OG Kush auto-Herbies beginner mix

High Susan, you want to prevent root bounding inside the pot for that reason you want a type of pot that breathes to air prune the roots. This will not only prevent root bounding but also stimulates the plant to shoot more roots inside the pot. I use air pots and smart pots and I personally prefer smart pots above air pots. The roots grow through the fabric and when finished a grow the roots look thicker and more developed than all the other pots that I've tried included the air pots. But there are many reasons how large a plant can grow that includes the size of the pot and your pots are really big and that is perfect for the amount of plants and the size of your grow space. I prefer more plants in smaller pots to keep them small and create a SOG instead of a few larger plants. In my opinion smaller plants in large amounts are easier to manage and when you lose some on the way it doesn't really decrease the yield. So that was just the pot and that the size of the pot can control how large a plant can grow. But for a large harvest you want to give them enough light, the right amount and type of nutrition's during the whole grow and a lot of love 😘

Don't top or "fim" autos and try and avoid (unnecessary) defoliation. Also, never, ever grow at 24/0! A bit of low stress training like bending or directing branches is all good and fairly easy to master. Just leaving them alone to do their own thing is also completely acceptable. The only person you need to please is yourself, not internet warriors! You can start bending your plants when they have 5 nodes or so, training too early can stress them and it really is never too late to start LST while ever the plants are still in veg. Training branches is just a matter of waitng for them to be long enough for training! For your first grow I would suggest concentrating on watering, feeding, lighting (18/6) and general growing practices and once you have a bit more of an understanding of these things, try more "advanced" methods on your next grows perhaps.

Not much you can do here... you can't add in 4" more soil. What you CAN do is to treat the growth below the lip of the pot as if it was below a scrog net and lollipop it (trim off all leaves/small branches) ... they're not going to get appreciable amount of light as her canopy is going to completely cover it and so will produce popcorn buds at best... Not the end of the world! Good luck!

TDS pens measure EC and convert to ppm using a simple factor. Depending on the brand of the equipment it may convert to different PPM numbres... So, use EC for the least possible miscommunication. Most products in north america are on the "500" scale.. so 1.5 EC is 750ppm on those brands, but may be different with another brand. Whne irrigating or fertilizing, always ensure entire pot gets wet... usually a minor amount of runoff is necessary, but if you pay attention over time and consistently water at same pot-weight, you can dial it in pretty damn well. soil ec... slurry? slurries and runoff is not a perfect indicator of the substrate... it can be useful info to track.. make sure you measure at same points of runoff or use same volume of soil and same volume of water of a known pH before you mix it up and measure. it'll always be a bit off from what the soil actually is, but over time you will learn normal range and how to react if it exits that happy zone. 1.3-1.5 is what hydro/soilless typically uses. (slight increase between irrigation in soilless with a little evaporation occuring) In soil you likely see it spike higher then drop back down as you alternate in some patter with water and fertilized water.. whatever that pattern may be.. every other? every third? "on demand" will typically work out better so, more fertigations with slightly lower concetrations are probably better than gassing it one time, then feeding water for a couple gos. and that's where your testing over time can help you dial it in... you want to find a dose and frequency that maintains a certain aamount of nutes... neither dropping or rising over time. it may need to be higher in soil with soil nutes... if oyu have to rely on bacteria fixating or chelating molecules in order for the plant to uptake them and use them, even though that stuff cannot fit into roots in original form, it still increases conductivity of the liquid it is dissolved into.... so yu get higher EC but as far as what enters the plant is lower. (otherwise it's evaporation-caused spike or simply feeding too high of one.)

I like my 2x4 tent. It works great for me. bigger tent = more plants, that's about it, note that with bigger tents you need bigger equipment as well. think lights, ventilation, fans, nutrients, pots, exct. I don't think I will upgrade past a 2x4, maybe a 3x5 at one point. I like the rectangle shape vs square. It works well with my lights. Some lights are designed for a square tent vs rectangle though. Max plants in a tent is estimated 1 plant per square foot with aorund 100w of light. If you got a 2x2 and a 200W light you can grow 2 good plants in there. Or one really big one. I have grown 3 plants in a smaller tent under 100w before, it worked well, they did not get as big as they could have if they had more light/room but I still loved every bit of it. Good Luck!

I use two lights usually incase some grow taller I can dedicate a side to raise the light for them and keep it lower on the other plants. Really depends what ur trying todo. But that's why I use two lights instead of one bigger ..

Bio Canna make "Bio-Vega" and "Bio-Flores". B.A.C. make "Organic Grow" and Organic Bloom". All these are complete fertilizers with one bottle for veg and one bottle for flowering and both lines can be used for hydro or soil cultivation. I have used both these lines for years and can recommend them highly. Generally when growing in soil, fertilizers will need to be started somewhere between week 4 and week 8, depending on the quality and nutrition levels of the soil to begin with. Generally starting with half strength nutrients is the safest way to gauge how your plants react.......it is far easier to give extra if needed, but very hard to rescue over fed plants.

As for the stems I would say like genetics I'm running LA confidential from Herbies seeds and I have purple stocks and leaves in flower...if it's not red I wouldn't to much you could move the light a smidgen or change the direction of the fan which could be the issue as well check your VPD and DLI as the more parameters you can dial in the better...Check out tent buddy great app PPFD calculator and DLI plus has VPD chart calculator as well...Good luck they look nice

Calcium and magnesium deficiency......simple to fix, add a cal/mag supplement to your fertilizer line up! Might be a bit late to affect a cure, but it should stop it from getting worse. Pity you went so hard on the defoliation, those buds were relying on the leaves you removed to make the energy the buds need to grow to their biggest size. Over fed too btw...........autos can usually get by just fine on half strength nutrients. Remember too, in soil it is a schedule of plain water/plain water/feed/plain water/plain water/feed.........