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(2) Spider Farmer SF-1000 Lights are on the ceiling @ 10% power. 20hours/Day
Polar-Aire 4” USB powered personal fan, corner mounted, running constant airflow across pot surfaces.
Using the AC Infinity Inline 6”
Ventilation Speed set: 2
I’m not using humidity or temp setting right now as this seems the most appropriate. I just want to keep exchanging the air for now. Humidity flux isn’t a concern for me right now.
Day 1:
Low/High - 65F at night, 74F during the day.
Moisture Levels: Averaging 45% RH
Fly Traps: CLEAN
Pot was hydrated to 60% total mass, using nutrients. Mostly inoculants with Epsom salts and a lil cellulase.
Seed was planted approx 1/3 inches deep. Covered and watered in with nutrients ([email protected]) using a spray bottle for gentle and even application with out disrupting the soil.
Day 2:
Low/High - 65F at night, 71F during the day.
Moisture Levels: Averaging 53% RH
Fly Traps: CLEAN
No signs of mold or mildew.
I raised the moisture levels as to slow down the evaporative process. Rehydrated with spray bottle using nutrients ([email protected])
Fresh nutrients were made as to maintain optimal microbe concentrations.
Day 3:
Low/High - 64F at night, 72F during the day.
Moisture Levels: Averaging 50% RH
Fly Traps: CLEAN
No signs of mold or mildew.
Soil rehydration frequency has been manageable. Beginning to rehydrate with RO ([email protected]) Again I will be utilizing the spray bottle throughout the entire germination process.
I have been mixing only 32oz ratios of nutrients and used the entire volume during the first two rehydrations, focusing on the middle for deeper saturation, while the edges are still partly dry. Today I only spray until the surface is 4/5ths wet with the center saturated.
This is the “soak”. The enzymes and aerated properties of the top layer allow for healthy media during full saturation while using enzymes.
Day 4:
Low/High - 66F at night, 73F during the day.
Moisture Levels: Averaging 48% RH
Fly Traps: CLEAN
No signs of mold or mildew.
Ventilation Setting: Fan Speed 3
Light Intensity (Dimmer Switch @ 20%)
Rehydrated media with RO water and enzymes at regular concentrations for this week. [email protected]
Day 5:
Low/High - 68F at night, 75F during the day.
Moisture Levels: Averaging 50% RH
Fly Traps: CLEAN
No signs of mold or mildew.
Ventilation Setting: Humidity 51% RH
Light Intensity (Dimmer Switch @ 75%)
Seed popped today, making today Day 1 officially!
So I suspect the Golden Goat to have subtle mag def. I’ve upped the Epsom salts a bit to help. Also the Mandarine XL Auto is amazing and this discoloration in its leaves I believe to be from getting handled and snagging on the trellis when bending through. I try to be delicate, but it shows.
I’ve not been taking meticulous account of things but here’s as of day 19…
Day 19:
Low/High - 66F at night, 76F during the day.
Moisture Levels: set @ 56% RH
Moisture level fluctuations from 54%-68% depending on time and temperature as well as moisture levels in the pot itself. As the pot gets dry I will lower the VPD a bit.
Fly Traps: CLEAN-w/ 2 fungus gnats (1/week) both located @ MXL
(MXL= Mandarine XL Auto)
No signs of mold or mildew.
Ventilation Setting: Humidity 57% RH
Light Intensity (Dimmer Switch @ 75%)
3” tall.
The Critical Purple Autoflower shares the tent: while exhibiting signs similar to mosaic virus, I believe this to not be the case, and instead a genetic pigment deformation possibly induced from the high UV LED lights. I’m only basing this theory of of other anecdotes. I’m not willing to test the contagion properties, but I’m going to pop a seed for just that purpose. Until then I wear gloves or wash hands and sterilize equipment before and after each plant until I can rule out a contagion or not.
Planing to update my feed and get some ppm measurements. Also I’m thinking the MXL is ready for a little Regalia and a foliar feed. Only thing is a 2 hour window from 3-5am! But I will feed a little Regalia and Venerate sometime this week.
Nutrient Notes: I mixed the food and pH’ed to 7. Then checked the ppm for something like 2350! So I diluted with pH 7 RO water until about 1050 ppm then I added the microbes (TPS Billions & Mammoth Urine).
So I like to bend my plants, especially autoflowers will receive a lot of LST. I’ll just bend downward a little bit to help redirect hormones. Except this morning, I discovered the white trellis was cutting into the main stem towards the top. So I configured some green-tape as padding. Then later, before I zip up the ten, I habitually give her one little final bend on her top, without fully taking in the magnitude of what I was about to do. Immediately as I began to bend, I heard a snap! I just pulled my hand away and looked. It honestly took me a second to realize what had happened as nothing fell over or changed position. Apparently the trellis was supporting the plant with the LST configuration. Upon inspection, I almost completely broke off the entire top two nodes, right at the point where the trellis began to lacerate the plant. So I supported it with a make shift crutch and left for work.
Day 25- morning before work, she looks okay!
Day 25:
morning before work, she looks okay!
Removed cast and tied down on opposite side of break. Hopefully the last of her training. All the work is in Veg, then the rest is downhill, smooth sailing!
Low/High - 66F at night, 76F during the day.
Moisture Levels: average @ 45% RH.
Ventilation Fan Speed: 2
Fly Traps: -w/ 4 fungus gnats (avg. 1/week avg)
No signs of mold or mildew.
Light Intensity (Dimmer Switch @ 55%)
4” tall.
Yeah I’m filling in the blanks, so I forget a lot of things. Other than the heater stopped working for a couple days total where the high was only 62F and Nights were 50F. But then back to the usual. Also I was feeding heavy as seen in the leaf clawing. So I backed off a bit. The nutrients and ppm posted is not accurate.
Yeah nutrients and ppm are not accurate. It’s close enough, but it’s a rough guess off the top of my head. I’ll try to take notes right away, that way I can remain accurate.
No signs of mold or mildew. No pests or bugs. A few caught in the fly traps but never any visible “free” fliers. The cold from the two days really had her looking sad and definitely upset her momentum. But now that the heater is back, she’s not freezing with a low of 50F and high of 68F. Within an hour or so of raising the temp back to 70+ (I went straight to 78F) she was looking way better, leaves peeking back up.
Lights are down at 30% for the night before going completely off for 4 hours. I’d say 30% for 4 Hours, then OFF for 4, then lights back on at 30% for another 2 and then back to 60% for the remaining time.
Im doing this because my Golden Goat pheno is showing increased levels of magnesium deficiency when the intensity is higher. Does that make sense? Maybe the pheno doesn’t like the high UV LED lights? The Blueberry S1 and Mandarine XL as well as the little Critical Purple auto are all managing the light fine. Except I did notice a subtle magnesium deficiency in the MXL at one point, in a few leaves. Maybe the plants would benefit from a larger vascular system?? The Blueberry S1 is just jamming! But I’m upping the CalMag in everyone to help mitigate the delay in the magnesium.
YES I could give more Epsom Salt. But a moderately heavy stack of Epsom Salts with a pH of 7, on top of a pH7 foliar feed of Epsom Salt, to immediately see continued signs develop towards a deficiency suggests another element at play. Maybe it’s still not enough Epsom salts?… Or: maybe something to do with the light is creating a high demand for magnesium and thus, the output outweighs the input. Either way, I’m going to be upping the Calcium input to build a bigger vascular system to hopefully solve this dilemma. It’s only noticeable in the GoldenGoat pheno. Barely visible in the MXL and only in one or two leaves total. Whereas the GoldenGoat has every leaf that hits 40-60% maturity develops a small indication of magnesium deficiency, yet it never progresses.
Anyways, the Mandarine XL Auto is cruising along just fine. Also I like the anthocyanins coming out in some leaves. Although I attribute that to the high UVs.
85 Days from germination to harvest!
Sorry for the lack of accurate information.
Just some pics from finish. Honestly- I never finished the diary so I’m leaving it as is. Was extra sweet and pungent and especially extra frosty. Not to mention fast!