyn52aUdHza4Y 2ofyn52aUdHza4Y
2 years ago
This week consists of June 3, 2022 to June 10, 2022 - Seeds were planted on May 27th, 2022 and they all sprouted on May 31st, 2022 (~4 days) After getting off to a great start with germination where all 10 seeds were successful the first week of vegetation didn't go quite as smoothly. LIGHTS: I'm running the lights on an 18-6 schedule. I have the dark time scheduled from 11am to 5pm since the lights increase temperature and during that time the outside temperature is at its highest so it seems to be easier to maintain proper temperature ranges with the light off during that period. WATER: June 4th I tested the soil PH and it was reading low at around 5.4 in all the tested pots, varying slightly higher and lower for each one. Thinking that I would have to raise the PH of the soil I then added the recommended amount of Big Bloom to distilled water that then tested at 7.7 PH I watered 3 times with about 50ml per watering. Then after doing some more research I decided to just use 6.3 PH for watering and continued to add 50ml of water 2-3 times a day. June 6th I then scaled back to once a day around 50 ml of 6.3 PH water. Starting on June 7th I lowered the water PH to 6.1 and stopped watering every day on June 8th and waited until the soil looked and weighted dry and then watered all plants with ~480ml of 6.1 PH and 400 PPM. This had approximately 1tsp/gal of Big Bloom but I kept adding more distilled water until I got the PPM down to 400 and then a touch of PH up/down to get the water right around 6.1. Water was at room temperature. TEMP/HUMIDITY: I started out the week trying to maintain a max light temperature of 80F and then a dark temperature around 74-76F. This was difficult as the outside temperatures started to climb into the mid to high 80s. On June 7th after getting great advice from @LegacyMarketFarm I pivoted to trying to maintain a smaller range between light and dark and increasing the max light temp a few degrees to a max of 84F and a min of 78F. Now humidity became a real challenge the last few days since the outside temperature went into the high 80s. The small 1 gallon humidifier that was set to run on a sensor with a max 75% was working well at lower temperatures but just couldn't cut it when the AC unit has to run more often due to the high outside temp. VPD was stuck above 2 for a while. Luckily I had another humidifier and added that to the other side of the tent just running all the time and turned on the humidity sensor for the fan controller and would trigger when it raised above 80%. This allowed the tent to return to good VPD much quicker after the AC unit would run and allowed for an average VPD in the desired range. The last day of the week I was able to get the variables ironed out a bit and am now seeing much more stable numbers in the desired ranges (except for the brief period when the AC runs and it dries out the air but the humidifiers quickly bring it back up): Temp - 79.4F avg - 76.0F min - 82.7 max Humidity - 69.3% avg - 40% min - 93.0% max VPD - 1.05 avg - 0.23 min - 2.06 max with the distribution being majorly in the 0.7 to 1.4 range and the high and low ends usually only occurring for a few minutes at most. Whole week numbers> Temp - 77.7F avg - 67.7F min - 92F max Humidity - 57.8% avg - 31.0% min - 93% max VPD - 1.37 avg - 0.20 min - 3.28 max CO2: Starting on June 5th I introduced carbon dioxide into the tent during the light schedule. The sensor is set to 1200 ppm and takes a minute to run on or off after the trigger level is set. This has the in tent ppm fluctuating between around 800 ppm and 1400 ppm. The regulator is plugged into the same outlet as the lights so it turns off on the same light/dark schedule. PAR: I only have a phone app light meter but so far the PAR appears to be sufficient for the increased CO2, at least in the area directly below the light with a PPFD between 400-600. Some of the plants that are on the edges aren't growing as fast as the others likely due to the reduced PAR. I did receive one of the ViparSpectra KS5000's that I ordered for a new tent but maybe I'll try it out in this one first before setting up the new tent to make sure that the plants can fully utilize the increased CO2 levels. ISSUES: Looks like one of the plants might have gotten nutrient burn and had some light spots on the leaves, I didn't do anything other than to just use some distilled water for watering for a day and then just made sure my watering solution was properly balanced afterwards. The spots haven't fully gone away but it continues to grow and seems relatively healthy otherwise. TECHNIQUES: I plan on implementing LST and ScrOG in the coming weeks. I decided against FIMing for now. I don't have experience caring for stressed plants and it's enough work just dealing with the challenging temp/humidity issues from my current tent location.
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Grow Questions
2ofyn52aUdHza4Y
2ofyn52aUdHza4Ystarted grow question 2 years ago
I have a tent with a ViparSpectra KS5000 LED lights. If I am growing autoflowers and they are in the flower stage do I have to change the light/dark schedule from 18 on/6 off to 12 on/12 off or will it be ok to keep the lights on a 18/6 schedule since they are autoflowers?
Solved
Setup. Lighting
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GrowingGrannie
GrowingGrannieanswered grow question 2 years ago
Most people keep autoflowers at 18/6 but in all honesty, they will grow in any light - even 12/12... but they won't perform as well at that lowered light frequency. I only grow autos and when I grow them in a tent, the lights are on 100% 24/7 and they do magnificently. At the moment, I'm growing some indoors AND outdoors... they are outside in the sun during the day and then I bring them in to a tent at night where they get the rest of the 24 hours from artificial lights... UNTIL they get too tall for the tent (which some are now) and then they stay outside 24/7 and get whatever length of sunlight nature provides. Good luck! p.s.... the 12/12 flip that you've probably heard of is for photoperiod plants - flipping their lights to that schedule tricks them into thinking it's time to go into flower.... autoflowers don't need that trick - they do it on their own schedule, light be damned...
2ofyn52aUdHza4Y
2ofyn52aUdHza4Ystarted grow question 2 years ago
Do I have some nutrient deficiency or light burn or maybe both? Looks like maybe P or K? I changed my light to a HPS and the plants grew much closer to the light so could be too much PAR/heat so I raised the light. I also had started to add Cal-Mag to my feed just before.
Solved
Leaves. Edges burnt
Leaves. Tips - Burnt
like
GrowingGrannie
GrowingGrannieanswered grow question 2 years ago
At first, I thought I was going to see a PH that was preventing the plant from absorbing calcium - but your PH is spot on... What I think you're dealing with here is too much nitrogen which can lockout calcium - and she's showing definite signs of a calcium deficiency... so your instinct to add calmag is a good one BUT you've got to cut back on that nitrogen! I use Fox Farm myself and have found GrowBig to be way too strong using it according to their schedule. A couple of things I do: first, I never use more than 1 tsp of Grow Big per gallon - ever. When I first introduce nutes to my autos, I only use 1/4 tsp to a gallon (about week 2 or 3).. the next week, I go to 1/2 tsp and then to 1 tsp which I maintain through pre-flower. When they go into flower, I start knocking GrowBig back... by week 6 (which is where you're at), I completely eliminate GrowBig and instead add Tiger Bloom which has a BIT of nitrogen in it - and it's all they seem to need. So that is what I would advise you to do - stop feeding the Grow Big! Add some Tiger Bloom which will give you more potassium and phosphorus... If you see the problem getting worse (the currently damaged leaves will not recover), then you're going to have to do a hard flush to get rid of the excess nitrogen in the soil (you're growing in 3 gallon pots so that means running 9 gallons of ph'd water through adding 1/2 strength nutes to the last gallon). As for the calmag - only 1 tsp per gallon and ONLY once a week or you'll end up with too much calcium and have another issue to deal with! Good luck!
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homerjgangia
homerjgangiaweek 0
Good luck with your grow mate!💪💪
spyder
spyderweek 0
good luck with the grow,,, enjoy.
love_2_grow
love_2_growweek 0
Happy Growing, Buddy! 🌱🌱🌱
LegacyMarketFarm
LegacyMarketFarmweek 0
Hey there friend. Would you be alright with me offering some pointers? So cannabis plants LOVE heat and humidity. It is the buds that hate it. In veg we want to take advantage of this fact to help our plants grow along much quicker and more vigorously. In veg we can look for temps of 79-84 MAX with lights on & no more than 9 degrees less with lights off. If we allow for too much temperature swing between lights on and lights off while the plant is still growing vertically up to day 20 of flower, We will cause the plant to stretch ALOT which we do not want. So in veg & early flower, Keeping our temperature gaps nice and close between lights on and off is key. Utilizing humidity in our rooms during veg will also help out a lot with more rapid growth but we must introduce it properly. In our rooms we have our temperature and humidity set-points, But when we combine those 2 it forms a third set-point which is the most important & that is called VPD, Vapor pressure deficit. I strongly recommend every new grower or old grower who has not learned it yet, To study and understand it & implement it into your room, Logging your numbers daily. https://cerescann.com/importance-of-measuring-vpd/ For soil, We generally want to go for a PH of 6.1 This website does a GREAT job of illustrating it with a nice graph & very good detailed explanation for soil. https://autoflowerseedshop.com/cannabis-ph-chart-guide/ As we briefly touched on before, During veg & early flower we want our temperature gap's nice and tight to avoid stretch. Why exactly our plants stretch in response to this is a genetic trigger being activated by the environmental stress essentially telling the plant the end of the season is closer than it really is. In veg & early flower the plant is still in its first stage of development which is to grow up wide and tall so when it produces seed, It can cast them out nicely. Remember, Whether we are growing our plants for seed or bud their genetic responses do not change as they gh sidedo not know any different. Once the plant has finished that first stage of growth by weeks 4-6 of flower with most strains, It is by day 20 of flower. Autoflowers you have to watch for it, But once the plant has finished this goal its new mission is to focus 100% on producing nice big flower clusters & to get very sticky so it can attract pollen to it successfully. So once that vertical growth is finished, We actually now want to begin to expose our plants to larger temperature swings between lights on and lights off. This will help activate that genetic response and allow us to draw out the most potential from the strain utilizing the plants genetic triggers to environmental stresses at the right times. We can also take this a step further with doing light deprivation in the last 2 weeks using less light to simulate cloud cover. Very cold feed temps on the last flush is very good too. If you do not have them already, Get yourself a good PAR meter & thermal laser temp gun to monitor your plant top temperatures & optimize how much light your plants are getting. We are currently in the middle of producing a very comprehensive tutorial series for everybody to learn from & understand how to grow the highest level craft cannabis all on their own. If this interests you please check out our youtube and subscribe. The first 2 episodes are out the next one is coming in a few days. If you should ever have any questions or need any help, Please feel free to follow my profile and shoot me a DM. I will gladly help you with the pull down & make sure you get the best quality harvest possible as it is the most important step of the entire process. I really think you would benefit from our tutorial series on youtube, Our channel is linked off our main grow diaries profile. We just put up week 3 of plant life care so you got time to subscribe and catch up before the next episode is out! I look forward to seeing you over there and hearing your feedback to better help me shape the tutorials Happy growing friend!
LegacyMarketFarm
LegacyMarketFarm
@2ofyn52aUdHza4Y, Sounds very good man. & yes the wider the gap during the right time of growth is beneficial to what we are trying to do. In veg & early flower pre week 3 we don't want that wide of a gap or we get stretch.
2ofyn52aUdHza4Y
2ofyn52aUdHza4Y
@LegacyMarketFarm, Thanks for taking the time to share this info. I have an AC Infinity filter and fan system with the controller and app and have been tracking all of these metrics and trying to keep them within reasonable ranges so far. I had looked online and thought the range from light to dark was supposed to be 10 degrees and capped at 80F on the high side but that is good to know that I can let the temp get a bit higher during light and not have to cool the temperature down as much during lights off, this will be easier to maintain. VPD has been on average 1.43 and a high of 2.90 so far, was trying to keep it in a range of 0.7-2.5 and will more closely watch the high and low ends. As for soil I tested it after a week and it was low at 5.4 so I watered with distilled water with nutrients at a PH of 7.4 for one day and then have been using PH 6.3 water since. I can lower that to 6.1 moving forward but from what I read the soil PH should be ok as long as I always am watering with the proper PH water moving forward. This VPD guide is great thank you!!!