Indoor to Outdoor #2

Because this lamp is not strong enough for this surface I would put the plants outside for now and use a fan with oscillating mode to cool them. For the next time I would use smaller cups for the first week. Then you can place them all under this lamp and place them all in the middle from the lamp with a closer distance from the lamp. But for now your only options are to use a stronger lamp that will cover the whole surface or place them outside.

Hello nonick123, I would simply use a fan with oscillating mode to keep them cool. And the first few days after germination you can keep them inside to protect them against the elements. Just move them into the sun when they start to strech searching for more light.

all you can do is adjust until they stop stretching. they look fine though. give it a second. too much light can be a problem too. if nodes don't space out at all, that's too much. distance or more power... 2 options for changing intensity of light applied to the plants. if you made a change recently, relax and see how it plays out. things don't always happen overnight.

a free app for measuring light can be useful. they are not accurate measurements but they are precise -- meaning under the sun or any 1 specific light (or those with exact specifications) it will read a consistent and dependable value. measure X klux or Y "DLI" "PPFD" when it remains healthy (not really either on a phone, since it is technologically incapable of such measurements, these are simply klux factored by soem one-size-fits all value that does not fit all) -- these values, if the plant remains upright can be used in future to ensure you don't kill it with sunlight early on. Make sure to start at least thet low 'next' time. .. pay attention to how long it takes to adapt and how you increase intensity each day to toughen her up... same process.. keep using the phone app and track what you do. can fine-tune / improve it each time.

It might be the soil that's a bit too strong. I don't think it's overwatering because she doesn't look droopy. I would just give plain water now for a week but let her dry out for a day or 3 too. If it doesn't become worse u can start slowly with feeding again. Autos are very sensitive to overfeeding so a week whitout nutrients can be good. If all that doesn't help it can be PH too. A little flush can help than to get it back to anywhere between 6 and 6,5 Hope u can use any of this advice. She still looks good too 🙂

Ca and Mg are 2 different needs of the plant. they are not tied together in any necessary way. Mg won't show a deficiency for 4-6 weeks, so it;s a bit early for that. Ca is yellow-brown spots and Mg has rusty spots with interveinal chorosis. 2 distinct set of sympoms for 2 distinct elements of need to the plant. Purple petioles indicate a need for P, but purple petioles can also be genetic or even LED-caused. the coinciding symptosm do not match P-deficiency. potassium deficiency is possible. would need to see it progress more to be certain. calcium has an antagonistic effect on P and K. It is also possible that if oyu added too much calcium, this could cause a normally proper amount of P or K to be insufficient due to availability in the plant. check out my GD profile. there is a link to a google drive with a leaf symptom chart and mulder's chart. understanding these two things can be a great help to accurately diagnosing issues that you see. it's more complex than simply add this or that when you see a particular set of symtpoms what you soil is bringing to the equation is an unknown. pick a path, let it play out, and take notes to try something different next time. be ready to fail a couple times. definitely learn to do this yourself. you can trust yourself better than others.

short and sweet - so, are you using it out of OCD or is it needed? if you will evolve into less testing as you are more familiar, definitely go with strips. if you have to test all teh time, the ph pen/probe is a good idea. more reasoning added... you are better off with a cheap 100 pack of 1/2 pH resolution strips. (pH resolved by 0,5 with 4 colors for easy reading) the pens are nice. if you are going to test multiple things per day or just daily use, it may be worth it. with good products and a good SOP you don't need to test so often. 7usd for a 100pack that has lasted me 2-3 years and i still have 60-70 strips remaining. i have a well-buffered nutrient brand. my pH doesn't swing/drift. i used to test more often but it is not needed with good fertilizer brands. If you keep rez dark and relatively cool, you only need to spot check occasionally. At this point i use 3-5 strips per year. i'll spot check before germinating any expensive seeds, for example. but the 1000 or so i made, meh. lol. learned the hard way when i pissed 160 usd down he tubes bc my tap water pH shifted from 8,4 to 7,0 and i was not adding fertilizer so i had to add some acid to adust the assumed 8,4. ended up too acidic and 8 of 10 seeds died. 20 usd per seed... makes you think twice about being lazy. as far as the rez, i just have a regular maintenance and rarely test pH - just enough to avoid any issues. i don't even clean my rez that often. maybe 1 time during a grow but i've also gone an entire grow without scrubbing it down. my point is i'm a bit sloppy and i still don't have ph issues. This is an easy thing to avoid with some good choices of fertilizers used. if pH drift is occuring it is more likely the fault of the product than some external force. maintenance - you have to re-callibrate a pen. which means you have to buy and store stock solutions of specific pH. some are 2-point, some are 3-point callibrations. you need a solution to store the probe in to extend its life. you don't want to spend 50-150usd and then treat it liek shit and get fewer years out of it. the point is it seems easier on surface to test stuff, which it is, but there's a ton of maintenance and special needs that make you spent a lot more effort on a pen than strips. soil has it's own impacts on pH too. gives you a little leeway on it, typically. slightly self-correcting so, are you using it out of OCD or is it needed? if you will evolve into less testing as you are more familiar, definitely go with strips. if you have to test all teh time, the ph pen/probe is a good idea. (pasted to top)

I would only use LST for these autoflowers. If you want your plant to recover fast it is best to wait till they reach 5-6 nodes. Yours will (almost) start the pre-flowering phase already before reaching 5-6 nodes. Keep the branches at equal height with LST is the best technique for these autoflowers. Enjoy your grow!

No defoliation is needed. And on the LST front. Simple outdoors is best buddy the way you have it now. Hmmmm that'll be a headache and it'll grow much better natural. Defol is used for 2 things mainly To keep RH down (you don't need 2, you're outside. To get more light to buds after pre flower is over and general light direction, in sense, only needed cause leds are a static light. The sun moves, so no defol at any stage is needed, nor recommend. Only if your buds are super dense to allow airflow in between actual buds sugars can be pult up to allow air flow (only needed in high RH outdoors or if very rainy , also a good method for indoors to avoid rot)

I use sugar cane straw mulch but yes straw or any fine light mulch will do. Wouldnt suggest the clay balls as in the sun, they get pretty warm and pass the heat on to the substrate and can make the roots very warm with low oxygen -not good for the roots. So a light color straw mulch is best. Start with a thin layer and see how you go and slowly make it thicker until you hit the point it doesnt dry out too fast but isnt too slow to dry out either. Great idea keeping them in white containers too. Very good idea. 😊

¡Hola! Me alegra saber que tus plantas se ven bien y no muestran signos de estrés. Aunque parece que pudiste haber tenido una ligera sobrefertilización en semanas anteriores, es alentador ver que los nuevos brotes se ven sanos. Eso es un buen indicio de que tus plantas están respondiendo bien. Recuerda que cada planta es única y puede procesar el estrés de manera diferente. Es posible que tu planta solo esté tomando un poco más de tiempo para recuperarse completamente. Pero en general, no se ve nada mal en tu cultivo. Continúa proporcionando un cuidado adecuado y observa cómo evoluciona en las próximas semanas. Siempre es importante prestar atención a cualquier cambio o problema potencial, pero hasta ahora, tus plantas parecen estar en buen estado. Sigue adelante con tu cuidado y disfruta del proceso de cultivo. ¡Buena suerte y que tus plantas sigan prosperando! Si tienes más preguntas o inquietudes, no dudes en hacerlas. Estoy aquí para ayudarte.

bit odd progression. starting low and mostly from the tip and progressing inward on leaves is typically Nitrogen deficiency, but it'snot uniformly progressing liek that. are you allowing top 1" to dry before irrigating? if you are watering consistently sooner that that, it could be a root-zone thing. if you have good watering habits, i'd bump N slightly and see how it goes. 7 of 10 instructions from marijuna brands are trash ... no idea what hte actual number is but they usually suggest some bat-shit crazy things - often too much so that you buy more. see problems and think you need to buy something else, lol. my suggestion to anyone that commonly runs into problems while growing... try a different brand. feeding a plant should be one of the easiest things you do. it should not require a constant shifting and adding and taking away... that's a sign of a poorly balanced diet. the urban myths sorrounding marijuana are often wrong. find some Ag brands that aren't dedicated to ripping off hobbyists.. i have no idea bout biotab / biobiz.. they could be good. i see an awful lot of burnt canopies with that stuff in the questions though. and other growers seem to do better. uncertain... when i switched to jacks... the problems i encounter are rare and small / slowly progressing with a clear and easy fix. no more ph-adjusting. no more concerns about pH drift, because it is properly buffered, which is not new knowledge... marijuana brands just tend to be startup companies with no real experience in biology, chemistry, or horticulture. The last one of those has a ton of horseshit mixed into it too, but a longer history than "bro science" .. too many people think like the advertising. my TSP says "improves roots" ... and it sorta does if applied in right balance with other stuff.. but it's not some fuckingmagic bullet that you spread out and all of a sudden rainbows shoot out of your roots. it's not that simple, but it is that simple with a good brand. anything that is a struggle to grow healthy plants from seed to harvest you should seriously consider dropping that brand like a bad habit.

1stly. Biobizz is 100% organic and wouldn't have any ill affect on your sub. No synthetic nutrients, cheat There is no Synthetic anything in biobizz. I would only use your neem oil on the lower parts of your plant. As I've read this can cause the plant to have difficulty taking up nutrients as it blocks their Stomata vents. So,if you're staying with it. Id apply it in sections or as needed, but leaving some of your plant to breath. Also. I see you're using BioGrow + biobloom. Idk if you just haven't had chance to change it. But, I'd drop the grow and just keep bloom and top max. 5-600ppm should only be needed. (This value is added to your waters ambient ppm) so if your water is 100ppm you then add that nutrient value to it. But, even that's high. But, with them been organic nutes they sound be okay. I would say your plants NPK is off. And instead of taking up what it needs. Its taken up what's given. Them spots are signs an off NPK. She's ran slightly over on N.. so, for the next few days. Just top max to keep it going. And she should fall back into range

Un amigo cultivador de exterior adopto la misma medida de las planchas de policarbonato y van de maravilla!! el tamaño y cosecha no se ve afectado, de hecho consigue unos resultados excelentes. Asi que a por ello ;)