Fast Buds run.

The buffered coco is bs. Soon as water hits it. It will rise in pH. The coco is what is holding your pH up likely. You can't treat it like coco with the soil in substrate. All you can do is do what you are with lower pH water. Once you start adding nutrients in a week or two it should start bringing the pH down. Can also switch to 1 of three lights on in vegging vs 2. Light requirements are very low in vegging. Remember to get run off when you start adding nutrients. To avoid salt build up in soil from plant foods. Also good to test this run off for pH and ppm or ec. A water pH tester is needed. Avoid cheap yellow ph tester ones. Will have to monitor it closely. So far looking good

Hey Growmie, I would say go ahead and use all three, not only will it help prevent mold and mildew but it should bring in enough air to help strengthen the main stalk.

Seeds do not have identical genes, they are unique individual organic beings. All seeds grow differently, even though they come from the same parent. There is no guarantee that 2 seeds from the same packet came from the same plant either. Breeders may grow hundreds of seed plants to provide enough seeds for a year or more supply in a global market. There is no guarantee that even the pollen that was used for seed breeding came from only one male plant either. Differences in growth rates have nothing to do with ventilation or 8 hours in sprouting time, it is just that seeds DO NOT have identical genes and grow to their own individual schedule........only clones have identical genes. If you learned biology properly, you would understand the principles of "genetic re-combination".........the main reason for differences in seeds.

Hey Growmie, There isn’t an exact age or size to start LST on autos, in theory, you can start as soon as the first true leaves grow, most recommend starting training as soon as your plant can reach the edge of the pot, around 10-15cm or 4 - 6 inches. So technically you can start now, just be gentle and the young plant will be fine.

Siema GROWER, I would not worry so much on the run of pH because you are growing in 60% Soil 25% Coco Coir 15% Perlite so as the water going through it will change the PH of water so if the pH is in the range of 6-7ph it should be fine but watch on the EC because that will indicate if you have nuts build up

No problem.. I’m not here for points - I’m here to displace shitty answers. If you’re a photo guy - stick with it. Aside from a SELECT few breeders doing autos right - most just end up mids - and that’s IF you grow them out perfectly.. Just peruse the auto diaries on here. Judge for yourself

No please do not defoliate it would be a waste. There are only 2 reasons to use defoliation. The first reason is that leaves are stacked on eachtoher. When this happens than they are blocking the airflow and moist can not escape from the bottom of the leaves causing mold or fungal. The second reason is that large leaves on the top of the plant block a huge amount of light for the rest of the plant. These are the only 2 reasons to use defoliation. Any other reason is just damaging the plant and decrease yields.

You've got a couple of problems I can see and one is certainly a bit of overfeeding... I'd get your EC down to 1.2 at the most... But your pH is way too high here as well... that's preventing good absorbtion of potassium ... while the tips MAY indicate nute burn, if the burning/yellowing continues on up the edge of those leaves, you're looking at a potassium deficiency... You can easily add a small dose of PK boost to your nutes in the event that's what this turns into.... but get your EC down... at their age, 1.0-1.2 would be the ideal EC range... and get the pH down to 6.0-6.2... Good luck!

Your mix sulphur into the topsoil and water it in, its that easy. a little goes a long way don't want to over do it. Can be found at most garden supply stores. if you have 4 meters all saying the same thing, then they are prob right, I don't know the models you use or brands so can't comment further on it. The one I use does require calibration quite a bit and I have solutions that help me get it back into range. a 4.01 a 7.01 and a storage solution. I think the advice of not worrying to much on PH is good. my first couple of grows I did not use a PH pen at all. Next grow can focus on the composure of your medium for what works best for you. Like grannie said, anytime you tag someone in the questions part of the website it does not notify the user. there is an inbox function on the site, its in the lower right hand corner, green/white paper airplane button, you can reach out there to other users. Good Luck!

Check this link for all the information about watering when growing inside coco coir. There are 5 articles about it that explain everything and really helped me starting to understand how to water and how measure and reading the values. Here is the links: https://www.cocoforcannabis.com/watering_coco/

btw... I just did a bit of research on using sulfur and came up with an article that makes things pretty clear (at least to me)... it says, in part: "Elemental sulfur and aluminum sulfate are the most common amendments used to decrease the soil pH. Elemental sulfur is the safest option to decrease soil pH; it is relatively inexpensive and available via local agriculture suppliers and garden centers. Unfortunately, it is slow to react. Elemental sulfur must go through two processes, a biological process and a chemical process, before soil pH is decreased. This often takes 3 to 6 months of warm soil temperatures when soil biology is active. Aluminum sulfate reacts in the soil very quickly as it must only undergo a chemical process. The change in pH happens within days or weeks. However, aluminum sulfate is not an ideal amendment because requires more material than elemental sulfur to reduce the soil pH and aluminum is toxic to plants."