Illuminatos Halloween Edition

You're going to want to transplant these dry and then soak the entire substrate so there are no dry pockets at all... you'll probably have to add more soil once you've done that. From there on, bottom feeding/watering is a great way to keep the soil from compacting too much and allowing oxygen into the roots. Good luck!

At this stage, I would concentrate more on giving it a root enhancer rather than regular nutes although a LIGHT dose of nutes wouldn't be bad unless your soil already has nutrients in it... You need to give it some time to recover from the stress of the transplant. So this week, I'd water with just some root enhancers and then next week you can start the nutes... As for the topping, you don't want to do that right away either since that is also a very stressful technique and the plants are far too young... let them recover from the transplant first and then when they have 5 or 6 nodes, you can top. Red stems, btw, simply indicate stress and that is generally a nute stress or pH out of range... some purple strains will have naturally red stems so don't confuse the two. Good luck!

Red stems can occur naturally in some strains - I'm not familiar with these two but you can do a bit of research on it... other than that, red stems will indicate some stress is going on but, like - for example - a calcium deficiency will leave marks on leaves, even when you correct the deficiency, the leaves that are damaged won't be repaired... so some stems may just never go back to being the normal, good color. If the new stems that are coming on are a good color, I'd take that as a sign you've solved her problem... if they're all red, I'd look into the genetics. As far as height is concerned, Blood Orange Haze may just be a smaller plant than the others or it may have been stunted - I would personally think she's just a smaller plant at this point. And even if she was stunted a little bit, I certainly wouldn't replace her - she can still give you a good harvest down the road. Good luck...

The lower temps might have slowed them down a little but not much... I wouldn't worry about anything - especially root rot! Not from that length of power outage... root rot is going to come from them being overly watered for days and days at a time... Soaking them for a transplant isn't going to be an issue! Good luck....

In my opinion you would be surprised how much stretch you can get after sex shows. A little LST and you could do quite well with these plants…. Sometimes doing less will help I know you just want them to thrive and they will, I don’t like transplanting autos as it causes me too much stress, mephisto genetics are resilient and will bounce back in my experience. Maybe try and add some worm castings. But if you decide to restart I would suggest try using your final pot and just water around the seedling and just use more water as they get bigger. Good luck!

if you plant more than 1-2 you will inevitably encounter this problem.. and less often when doign 1-2 too. so, it's a godo idea to plant an exta 25% or 50% and then you can cull the weak and ensure you have the right numbr of healthy plants accodingn to plan.

nah... you aren't goingn to have ramifications from hard tap water beyond your humidifier wick (if that top) degrading sooner or just more white dust settling on things if you have the other type. use a deminarlization cartridge/tablet, if worried. pH is no concern in this context either... given common ranges of tap water. the real concern would be a dity/tainted reservoir... keep it clean or you'll blast pathogens all over the place.

Personally, I would not ever re-use any soil, no matter how little use it has had and always plant new plants in new soil. This prevents disease and pest issues as well as avoiding any problems with fertilizer salt build up, pH etc. The soil is usually the cheapest part of any grow, so why risk the quality of your plants by trying to save a few dollars?

I'm definitely with Organoman here... I see you've just pitched some autoflowers and if you decide to go this route, you'll be pitching these as well. I start all my autoflowers (and so far, they're the only things I grow) in ProMixHP which has zippitydodah (zero) nutrients because I want to control the what, the when and the how much of any nutes they get... And autoflowers do not like nor do they need any nutrients at all for the first couple weeks of their life.... and when they ARE introduced to the plant, I start them out with 1/4 strength to make sure they're going to be tolerated. So, as far as your plan is concerned, I'm not in favor at all... sorry! Good luck

more power while maintaing similar PPFD at canopy will provide more light to lower areas --- more sphotons bouncing off walls at more obstuse angels. basica geometry at play... Now, this will technically increase the light hitting lower areas but also much less efficient use of watts -- way more lost to absorption and each doubling of distance traveled decreases intensity to 1/4th of what it was half way back to the light (inverse sqaure law applies.) e.g. if you find the optimal point for PPFD is 18" away... then you raise light 24" that is a 1.33 incremental change (6/18 = .33). 1 / 1.33^2 *100% = 56.5% of previous intensity at 18" and specifically measuring within same area of canopy as before... just from a 6" increase in distance. going other way is just as sdastic.. 6" less is 1/.66^2 *100 = 230% increase in intensity lowering from 18" to 12".... But, a law of thermodynamics tells us no energy is lost or gained... so, those phtons are still there.. they are just spread out more... more bounces off a 90% reflective wall means more photons that will never hit the plant (not technically "lost"). More light will hit at very obtuse angels and then hit the gound etc etc... scatted all ove the place -- this is why it should increase light to lower areas.. is it worth it? i don't know... at some point the cost won't justify it.

Really your plant would need to be much bigger to have to/ Want to lollipop. That's really only for monster 80cm before flipping you lollipop or less. But, as they are short, leaf tucking LST. Its late in the process but you still can remove the odd fan leaf blocking out the plant. And turn the heat up during flowering and change your timing to 18-6 as it takes 2hrs for a plant to sleep. Then make it as cold as you can and you should be able to stretch them a little bit. You'll need a 6-7c temp change.

85 is kinda of high and 83 is better but still in the upper range for temps 80 would be ideal but none of those matter if you're humidity isn't I'm chekc...VPD is very important and is one of the main parameters that need to be on point in order to allow your plants to transpire and uptake water and nutrients... If you run the temp at 80F you're RH should be 75 for veg to keep you in between 0.80 and 0.95 at a 0.87... in flower 80F and 68Rh would put you in between 0.96 and 1.15 at a solid 1.12...Anything above 1.15 is stressing the plants and you'll want to adjust the temp down and RH down the longer you're in flower until you reach close to 66.2F and 50RH for a VPD of 1.10 ish.... Tent buddy is a great app for keeping track of VPD and also PPFD and DLI which are light intensity for the plants and will show you were those need to be for each stage of growth... I recommend inkbird thermostat and also the humidity controller they're the best I found on the market for the best price and work amazing kept my tent in check with ease...Good luck hope ya get this figured out...

Hey, so I see a few issues. 1stly you are showing signs of cal def and them generally been hungry. This isn't because the lack of nutrients its the how you are using them..big bud is only meant to be used for the 1st 2 wks. And bud candy carboload are very similar in design. There is slight differences but very similar..so drop 1 of them and after a few weeks give 1 a try after dropping the other. 2 shouldn't be used together.. start with a L or 2 of water and your plant will start eating again..drop those those and after your soil dries out some cal or calmag. I use cal powder and Epson salt or just 1 when needed. What you are using has mag in them. So you are short on cal. Big bud should be done too. Its just to help the pre flower process and thats it pal. Drop carboload and keep the bud candy and if you like after a few weeks switch to carboload. But really bud candy is the better one. Keep a steady Ppm..Do your base nutrient mix before adding any bud candy as these are your bread and butter. Just with base nutrients u wanna be in the 5-700ppm range and then apply 1-2 of these, you can split up the different resins/and bud enhancers into 2 dif feeds during a grow week. And you can give a 250ppm (tap included with a cal/mag or just cal) If you need anymore help feel free to DM me. I started my 1st grows with these. Good luck