Ganja Djarin Grows

If the efficacy isn't 2,8 or higher, i'm not using it unless it's some 100-150w or lower light. I have a less efficient 150w light i use for early vege. It has a 10-100% dimmer knob. Efficacy is king. Directly correlates to longevity too. 480w and 650w lights i use are all white LED with some 660nm mixed in. The rest is unsubstantiated as of yet. I've seen all sorts of conflicting info on UV lights. Bugbee has some indoor tests that revealed potential, but then other research shows nothing useful amounts from it. Bottom line, whateve rimpact it has, i'm not paying through the nose to get it. It is small and irrelevant effect as far as i am concerned. I'd still favor a warmer CCT, but even that i'm not certain of being extremely important anymore. I'll be comparing a 2900K and 3400K run this winter. Not scientific in anyway, and i'm not concenred with "statistically significant" if it's some tiny number not worth worrying about. statistically significant can still be a total waste of time and effort. just depends on context. Stick with LM301 didoes. B or H it absolutely doesn't matter. From their serial code you can reference the binning in the spec sheets on samsung website. it can make a 10% different in efficacy and still be labeled "lm301" white led diodes. They are similar but not all lm301 are equal. just one more wrinkle to account for. That's okay, even an inferior bin will be an excellent efficacy if you run them as they are driven in the spec sheet testing. This means anything that deviates from 0,25 watts per diode is underperforming compared to spec sheet at samsung com. Any advertising that lists the samsung specs while driving them harder is a fucking liar and they know it, lol. You probably won't eclipse 3,0 umol/J with anything store bought -- HUGE red flag if advertised as such. There are some chips that are being run under spec sheet power, and that comes with risks too., Samsung will not guarantee the light produced when under powered. you'd need some spectral analysis to know for certain the SFD is keeping it's integrity (the weight of all the wavelengths, ie that curve you see with every light showing peaks at red and blue wavelengths - the curve is the visual representation of SFD) But back to those odd underpowered chips.. they theoretically will get improved efficacy and eclipsong 3,0 is that much easier. Normally the only thing going that high is the 5000K CCT diodes and thats too cool to be using exclusively on plants (cool is a higher blue ratio, not physically cold) The 3000K and 3500K might max out at 3,0umol/J but your 660nm reds and anything else will just average it out lower in nearly all cases.

La germinacion y la fase de plántula es una de las fases más críticas, y donde un fallo grave puede suponer la muerte de la planta Te recomiendo germinar entre toallas de papel y luego pasar a maceta de 400 ml (si es fotoperiódica) o a maceta definitiva si es Auto Las dos primeras semanas la Plantula es muy débil y concentra su energía en generar el sistema radicular inicial Controla muy bien la temperatura (22 a 26 grados Celsius) y la humedad (del 60 al 80 por cien) Si es interior da luz a unos 250 PPFD (prueba la App Photone en tu smartphone Si es exterior, da luz directa pero evita las horas centrales del día de 12 a 16 Suerte!

I am in South Africa where it is legal to an extent, however fully legal to grow on a commercial scale with the right license's, partners, and uptake /off take agreements from foreign partners. Its been a long process and we are still a while a way but I will not stop until I am exporting boutique high quality cannabis all over the world :D My advice to you is create a solid plan and visualize what you see yourself doing in the industry, establish your main goal and drive , create a solid grow portfolio, network and the find the right partners, and start small if you have too, always safer that way and plenty room for growth. All the best with venture brother!✊

Hope your using a tor browser and VPN. Clones are stable in terms of genetics, seeds are more varied, You can make one clone a mother and just take off of it and not worry about more clones. or take new clones every flip to flower "monster cropping" and keep rotating your crops. Granted if the mother gets sick or diseased you need a new one and no telling if the ones you get originally are healthy. Seeds can be stored easy and are cheaper upfront cost. gives you the ability to find your own pheno but it takes time and effort. Can make clones off of them plants if needed and some seeds from some breeders are very stable and produce good results 90% + of the time. better question, who is your hypothetical market? casual smoker or gourmet connoisseur, they budget branded or have some money to burn? basic cannabinoids or something fancy? I'd start with clones and make bank faster then branch out from there. less variables keeps it simple, then keep doing the same thing and monster cropping to save money or go for a change of pace and start a seed phneo hunt on a strain your curious about. I don't care much for super high THC strains and like CBG/CBD ones, they are far and few between in clones but it would be a side project on my normal THC line for the masses if I was to do that and wanted to make bank off of it. Most growers here are hobbyist, a few plants to a group for them selves and close friends. People who are running big grow ops making mad money showcasing it off to the cops who have equal access to this site are fucking stupid. Good Luck!

I like to use HST on my photoperiod plants. my fav is topping but I almost always combine it with a bit of LST as well. You can do this after the plant is finished growing for the first few weeks and has a bunch of mature leaves. Good Luck!