Auto Ultimate grow journal by Momgrowsthechronic

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Momgrowsthechroniccommentedweek 56 years ago

Me too, i’ve fallen right down the rabbit hole! Love it.

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CRiSPrGrowcommented6 years ago

@Momgrowsthechronic, yep ! really rewarding hobby, and at the end you get the herb lol what's not to like ! 🚀

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Momgrowsthechroniccommentedweek 46 years ago

Okay everyone, thank you so much for all of your observations and advice. The CalMag seems to have stopped any further damage progression up the plant but she does look pretty green. So, I’m cutting the CalMag dose in half for now and I’m going to try some foliar feeding too. I’m hesitant to remove it all together because it seems to have worked! I’m upping my bloom nutes, part A & B to 2mls per litre or 8 mls per gallon at day #30 because that’s what my feeding schedule calls for. From what I have seen so far, the Sensi Bloom PH perfect nutes only take the PH to 5.8 when used at full strength (4mls/litre) so with the amount I’m using- I average a PH of 6.2. My feeding schedule maxs out at 2mls/litre or 8mls per gallon based on the theory that autoflowers require about half the nutrients that a photoperiod plant would use. I’m going to watch my plants and adjust the feed as per needed hoping that I can find that sweet spot for magical growth! As I’ve said, overall the plants don’t look too bad and they’re almost halfway through. Thanks again to all the growers who took the time to comment and offer advice on my newbie grow.

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growdoctordccommentedweek 56 years ago

Mom, Experts have chimed in, and uncharacteristically, @CRiSPrGrow and @@Athos disagree, which suggests to me there are nuggets of truth in each of their offerings. Weed makes us mental. Do due diligence but avoid over thinking. Feel the plants as much as monitor them. The numbers count, but not as much as we often believe. She’s grown without our assistance for many thousands of years. Try soil sometime - less yield. More complex flavor. Enjoy your harvest

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Fredddcommented5 years ago

@growdoctordc, "I didn’t cut them off, which has to hurt, dontchya think?", well I'm not so sure about that. You need to define what you mean by 'hurt'. Ultimately we want to end up with the largest amount of the best quality buds, that to me is the proof of the pudding. I've only seen benefits

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growdoctordccommented6 years ago

@Momgrowsthechronic asked “What would a bruised leaf look like?” If a ponytailed leaf retakes it’s proper shape within a few hours, then it is likely fine. But some bruising has occurred and that constitutes a tiny bit of shock. Does it matter? Probably not. Did it help? Probably not. I have used pine gum to hold large leaves together in a downward facing position in an attempt to not defoliate, and yet give air and space to flower sites. Does it work? Maybe, although now my ‘solar panels’ are not getting direct light, but at least I didn’t cut them off, which has to hurt, dontchya think? You’ll do well. Enjoy your harvest.

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CRiSPrGrowcommented6 years ago

@Momgrowsthechronic, i'm not a long time grower but i got way into this hobby for sure lmfao, never did one thing for so long and i think this is the thing i'm gonna keep doing longterm, so interesting, so rewarding, and the GD family is key for me , absolutely !

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growdoctordccommentedweek 56 years ago

@Kilgoretrout Ponytailing is among the many misguided practices rooted in the mistaken belief that pistils/calyxes need direct light in order to multiply. The name refers to the shape a leaf takes after twisting the leaflets so its bulk is temporarily reduced, and light can reach bud sites. But flowers are not photosensitive, as you know. Bud sites do perform better when they have space to grow, and for that reason induced stretching (why do plants naturally stretch?) selective defoliation and LST prove useful. But to intentionally and repeatedly bruise leaves seems counterproductive I agree. Time will tell. It’s an industry in infancy still. We’re basically still moonshiners figuring it out as we go. Oh, and if anyone is looking for a novel to read that will blow your mind and have you question your reality, check out Slaughterhouse 5. Despite the title, it’s hilarious.

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growdoctordccommented6 years ago

@KilgoreTrout Not articles per se, but lots of very accomplished growers here and elsewhere tout the yield benefits of the myriad methods of defoliation. And it works - I’m saying that giving flowers space and fresh air is the reason they grow, not the direct light on them. If you mean induced stretching, that’s a theory I am toying with in lieu of defoliation. We all agree leaves are solar panels. Indoors, a dense under canopy can restrict flower growth, and encourage mold and mildew. It’s wise to trim that, even though we lost some square area of solar panel in the process. Stretching keeps the leaves intact, and inhibits mold growth. But we don’t want a spindly, sparse plant. Neither do we want a hedge.

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KilgoreTroutcommented6 years ago

@growdoctordc,interesting. Any articles about it you’ve seen? Slaughterhouse 5 hilarious? At points. I tend to focus more on the tragedy. But a great book nonetheless.

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CRiSPrGrowcommented6 years ago

@growdoctordc, agree 100% with everything above ... And just ordered slaughterhouse 5 lol

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SCAR17scommentedweek 116 years ago

drooling!!!!! thats perfection

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CRiSPrGrowcommentedweek 46 years ago

hey moms, hope i answered your question, i love this ressource : https://www.growweedeasy.com/cannabis-symptoms-pictures let me know if this helps you too !

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CRiSPrGrowcommented6 years ago

@Momgrowsthechronic, ha yes, foliar spray cal mag works wonders... why ? calcium uptake through the roots is effective at 15%, calcium uptake through the leaves is effective at 95% ! you want to do both though in soiless . so the plant has started stretching and you do need to start working in flower/bloom nutrients eventually reaching a 4/12/12 NPK ratio ... i would add bloom nutes nowish for sure.

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Momgrowsthechroniccommented6 years ago

@CRiSPrGrow, thx for the feedback about what’s been damaging my lower leaves. I had a similar problem with my first attempt at growing this strain and it really stunted my overall growth at a crucial time (weeks 4-5). I did some foliar feeding with that plant and had great results so I think I’ll try it again with these ones. This seems to be an extremely hungry strain so I’m wondering if I should up my nutrients a bit to give the plants more potassium and phosphorus? I’m still a little confused though because after adding the CalMag, the yellowing and dying off of the lower leaves has stopped. Overall, the plant seems to be bouncing back a bit but I definitely want to avoid any more problems moving forward. Thanks so much for taking time out of your day to help out with my issues, appreciated!

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Experimentgreencommentedweek 46 years ago

Hey chronic mama i was thinking about a few things that can trigger a look like yours, and of coarse calcium is in there like you mentioned, but phosphorus and potassium deficiencies can cause that discoloration also, since the rest of your plant appears so healthy I'm hoping you're just working with a deficiency rather than a toxicity since thats much more of a pain to fix. Happy hunting. ✌️

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Experimentgreencommented6 years ago

@Momgrowsthechronic, I've seen some pretty good leaf diagrams online. So if you wanted to see various nutrient problems in picture form Google marijuana leaf symptoms or something like that and maybe that will help to.✌️

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Momgrowsthechroniccommented6 years ago

@Experimentgreen, thx for ur input on my lower leaf issues. Your thought pattern seems the most similar to my own so I’m kind of going the way you suggested. Hope it works and thx again for the advice.

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CRiSPrGrowcommentedweek 136 years ago

Sweet jesus that's an immense result ! congrats 👏 👏 👏 👏 a great diary by the way ! loads of great info on here ! 👊 🚀

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Momgrowsthechroniccommented6 years ago

@CRiSPrGrow, thank you Budrick, encouragement always appreciated! Sorry I got ur name wrong by mistake- my bad. Thx again!

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blackashcommentedweek 16 years ago

Hey bud looking good. I do have a few suggestions take them or leave them, I don’t know your level so I mean no disrespect but did read your question though not sure exactly what picture you mean. One with natural light has some leaves I would pull off. If you are mid flower I would switch from a cal/mag to a mag sulfur product like powder koolbloom or what ever you like. Also things like cal/mag out of 350 ppm there is only around 50ppm of mag in there. NPK makes a b1 thst has a good amount of mag + increases mycorrhizae population of you use it. I see dark green leaves, and purple stems but I also think you been watering very often but a low amount. Thst is kind of strange but I assume you do this because you are in such a big bucket? If you don’t already consider taking it in steps? From root cube in a dome to a solo cup, to a 1 gallon then to a 3 gallon(if flowering). There’s a bit of reasons to do ths one is to build the root ball also helps largely with over watering. This allows you to add to under a light, they will also receive less light same when bunched together allowing you to run just a small light. You had some purple stems as well. This can be a few things but points to a shortness of mag along with the yellow at the bottom and the darker green. You may start to see them cupping upward. This can be from too much light or to much watering. I don’t know all your details just input. But your flowering looks nice 👍

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Momgrowsthechroniccommented6 years ago

@@@blackash, thx for your comments, as always- much appreciated! I’m looking for a substitute to the CalMag Plus that I’m currently using because Botanicare adds 2% Nitrogen to their mix. I feel that this is too much Nitrogen when combined with my base nutrients and probably the cause of my super dark green foliage. I can’t seem to find a formula with just Calcium/Magnesium or straight Magnesium for that matter. It’s my understanding that the plants really need the Mag for periods of rapid growth like this "flowering stretch" that I’ve been going through for the past 2 weeks. Can you provide a little more info on this "Kool Bloom" or any other products that you’ve tried as a substitute for the CalMag that I’m currently weaning off of. Thx. I am watering every second day because I am growing in ProMix HP and it drys out quickly! The plants are never droopy by the second day but definitely ready for a drink and food. The ProMix allows me to feed more often without water logging the plants. As for transplanting these ladies throughout the grow from root cube to solo cup to 1 gallon etc.- I’m lazy and the ladies don’t seem to mind it! As far as the purple stems, honestly I don’t know. Could be a minor deficiency but I think maybe it’s a genetic thing. My 1st attempt at this strain had lots of purply/red throughout the plant as well. I’m going to keep an eye on it though, thanks for the heads up and thx for checkin out my grow!

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TinyGiantcommentedweek 145 years ago

hello. well done. i like ur stuff. did u just used 315 watts of led for flowering phase?

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NOLOGIKcommentedweek 146 years ago

UaaaaaaOOOOOO :O

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Smowkabowlcommentedweek 86 years ago

Hey Mom, If your growing in coco along with LEDs and using RO water you probably should be using CalMag, start to finish (flush). But I'm such a newb, so I could be wrong. Peace

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blackashcommentedweek 66 years ago

You want to use the cal/mag up till around 4th week of flower, then you can switch to a mag sulfur like a sweet product. It’s a ripening, powder koolbloom use last few weeks before finishing. Only use a very small amount. Both those and the npk b1 will supply a good amount of mag. But replace cal/mag with a sweet product. Don’t care if you pick a smell, that’s only for people appeal does nada doe the plant. https://www.amazon.com/Botanicare-BCNSSWR8-8-Ounce-Supplement-Plants/dp/B004U3T6OY/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1547887433&sr=8-15&keywords=botanicare+sweet My suggestion would be to get a PPM meter. Probably be your most important tool. Then take your water test the PPM. Add 5 mil to the water and document each of your nutrients and how much salt each one has. This way you know how many ppm you are giving her. Keep with the cal/mag, don’t mind the nitrogen it’s needed. Just never spray with it or you’ll burn it. Also npk b1 has good mag, also increases mycorrhizae if you are using it along with a few other things. 1/16 to 1/8th of a teaspoon so it lasts a while. And yes can be strain. Latest picture looking nice.

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Experimentgreencommentedweek 46 years ago

I'm so curious to know if that sensi bloom truly stays ph balanced. Have you used an ph equipment to check if it fluxuates at all? It'd be neat to see a side by side done of the same strain, 1 sensi bloom 1 not.

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Athoscommentedweek 46 years ago

To answer your question: Hello there. First of all, no is not a calcium deficiency. What it looks like is actually two things; first the super dark green foliage is nitrogen toxicity and the lower leaves with partial yellowing form the tip to the base with rust spots is potassium (K) deficiency. Remember that cal mag has some nitrogen too. What I would do is dial back the grow nutes and add some bloom nutes, because your plant is trying to flower, thus the K deficiency. Good luck

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Momgrowsthechroniccommented6 years ago

@@Athos, thx for the great info on the different deficiencies common to growing Cannabis. Honestly, I’ve been using the CalMag because I had some from my last grow, it says on the bottle that it "corrects most common deficiencies" and I really didn’t know what else to do. I kind of just panicked a bit and figured I’d give it a try. Do you think I should increase my flowering nutes a bit to avoid any future problems with potassium/phosphorus deficiencies? I’m going to lay off watering with the CalMag and try foliar feeding with it instead. Thx again for helping out with my issues, I really appreciate the advice from the more experienced growers.

Athoscommented6 years ago

@Momgrowsthechronic, just to clarify a few thing. First: calcium is an immobile element, which means that it's deficiency shows on the upper newer leaves, not the lower ones and it shows as tiny rust spots and it takes several weeks to show, usually in mid flower. Second: dark green leaves are a sign of nitrogen excess, which if left untreated leads to nitrogen toxicity. Third, pH fluctuations is an issue of hydroponic systems, since in soil or soil less media, pH does not fluctuate, it's either too high or too low, while yours is not on the ideal spot, is not out of range. Fourth, phosphorous deficiency does not show with any kind of yellowing leaves, it shows as dark / metallic blue patches on lower leaves; on the other hand, non homogeneous yellowing form the tip on lower leaves with rust spots and sometimes burnt rusty or burnt edges are a textbook potassium deficiency. In this case give it a week and next week there will be signs of phosphorous deficiency, since your plant seems to be in early flowering stages.

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Athoscommented6 years ago

@Momgrowsthechronic, why are you using cal mag? Is your water too soft? Usually there's more than enough calcium and magnesium in tap water. Have you meassured your water EC/PPM? And yes, I do think they are too dark green

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