Started In The WC Now We'Re Here!

I guess I'm wondering how it is you're getting an EC of 1 here since you're only giving them a root enhancer. But that's for another day... If all the other ladies are doing well, and this little one isn't growing as strongly as they are, I guess I wouldn't worry about it to be honest. She looks good by herself - I don't see any problems showing on her leaves and she looks to be a good size for her age... you just have to consider her as an individual who's doing her thing her way. Different seeds - even those from the same strain and the same breeder purchased at the same time - may have differences which can probably be attributed to genetics. Autoflowers, in particular, are not consistently identical. Now is about the time when you want to introduce some grow nutes to all of them - start off slowly to see how they react (1/4 dose of what your nute line recommends). If all goes well and no problems erupt, you can increase the dose to 1/2 next week. Be careful with them - I've never seen an autoflower that can tolerate full strength doses at any time of their lives... I think she'll be fine - maybe smaller than her sisters - but fine nonetheless... Good luck...

those plants are old enough to gas it... keep pushing... You have a fce3000. this is a powerful light made for 12/12 schedule and a 3x3 space. that light on an 18/6 can cover 50% more. 9 * 1.5 = 13.5sq feet. so a bit over 3' x bit over 4' is a good footprint that properly hits the edges and corner (free lux app on phone can help here) ... it'll probably be at least 24-30" away if you want to run at 100% for 18 hours per day. becareful with this light on a 18/6 schedule. Use the spec sheet suggestions for vege cycle as far as area of coverage. prolly want to push that feed to 650-750ppm (either calculated from labeels of products used or an EC pen on a 500scale.. EC is the same between products but how those TDS pens calculate ppm from EC differs -- 1.3-1.5EC is safer suggestion that won't differe based on equipment used) you'll be providing about 40DLI if you have it set up right for the area. this is about as much as you can provide per day given ambient co2... this isn't meant to be written in stone... you still have some trial and error left to do through observation and reacting to the plants to learn where that upper boundary is... lack of light is easy to see... length of internode will quicly tell you that. too much light, if barely so, is more difficult to see. sometimes tehy look find for 2-3 days after increasing intensity, then at end of week you notice severe drooping at end of day for long periods of time... sometimes it takes a few days to build up, if giving too much light. a delated effect of the cause is more difficult to recognize. so when you make a change, give it time to react. take notes to avoid the process next time, or at minimum slim it down to a simple adjustment per plant genetic / slightly different environment each time you grow.

depending on intake and exhaust situation you may have to climate-control entire sorrounding room to be effective. AC is your only option to control temps effectively... an exhaust can rarely changen it far from ambient temps. is it large enough for full room? if so, it'll function well... since you are likely changing air out one way o another from tent, it would need to be capable to cool entire room... could it work inside tent? maybe... as long as it can keep up ith what is exhausted from tent.. that would effectively increase "Volume" that it needs to cool. might be bit smaller than sorrounding room in that context, but not too much. RH might be controlled by exhaust, if exhausting to entirely separate area and the RH issue stems from transpiration of plants and not the ambient RH% in your region. if plants are the cause, then you need to get a dhum for sure as you can't pipe it anwhere if the origin is simply the plants in the tent transpiing... they gotta breathe to live and that will send out water vapor into local atmosphere. in both cases it's better to get somethign a bit larger than necessary -- it will run less and probably save watts overtime despite more watts used when running --- also, increases longevity with fewer hours of use per year. appropriately sized dehumidifiers add a lot of heat to the room... FYI. So, if you needed an AC before, it is even more necessary with a dehum. 30c is usualyl okay... you can combat higher temps with elevated RH to a point... you don't want to create an environment ripe for molds and microbial growth, though. (refer to VPD chart to see viable combinations of temp/RH% while staying under 65% is probably best for any mature plant - clones/seedlings is a different context and shot-term needs). But, while it may seem too warm, if oyu don't see symptoms related to heat, it's probably okay. 30C as a max is a guideline, not a rule written in stone.

it's an auto, so at this point relative to you gaden it's gonna grow as large as it will grow regardless... you got a little vege growth left so i'd wory more about training to space things out safely than new growth that may not become susbstantial enough to make moe than larf... timing is the key on that side growth and whehter you want it or is it just going to be a "sucker" of resources. breaking apical dominance isn't always a good thing. need enough time afterward of remaining vege gowth to be worth it. you don't have a ton of stem elongation / leaf growth remaining (aka vege growth), so i'd only LST to properly space out branches and allow for best light penetration into canopy...

Genetics and environmentals tend to play a bigger role in its terp profile then products do. Keep temps in range and don't let it over dry when chopping. A proper cure will do wonders vs a bottle of anything but again that's all based on its genetics in the end. Some plants don't smell as much and other have different terp profiles. Good Luck!