candida third grow attempt

@GreenChick, im a grateful grower fan as well.. kinda disappointed he hasn't uploaded any new videos. but try nebulahaze on www.growweedeasy.com, she will teach you literally every thing you need to know about growing.

@GreenChick, too bad the grateful grower doesn't seem to make new videos

@GreenChick, Hm your soil mix sounds good and it seems that you use cal mg right with your ro (unfortuanly i have no experience with RO). Unfortunaly i have no more idee what is causing your issues 🤔 I recommend to use your grow question. Im pretty sure some experienced growers will help you 👍 I keep following your grow, just dont give up, we only learn from mistakes 👍✌️ best wishes

@KrautFabrik, I don't know what it is. I've read books, blogs, videos about these issues. I thought that any lightening/yellowing was usually a nute deficiency. And that this type of yellowing was usually a calcium def. I am using RO water, ppm around 20 before I add nutes. I've been watering/feeding about every 3 days, and the top 1/2 of the fabric pots are bone dry, but heavy/wet on the bottom 1/2. Yesterday, I watered in a ring around the plant, rather than directly at the stem, thx to a suggestion by hufflepuff. Based on my last two failed grows where I don't think I fed enough, this time around I'm trying to make sure they get their nutes. I didn't start feeding until I noticed some yellowing on leaf edges (week 3-4?). My soil mix is 3 parts organic soil, 1 part perlite, 1 part vermiculite. I wanted the extra drainage due to my overwatering problem on my last grow. As I understand it, the most common nute deficiencies are calcium and magnesium. That's why I think that the upward leaf curl at the edges are a MG def, which is why I've fed a light epson salt feed about every 2 weeks so far. That's the problem that's killed every grow to date: brown, twisted upward leaf curl, brown travels up the leaf until the entire leaf is brown, crunchy. Then same problem moves up the plant. I can show you pics from my other grows if you want. Thanks for your time and input. I just want to grow some back medicine, but this has been discouraging me for over a year now.

@GreenChick, i'm really sure this is a nutriets burning caused by cal mag. Last year i tried the first time cal mag at a guerillia grow and only 2.5 ml at the beginning of flower killed a 1m tall cheese autoflowering. I believe you dont need cal mag if you use soil and tap water. It makes only sence if you use RO or distilled water. (I only use it in the first 1 or 2 weeks of flower as some extra). I would recommend to flush them and wait a week to see if they recover. And give them less water, let the soil dry befor you water again, the roots need air too ✌️ I know that some growers use a high nutriets level but i would recommend to every beginner to start with no nuts and only feed them if there is a defizit. You may get not the biggest yield but you will learn a lot about the plants needs in each part of Life cycle. As i started my first Outdoor grow (with pots) some years ago i didnt use any nutriets and had only some N defizit at the end of flower. And yes the yield was good too. 😂 And for future grows i recommend a good all mix soil with some extra perlitte. You will need a longer time no nutriets and less problems. (you can easily veg 8 weeks without anything). Only the first 1-3 weeks i would use a small pot with some soil with less nutrierts/light mix. This year was the first time i used cheap soil for my balcony grow and its the first time i have to deal with much nutriets issues -> i will never use a cheap soil again 😅 Best wishes and keep going 👍

@growdoctordc, WORD.......

@Stick, my first grows were pH'd to 6.0 and it went south each time, BUT, maybe other factors contributed as well. It's hard to pinpoint the problems, when it could be one thing or 6 things. Do you think I should apply every suggestion you had at once, or process of elimination by 1 at a time? I'm concerned that if I change everything at once, (like I did my last 2 failed grows), then the problems may persist and I won't be able to narrow it down. My watering dilemma is that the bottom of the pots are pretty heavy, but the tops are bone dry. If I continue watering at a normal pace, will I root rot the bottoms? (My first grow I think I overwatered to death). Previously I measured the runoff, and it measured about 6.5. I need to figure out a fan situation to cool it down. Right now I have one fan at the top, blowing down on the plants, gut it's also circulating hot air. Today it was 90 F in the tent. Great comment about the hot environments and heavy nutes. I didn't know that.

@GreenChick, you can ask however you want 😁 but yes, maybe a short discription of the issue/situation. ✌️

@GreenChick, for sure. I will follow you. Good luck on your clones!

@MaryJaneUSA, I'm using RO, since my well water was running about 380 ppm. RO brought it down to about 12ppm. I have a soil ph tester arriving today. And I'll buy another ph tester today from amazon. But you have to agree to continue checking in with me. Update on this week: I finally got a LED shop light, 6500k for clones, so I moved a tray of dead clones from my veg tent, under the shop light, and about 5/10 are recovering. Amazing, the difference the right light can make.😶

@GreenChick, question, how do you measure your ph before giving your nutes to the plants? Is your water clear? I am curious.

@GreenChick, With cal mag. You can give a lot more than is required and not hurt your plants. it is just costing you a bit more. My first grow. I used 1 tsp per gallon. I found 1/2 that was more than fine with straight ro water. 5ml = 1 tsp For wanting to see your roots. That is an easy fix. I do the same. Just take another clear cup. Wrap it with tape so you can't see into it. Cut the bottom out and slide it over the cup your plant is in like a sleeve. Any time you want to check your roots. Just pull the first cup that the plant is in up. And you now can see the roots 😀 I started using the armor from a friends recommendation. It really is great stuff. I run it regardless of what my nutes may have in them. There is nothing wrong with wanting to see through for making a decision in my book. Any advantage you can get to make growing is a plus for me. 👍

@justright, Thank you for the thoughtful reply. the only reason I use the clear cups is to see if the roots are growing alright, but I get your point. As I SLOWLY get better as a grower, hopefully I won't need a visual to help me to make decisions. My water is RO, but I add 5ml of CaMg+ per gallon, from GO Box. Do you think I should go over the recommended because of my RO, or stick to their recipe? Armor SI looks interesting. I'm not sure if any of my nutes already has silica in them. I'm using GO Box, Azos and Mykos. I know my bloom mix has potassium in it.

@GreenChick, a little bit 👌 stronger than full strength in feed. yep for both ;-)

@CRiSPrGrow, are you referring to the purple stems, or to my 2 small yellowing clones, or both. I'll make the foliar spray, full strength?

@BeefWellingtons, I probably didn't make it clear in my entry. I have a flower tent and a veg tent. The bloom nutes I listed were for the flower tent only. That mix is bloom - 10ml, camg - 5ml, bud - 2.5ml, marine 10ml. veg tent is grow 10ml, camg 5ml, root 10ml, weed 5ml, marine 10ml. Then I'll dilute it to my description - ie 50% str, 60%strength. But you bring up a good point about the ph. My soil is running about 7-8ph, but my RO is about 5.9-6.1. I thought that the lower RO would balance the higher soil.

@Mrs_Larimar, thx for the suggestion. I've been spraying soil once a day at the beginning of the light cycle. After 3 days, I've noticed considerably less gnats.

@Experimentgreen, I just ordered some testing powders yesterday and should have them soon. So, weird coincidence - My first pen started working briefly, and both pens (which had been calibrated) showed my RO water as 5.9, while the drops color chart showed closer to 6.5. If you look at the picture I'll post in a few days comparing the pen to the color chart, what do you think? Am I partially color blind? In the meantime I've been foliar the two yellowing clones with calmag and they're just getting worse. Yesterday I flushed them, and the ppm was only about 140. So not nearly enough nutes right?

@GreenChick, I think this is like déjà vu, I had bought a brand new set a ph and ppm and IA dial them in with the powders they were working good and all the sudden they went on the Fritz and were reading crazy numbers. It's probably good that you ordered another one just in case but if they take batteries I would almost say I'm try switching out the batteries and retesting them that's what I did not do and I should have. Do you have any extra testing powders? If not I know you can measure things like pure/distilled water should have ph of 7. I checked with my water company and our hose water is roughly 6.8 and my ph pen had confirmed that, so when it went crazy i just stuck with it...but i need to pick up a new one that's a little better quality i think.

@Experimentgreen, based on another recommendation, I bought a second ph pen, but it reads my RO as 5.7, while the drops method shows 6.5. So I'm thinking about buying some ph buffer powder. And yes, I used the powder that came with it and thought that I had correctly dialed in my ph readings. I know the soil ph meter I got reads about 8ph, but the runoff was reading about 6.5. What do you think?

@GreenChick,Maybe your rhizo bacteria Colony is not big enough and not breaking down your organic nutriments

@Tonino, I randomly decided to test the ph of my feeds and found that it was hovering around 4.5 - 5.0. I never checked this before because the GO BOX said it wasn't necessary to ph my feed. Do you think this is contributing to some of my problems?

@Stick, I've been working on that. My issue is that while the top inch might be dry, below that is heavy and wet. I don't want to risk drowning my plants like I did on my first grow. Do you still think I should water when the lower 1/2 pot is wet and heavy? Also, I've read that it's better to underwater than it is to overwater. Do you agree with that? Thanks for the input. The more the better, as I'm consuming unhealthy amounts of cannabis info and trying to pick and choose what I need to apply. 😀

@CRiSPrGrow, Agreed. @GreenChick you must apply a wet-dry cycle with quick phases, something like 2 days wet, 1 day dry ...

@Tonino, pretty happy. Wish I could auto-diagnose some of my issues. I'm guessing alot is environment, which I can't really control. My basement leaks every time we get rain, so humidity is always super high, and the basement is pretty cold, but a space heater would just get sucked right out of the room.