The Garden 2023-2024

@001100010010011110, bahahahaha burn it to the ground.

@m0use, Funny stuff -- The durban poison diary was stolen by some ?russian? grow journal site. Guess it's been long enough I can't find it on google image search anymore. They stole my diary and reposted it on some other site, lol. ("full plant with fade" picture and the defoliated one right after)

@001100010010011110, yeah that’s fair. Maybe the ozone machine would be a bit overboard I suppose. It was more of a thought than anything. Those machines are quite expensive and probably not worth the investment for the small return it would probably do. I was just more curious if anyone had ever thought about using an ozone between grows. But yeah I hear you. Controlling the environment is key to not having issues in the first place. Yeah one of my first runs a few years back I had some RH spikes in my tent during flowering and had a few buds developed a bit of mold. But I was also venting back into the lung room and I didn’t add any extra air conditioning to the lung room and solely relying on my house AC to keep that room cool. Which didn’t really work out that well. Yeah I find that the humidity outside affects the RH inside. When we get a lot rain the whole house tends to raise in RH. But like I said for now things seem to be stable but I definitely will invest in a dehumidifier if things start getting out of control. Anyway thanks for the conversation I really appreciate it. It’s nice to be able to bounce ideas and thoughts off of each other.

@Papa_T, Yeah, short-term use of it will reduce risk associated with ozone and venting outside will reduce a need for a dehum for sure. If you are maintaining a safe range of RH% and it results in a VPD range you want along with temps, you don't need a dehum. Venting outside helps alot. If you get high RH in a cyclical manner in your region, you may need one occasionally. Before i grew in winter only, RH was a big problem in the summer for me and i vented outside back then. It became an invisible problem when i scaled up and moved to winter-only. I have a temp probe that can inform me of temp/rh/dewpoint without opening tent, nowadays... zero surprises. I used to be pretty festidious about cleaning.. then i had my multi-grow WPM issue that took a bit to recognize the cause. I got a bit pissy about it, lol, and didn't bother cleaning much. Around the same time i scaled down and all of a sudden the WPM issue abated. Which was a bit upsetting considering the time and effort i put into cleaning prior hoping it would help. This is the main reason i say climate is the biggest factor by far. I definitely had some spores "somewhere" that cycle but they never got a foothold. I've since cleaned of course. Haven't seen any WPM since then... next cycle will be 2 years. Scaling down dropped me to 27-28C during day, but the dehum could keep up properly and still 68-70F after lights out. Half the wattage helped with the temps. Half the canopy helped with the RH. WPM magically went away and before that particular run i didn't do shit becuase to clean i was so pissed. Before i was as high as 30-32C with 60% rh, which is a dewpoint just over 71F. Higher range of heat with appropriate RH has a dangerously high dewpoint. If it is a concern, download a dewpoint reference table or get one of those 10 USD temp/rh probes. Definitely useful with photoperiods in flower, anyway. It is important to clean, but you don't have to be crazy anal about it in my experience. A good wipe down with some sort of cleaning solvent is probably good enough for 99% of cases.

@SkunkleDamo, OMG , boy/girl learn to respect others, learn to grow and not to LIE, your plants are pitty and thats a fact, why you write 280g is beyond me .... NotSteve is rude, but at least most of us growers can learn from him and a lot !!!

@SkunkleDamo, Wanna cry about it? This is my diary.. you can fuck off. You don't see me acting a child in your diaries do you? Little punk bitch outs himself...

@tangie, Are you asking what nutes that i use? J.R. Peters Jack's "Part A" 5-12-26, generic Calcium Nitrate (15-0-0, with 18% Ca) and generic epsom salt (9.8% Mg and 12.9% S). I top off "P" to 50-60ppm with triple super phosphate (0-45-0 with 15% Ca). Several brands have a very similar setup. The research behind the basic ratios used by these manufacturers is public knowledge.

@MMSC16, It depends on scale. Burping 3-4 quart jars or gallon jars is no big deal. Burping 20-30 jars is a giant pain in the ass. If you want to use glass mason jars, you can drill holes in the top and accomplish the same thing. You don't want a 5-gallon bucket if it's not filled up. More air inside is bad at that point. I don't use this system anymore. I needed a bigger pump to run 4-5 buckets, so i stopped. I fill up my smoking jars 1/week, and that works out well to pop the top on 1-5 buckets.

@MMSC16, Super easy to make silver thiosulfate (STS). The first link is the basis for the cooking instructions. I've done some algebra for you in the 2nd link for a smaller batch and no excess of either 'mixing' solution. It's good to aim for 3mM due to error in scales likely used. If you have more resolved scales, you can do smaller batches. The second link is a recipe that pushes a .01g +/-.03g scale to a 10% error rate, and it STILL makes 667mL (3mM) of STS, which is still a lot more than you'll use in most cases. Lots of waste if '1' plant, but still 10-50x cheaper than buying this from some marijuana branded company. The "Twenty20" brand STS sent out old expired solutions and price-gouged at an insane rate. They gave barely enough for 1 plant at the cost of 5 gallons of this recipe, lol, and clearly didn't understand the chemistry as they sent out a bunch of defective product with a known experiation date. Ingredients -Silver nitrate can be found on ebay for 2 USD per gram, as of couple years ago. This will not be a professionally packaged and labeled product, so read reviews to ensure the guy is reputable. -Anhydrous sodium thiosulfate is probably best bought on ebay too. that will be a professionally labeled and packaged product. It'll be as small as a 4oz/113g bottle and should be less than 10 USD. That's enough sodium thiosulfate for 20 grams of silver nitrate. If you follow my instructions, it's .34g of silver nitrate per 667mL batch of STS. You need a scale that resolves .001g to make smaller batches. -Get one of those aerosolizing spray bottles vs a typicl squeeze-spray. These you squeeze what amounts to be a pump and as the pressure rises it emits a very fine mist that will cover leaves more effectively and not waste as much of the solution. Opaque black is key. Light is a real enemey, here. You'll quickly ruin a mixed solution if exposed to light. Store in dark, cold space, like a fridge. Wrap it in aluminum or otherise completely dark. Seal it, as you don't want this shit near food, lol. Maybe a zip lock bag, too, lol. https://www.sigmaaldrich.com/US/en/technical-documents/protocol/cell-culture-and-cell-culture-analysis/plant-tissue-culture/silver-thiosulfate https://postimg.cc/mht76Vc4 -- image link good for 1 week from this date, so save it to your computer or phone.

@Hattiwatti, 👌