"Hermeticum" C#7

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The Corpus Hermeticum translated by G.R.S. Mead II. To Asclepius

The Corpus Hermeticum translated by G.R.S. Mead III. The Sacred Sermon

The Corpus Hermeticum translated by G.R.S. Mead IV. The Cup or Monad

Refurbished soil HVAC system, and increased airflow. To maximize your yield, always aim for 40 moles, or 40,000,000 μmol, per day. Here is how much PPFD is needed per second for each phase of cannabis growth to achieve the DLI of 40 moles of light per day. I picked up a Quantum PAR Meter, very happy!😁 PAR Meter will show me how much useful radiation between 4-700nm the plant is getting from any given direction. Seedling phase (18hr cycle): 200–300 μmol m-2 s-1 Vegetative phase (18hr cycle): 617 μmol m-2 s-1 Flowering phase (12hr cycle): 925 μmol m-2 s-1, (1500 μmol m-2 s-1 @1500ppm co2) (ballpark). Anything above 2000 PPM is harmful to both the grower and the crops. The tent is currently reaching 3-400umol ms 1s at soil level (42" inches from light) and 1100umol-1300umol @ 25" Inches. The Corpus Hermeticum translated by G.R.S. Mead V. Though Unmanifest God Is Most Manifest

Feels like growth just grinds to a halt, the plant went from giving a majority of its produced energy into the main cola, now it has 4,5,6 or more side stems that are "closer" to the main light source, and the plant takes time to evaluate this predicament, the intelligence is pretty ruthless and will redistribute energy across remaining stems. With a little bit of experience, you can just pull the main stem a bit further down or up until you find the sweet spot, and micro-adjust until you are satisfied. Developing 4,5,6 main stems creates a feeling of growth grinding to a halt. Just a lot more shit to do across a broader space, the plant will grow in unison. *Future me now knows this is called "Apicial Dominance". The Corpus Hermeticum translated by G.R.S. Mead VI. In God Alone Is Good And Elsewhere Nowhere

There is always that one future cola that wants to shoot up above the rest, bend it in whichever direction needs filling, and try to keep the bends as natural as possible, later when the stems harden if it is unnaturally twisted it can cause problems when it transitions to the hard thick stem, leaving it weak, brittle and prone to snapping off. Plants all have 9 finger leaves and seem to be just chilling for now! I enjoy seeing leaves relaxed they get a "lazy" look about them, the sweet spot, not too much, not too little, and a stark contrast when they switch to hard sharp satellites in early flower with the flowering spectrum in full swing. Hitting 30-35 moles per day. Because none of the main stems grow vertically as you would normally have, this creates another problem for the intelligence because it will not overgrow the weight that any stem can support. Normally a cannabis plant grows like a regular tree, a perfect weight-balanced pyramid, most stems sit within a 45-90 degree vertical range, to alleviate the gross weight imbalance the plant grows side stems almost like a "stress" counterweight.

The new HVAC for soil is performing well, allowing me to incorporate flood/drought style to watering, without any worry of overwatering, Cannabis has a "sweet spot" where stress response to "drought" can be triggered before the negative effects of drought can impact growth dramatically, During night time plants process all the stored energy from photosynthesis as a by-product of cellular respiration and releases a lot of water vapor RH% into the air, don't water at night, water in the morning. The Corpus Hermeticum translated by G.R.S. Mead VIII. That No One of Existing Things doth Perish, but Men in Error Speak of Their Changes as Destructions and as Deaths

Pushing the plants very hard, temps running high, almost feels like after 3-4 days the plant starts to fatigue a little, cut back light intensity and let the plant chill at 74 for a day/night and growth exploded. All it needed was a breather. The Corpus Hermeticum translated by G.R.S. Mead IX. On Thought and Sense

* Message to future me, measure! The Corpus Hermeticum translated by G.R.S. Mead X. The Key

Haircut for the ladies. This UVB lamp works for sure, when the skin starts to tingle, you know its working :) Gave them a pretty ruthless defoliation, left 2,3 nodes so it's almost a lollipop, added weights to reinforce some diagonally leaning stems, helping to extend the lean further for a better spread, not rushing into the flower like normal The Corpus Hermeticum translated by G.R.S. Mead XI. Mind Unto Hermes

All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Light Three principal characteristics of light affect plant growth: quantity, quality and duration. Quantity Light quantity refers to the intensity, or concentration, of sunlight. It varies with the seasons. The maximum amount of light is present in summer and the minimum in winter. Up to a point, the more sunlight a plant receives, the greater its capacity for producing food via photosynthesis. You can manipulate light quantity to achieve different plant growth patterns. Increase light by surrounding plants with reflective materials, a white background or supplemental lights. Decrease it by shading plants with cheesecloth or woven shade cloths. Quality Light quality refers to the color (wavelength) of light. Sunlight supplies the complete range of wavelengths and can be broken up by a prism into bands of red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet. Blue and red light, which plants absorb, have the greatest effect on plant growth. Blue light is responsible primarily for vegetative (leaf) growth. Red light, when combined with blue light, encourages flowering. Plants look green to us because they reflect, rather than absorb, green light. Knowing which light source to use is important for manipulating plant growth. For example, fluorescent (cool white) light is high in the blue wavelength. It encourages leafy growth and is excellent for starting seedlings. Incandescent light is high in the red or orange range, but generally produces too much heat to be a valuable light source for plants. Fluorescent grow-lights attempt to imitate sunlight with a mixture of red and blue wavelengths, but they are costly and generally no better than regular fluorescent lights. Duration Duration, or photoperiod, refers to the amount of time a plant is exposed to light. Photoperiod controls flowering in many plants (Figure 1). Scientists used to think that the length of light period triggered flowering and other responses within plants. Thus, they describe plants as short-day or long-day, depending on what conditions they flower under. We now know that it is not the length of the light period, but rather the length of uninterrupted darkness, that is critical to floral development. Plants are classified into three categories: short-day (long-night), long-day (short-night), or day-neutral, depending on their response to the duration of light or darkness. Short-day plants form flowers only when day length is less than about 12 hours. Many spring- and fall-flowering plants, such as chrysanthemum, poinsettia and Christmas cactus, are in this category. In contrast, long-day plants form flowers only when day length exceeds 12 hours. Most summer-flowering plants (e.g., rudbeckia, California poppy and aster), as well as many vegetables (beet, radish, lettuce, spinach and potato), are in this category. Day-neutral plants form flowers regardless of day length. Examples are tomato, corn, cucumber and some strawberry cultivars. Some plants do not fit into any category, but may respond to combinations of day lengths. Petunias, for example, flower regardless of day length, but flower earlier and more profusely with long days. You can easily manipulate photoperiod to stimulate flowering. For example, chrysanthemums normally flower in the short days of spring or fall, but you can get them to bloom in midsummer by covering them with a cloth that completely blocks out light for 12 hours each day. After several weeks of this treatment, the artificial dark period no longer is needed, and the plants will bloom as if it were spring or fall. This method also is used to make poinsettias flower in time for Christmas. To bring a long-day plant into flower when day length is less than 12 hours, expose the plant to supplemental light. After a few weeks, flower buds will form. Temperature Temperature influences most plant processes, including photosynthesis, transpiration, respiration, germination and flowering. As temperature increases (up to a point), photosynthesis, transpiration and respiration increase. When combined with day length, temperature also affects the change from vegetative (leafy) to reproductive (flowering) growth. Depending on the situation and the specific plant, the effect of temperature can either speed up or slow down this transition. Germination The temperature required for germination varies by species. Generally, cool-season crops (e.g., spinach, radish and lettuce) germinate best at 55° to 65°F, while warm-season crops (e.g., tomato, petunia and lobelia) germinate best at 65° to 75°F. Flowering Sometimes horticulturists use temperature in combination with day length to manipulate flowering. For example, a Christmas cactus forms flowers as a result of short days and low temperatures (Figure 1). To encourage a Christmas cactus to bloom, place it in a room with more than 12 hours of darkness each day and a temperature of 50° to 55°F until flower buds form. If temperatures are high and days are long, cool-season crops such as spinach will flower (bolt). However, if temperatures are too cool, the fruit will not be set on warm-season crops such as tomatoes. Crop quality Low temperatures reduce energy use and increase sugar storage. Thus, leaving crops such as ripe winter squash on the vine during cool, fall nights increases their sweetness. Adverse temperatures, however, cause stunted growth and poor-quality vegetables. For example, high temperatures cause bitter lettuce. Photosynthesis and respiration Thermoperiod refers to daily temperature change. Plants grow best when daytime temperature is about 10 to 15 degrees higher than nighttime temperature. Under these conditions, plants photosynthesize (build up) and respire (break down) during optimum daytime temperatures and then curtail respiration at night. However, not all plants grow best under the same range between nighttime and daytime temperatures. For example, snapdragons grow best at nighttime temperatures of 55°F; poinsettias, at 62°F. Temperatures higher than needed increase respiration, sometimes above the rate of photosynthesis. Thus, photosynthates are used faster than they are produced. For growth to occur, photosynthesis must be greater than respiration. Daytime temperatures that are too low often produce poor growth by slowing down photosynthesis. The result is reduced yield (i.e., fruit or grain production). Breaking dormancy Some plants that grow in cold regions need a certain number of days of low temperature (dormancy). Knowing the period of low temperature required by a plant, if any, is essential in getting it to grow to its potential. Peaches are a prime example; most varieties require 700 to 1,000 hours between 32° and 45°F before breaking their rest period and beginning growth. Lilies need six weeks of temperatures at or slightly below 33°F before blooming. Daffodils can be forced to flower by storing the bulbs at 35° to 40°F in October. The cold temperature allows the bulbs to mature. When transferred to a greenhouse in midwinter, they begin to grow, and flowers are ready to cut in three to four weeks. Hardiness Plants are classified as hardy or nonhardy depending on their ability to withstand cold temperatures. Hardy plants are those that are adapted to the cold temperatures of their growing environment. Woody plants in the temperate zone have very sophisticated means for sensing the progression from fall to winter. Decreasing day length and temperature trigger hormonal changes that cause leaves to stop photosynthesizing and to ship nutrients to twigs, buds, stems and roots. An abscission layer forms where each petiole joins a stem, and the leaves eventually fall off. Changes within the trunk and stem tissues over a relatively short period of time "freeze-proof" the plant. Winter injury to hardy plants generally occurs when temperatures drop too quickly in the fall before a plant has progressed to full dormancy. In other cases, a plant may break dormancy in mid- or late winter if the weather is unseasonably warm. If a sudden, severe cold snap follows the warm spell, otherwise hardy plants can be seriously damaged. It is worth noting that the tops of hardy plants are much more cold-tolerant than the roots. Plants that normally are hardy to 10°F may be killed if they are in containers and the roots are exposed to 20°F. Winter injury also may occur because of desiccation (drying out) of plant tissues. People often forget that plants need water even during winter. When the soil is frozen, water movement into a plant is severely restricted. On a windy winter day, broadleaf evergreens can become water-deficient in a few minutes, and the leaves or needles then turn brown. To minimize the risk of this type of injury, make sure your plants go into the winter well-watered. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. The Corpus Hermeticum translated by G.R.S. Mead XII. About The Common Mind

Very pleased it's first time I've been able to observe with my own eyes the pr/pfr photoconversion. I haven't been so patient in giving an additional 1 hour of darkness per week but nonetheless we have first sign of flower at 10 hours of darkness. With 14 hours of light. The plants canopy already hits slightly over the 925umol recommended for 12h, the plant has no need to stretch. Just starts piling bud on top of bud like a perfect game of one potatoe, two potato. The Final Chapter. The Corpus Hermeticum translated by G.R.S. Mead XIII. The Secret Sermon on the Mountain

FAILED attempt. spider mites got there first.