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AC Infinity
Ventilation Fans
Air Conditioning
DREO
CO2 module
Grow crew
Coco Coir
Coco noir
Pumice
Substrate
Indoor
Room Type
4 L
Pot Size
0.98 L
Watering
Start at 3 Week
1
Week 1. Vegetation
16d ago
2.49 cm
Height
18 hrs
Light Schedule
23 °C
Day Air Temp
No Smell
Smell
63 %
Air Humidity
20 °C
Night Air Temp
3.79 L
Pot Size
19 cm
Lamp Distance
KallmyBluff84 Not growing as fast I would like but this is my first time. Plant seems strong and healthy. (100ppm) first week (300ppm) second week. Adding Mychrzae next watering, then won’t add any nutrient for 10day. I know it’s kinda wacky, I’m still making mistakes and figuring it all out.
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Grow Questions
KallmyBluff84
KallmyBluff84started grow question 16d ago
Plant is actually 2.5cm which equals 1 in
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Core_T_Son
Core_T_Sonanswered grow question 16d ago
😅 and what’s the question? Nice Seedling btw
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Ultraviolet
Ultravioletanswered grow question 16d ago
Better answer it has a week attached!!!!!
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RasendeRollo92
RasendeRollo92answered grow question 16d ago
Hey 👋 Plant is developing okay. Some strains grow slower, somes do faster. Height will mostly be gained in stretch. Until you get into stretch plant grows slow and steady. Just be patient 👊👍🍀
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KallmyBluff84
KallmyBluff84started grow question 11d ago
How often should I use a nutrient solution?
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 10d ago
atlien415 spazzing out again, taking things too literally, arguing over pedantic nonsense... Using his favorite fallacious logic: strawman, misprepresenting what was said, tangetial nonsense, false comparisons, nit-picking unrelated aspects and of course just making shit up. Also engages in ad hominem as a form of argument. This person has zero integrity in how they argue. The live their life like a perpetual middle schooler. They start with some self-absorbed motivation and selectively chooses what he focus on to manufacture useless arguments that are hyper-focused on some aspect that isn't even relevant to the original question(s). just an example or 2 cause i'm not wasting too much time on this. The conversion from EC can use one of several conversion factors. that alone should tell you the lack of accuracy by comparison to calculating elemental ppm. Gauranteed analysis are a gauranteed minimums. if a manufacturer is fucking that up, you shoudln't buy their stuff. Arguing about this when he knows better shows that this is really some irrational personal attack. He's an emotionally-driven person constantly looking to start a fight over utter nonsense. Not only that, but overall concentration doesn't tell you shit. Tracking individual ppms or 'weighted average %'s based on dosing' will allow you to confidently and precisely adjust your formula based on observation of growth. It can be applied to the next grow and confidently expect the intended result. With soilless/hydro nutes you can absolutely expect consistency. Sure their are some variations to specific ingredients, but it's a small pool. Either it is 100% soluble and 100% plant ready or it is not. Nothing groundbreaking has been discovered about plants relative to home gardening context. you can feel safe using information from "way back" in 2019, LOL. Existing knowledge is not something you ignore. New research that hasn't been peer-reviewed or shown to be a repeatable and consistent relationship or effect is what you need to be wary of. "Existing knowledge that is old must be bad! LOL Fire! Ungh! Fire bad!" - atlen415 displays SNL frankenstein sophistication. The idea being communicated was to track what you feed in a resolved way and the benefits should be obvious. Atlien415 arguing about this in tangential ways and nit-picking irrelevant details shows how this is just about him personally attacking me as opposed to anything productive. A bug has craweld WAY up his ass. tap or ro concerns? This is just another example of him picking a fight over nothing. Some half-wit will complain about how much i write, then another half-wit complains i didn't write enough. If the numbers were calculated from the labels, obviously that's not including the what come in the water. Why would it? Magic? You'd have to make up figments in your head (atlien's) to think anything differently. carbs? your flower also isn't being 'carb-loaded' LOL. Again, irrelevant detail Flushing does not affect structure of flower development. This ignored unhealthy plants, because the context is a healthy plant with proper results, not some dumpster fire fuck up. I don't get how this twit can say i said things 'too difinitively.' Everything is a ballpark to start in then you have to observe and adjust for the numerous local variables. Yet another example of making things up and misrepresenting what was said. Atlien415 is just a mean girl being hysterical, again. He's a little insecure stalker with way too much time on their hands. For all his need to fee superior, his grows sure look like mids. LOL
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John_Kramer
John_Krameranswered grow question 11d ago
depends on lvl of solution ppm could be twice a week with 500 ppm or 1 with 1000
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 11d ago
With coco coir base? That's 'soilless' so every irrigation... and every irrigation should have 10% runoff or more to avoid buildup. in a soilless context, you maintain a consistent, controlled level of nutrients around the roots. The runoff ensure you don't ge buildup -- even if the resulting equilibrium is not exactly what your formula is... it's still directly controlled by your formula, which is all that matters. Calculated elemental ppm is more accurate than an EC pet reading that is just a conversion of electrical conductivity. Don't compare the following numbers to EC readings / conversions. N 120-130 P 40-60 K 180-200 Ca 100+ Mg 75ish S 100ish. This would be a low concentration and a good ballpark to start. I use somethign similar on seedlings and never have an issue. So, using from the first irrigation is no problem, though you can rely on the seed to power itself the first ~10 days or so. sometimes i wait for the 2nd fertigation, but seem to get better results starting day 1. I use promix, which comes with an inidtial charge that is extremely similar, except for much lower potassium. So, in my context whether i fertilize with the first irrigation or not, it gets roughly the same thing from the get-go. from here you can simply observe and adjust... this basic formula, with your adjustments for local variables, will work well on 99% of marijuana plants. It's not my formula. IT's a formula used by several professional Ag companies for 'hydro' nute setups... hydro and soilless in regard to fertilization is essentially the same thing. there are websites and apps that can calculate and tabulate your elemmental ppm from gauranteed analysis lables and dosage. The better ones can even tell you the dosage to hit certain ppm targets. This is how you can use just about any brand of products to get a similar ratio/concentration. if it's a soilless/hydro fertilizer, it's 100% plant available and 100% soluble, so it'll translate across brands without much concern. jacks 321, megacrop, crop salts, sothern ag, masterblend et al all have a ~3 product setup that essentially equates to the above ratio/concentration, but that doesn't mean you can't get there with other products. Brand is mostly irrelevant when dealing with ubiquitous ingredients for soilless/hydro products. check out cocoforcannabis.com. their articles and guides are the best, bar none. The least amount of nonsense science out there. compare their guides to others to see what you should ignore, lol. All sorts of conjecture and unproven hypothesis of people that have no background education or experience on the matter. It's easy to avoid the really retarded stuff like burning your plant or icing the roots, but there's plenty of stuff that sounds right but makes no sense... e.g. anyone that thinks flushing changes the mineral content of buds - developing or not. Simply no biological process exists in the plant where it can change the mineral content of finished buds after the fact. There is no excretion system for such things. Toxicities and eficiencies may impact the end result of flowers, but they are still built according to DNA instructions. Molecules can't just be built whimisically with more Ca.. the molecule wouldn't function properly if it were constructed differently. The whole plant would fail if this were the case.
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KallmyBluff84
KallmyBluff84started grow question 8d ago
My Run off Ph is slowly creeping up. I water plants with 5.7-5.8 ph. But RO went from 6.2-6.4. The salts and Ppm are going down with each watering. What is going on?
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Ultraviolet
Ultravioletanswered grow question 7d ago
If it's going up there is too many cations present medium. Why? Thats another question. Either you added them or coco is releasing them as it breaks down. Calcium, magnesium, pottasium, hydrogen, sodium ions are cations - You are using coco, did you happen to charge it prior to use? More questions than I have answers I'm afraid.
2
Week 2. Vegetation
10d ago
4.5 cm
Height
18 hrs
Light Schedule
24 °C
Day Air Temp
6.2
pH
No Smell
Smell
600 PPM
TDS
65 %
Air Humidity
20 °C
Night Air Temp
0.98 L
Watering Volume
45.72 cm
Lamp Distance
625 PPM
CO₂ Level
KallmyBluff84 Thanks for all the advice you guys I really appreciate it. I did some more research and gain some more knowledge. I changed a few things in my fertilizing technique. Also more frequent watering. I didn’t know about runoffs so I checked it the other day and my PPM was high. I figure is due to the salt and nutrient buildup, but since I started watering to runoff, the PPM has been going down with each watering today I watered my EC was 1.2 and that’s what I’ll keep it out for the week besides that everything is good if you have any pointers or advice, let me know. I do check all comments.
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Grow Questions
KallmyBluff84
KallmyBluff84started grow question 5d ago
Im transplanting soon. I rinsed my coco noir with and added AZOMITE for minerals. The run off ph for soil is 7.3. I’ve been flushing with 5.5 water. It hasn’t went down. What can I do to get the ph down? (I have not transferred yet) just getting the mix ready. 7.3 new soil ph
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 5d ago
pH balance after everything has been dissolved into whatever waer you add to the pot in future. You don't need much silica. If part of normal fertigation, i think it's only 10-30 ppm before it's just a hinderance more than a benefit -- reference material for google search. So an amendment to the medium needs to provide roughly that over time... this is difficult to guage. pretty hard to see effects of silica without a clone 'control' plant to compare - even so probably can't discern from normal genetic diversity and changing local variables etc... way too many moving parts. Since you are using coco coir, i'd stick to normal soilless methods. The advantage of soilless is tightly controlling exact concentration and ratios of nutes around the roots. An amendment with unknwonw release of silica kinda contradicts the method. You can figure it out, if you prefer this path with azomite, but it'll take some trial and error as far as adding too much or too little azomite etc. looks like it is fairly soluble but not very soluble, whatever that means, lol (water solubility 5.9)... could probably grind it and dissolve it to make a stock solution of concentrated liquid, that you can add a mL at a time to fertilizer. In your case i guess it's just the pH, but taht's still a huge hassle.. it's going to continue to dissolve and raise your pH over time until it is exhausted. Another reason to prefer adding it to your fertilizer, then as typical, ph-balance after all nutes have been added and dissolved. Acetic acid is a great option. Cheap and it doesn't add anything that can throw off your nutrient balance. Don't overpay for marijuana branded pH balancers (up or down) - they are just run-of-the-mill acids and bases. You can find the same ingredient for 1/10th the price. 3 gallons of white distilled vinegar (acetic acid) will last a long time. If your fertilizer formula is the same each time, it'll take the same mL per liter (or gallon) to correct teh pH.. measure it out 1mL at a time until you get there, then after that you ddn't have to go through that process again unless you drastically change how much silica is added or a similar effect.
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 5d ago
Also, "7.3" isn't the end of the world. You'll eventually get it back down, and the impact won't be significant. it's one pot.. if throwing out a few dollars isn't a big deal can always just start new. or, start new and let that one soak in some acidic water for a while and use in future after you correct the pH.
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TruTraTri
TruTraTrianswered grow question 5d ago
Use quality soil / medium / coco / pebbles whatever. Why does someone buy shitty stuff that I have to set up from the beginning... So if you want to transplant, just use good medium.
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3
Week 3. Vegetation
4d ago
10.16 cm
Height
18 hrs
Light Schedule
24 °C
Day Air Temp
6.2
pH
No Smell
Smell
600 PPM
TDS
65 %
Air Humidity
20 °C
Night Air Temp
0.98 L
Watering Volume
45.72 cm
Lamp Distance
625 PPM
CO₂ Level
KallmyBluff84 Week three is in the books. She seems well almost double the height transplanting tomorrow. Let me know what you guys think.
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LetItGrowBro
LetItGrowBrocommentedweek 27d ago
Your plant peaked my interest to learn more about growing in coco. I've always used soil, but it seems like if the coco is not buffered/charged it can hinder your growing process. Coco is neutral, so no nutrients. By buffering with cal-mag this should would give your plant a head start by providing it basic cations/nutes, being soil is pre-made with starter nutes. Coco is suppose to hold more water better than soil, to where you should not need to water as frequently. I didnt see anything in your diary regarding buffering/charging your coco or what kind of coco you are using. Your plant looks overwatered and not getting a specific nutrient from the coco, which is causing a nutrient lockout. I would also start your next grow in a smaller container to control your watering. I hope this helps. Also I would flush it if you haven't and let it mostly dry before adding anymore nutrients and water. MJ coco if you want to learn more. https://youtu.be/NzpI856R87I?si=o0HNSHhp0Q0BV2VY
S_herby
S_herbycommentedweek 115d ago
I have a feeling, this plant will grow giant🍯❤️🍪
LetItGrowBro
LetItGrowBrocommentedweek 112d ago
Good luck in this grow! Just like life, its usually trial and error. Research as much as you can. Monitor them, I lived in my grow room at the beginning of my grow journey. Now, I can live life while they grow. One week at a time! FYI distance and intensity of your light maybe off, maybe a stronger light or pull the light up, not to close to where she burns will help those nodes space out a bit, other than that she looks good. Yellowing could be a imbalance ph or overwatering. Water less and bring your light intensity down giving, too much power can hurt her at this stage, yellowing and could stunt her, She will grow well by doing this. (edited)
KallmyBluff84
KallmyBluff84commented11d ago
@LetItGrowBro, it might be the watering. My I have to check soil ph, but my watering have been between 5.5-6.0. Someone commented it might be a nutrient deficiency, so I’ll ramp it up to safe levels this upcoming week.
kingcrab
kingcrabcommentedweek 115d ago
🤞🍀
LetItGrowBro
LetItGrowBrocommentedweek 27d ago
Your plant peaked my interest to learn more about growing in coco. I've always used soil, but it seems like if the coco is not buffered/charged it can hinder your growing process. Coco is neutral, so no nutrients. By buffering with cal-mag this should would give your plant a head start by providing it basic cations/nutes, being soil is pre-made with starter nutes. Coco is suppose to hold more water better than soil, to where you should not need to water as frequently. I didnt see anything in your diary regarding buffering/charging your coco or what kind of coco you are using. Your plant looks overwatered and not getting a specific nutrient from the coco, which is causing a nutrient lockout. I would also start your next grow in a smaller container to control your watering. I hope this helps. Also I would flush it if you haven't and let it mostly dry before adding anymore nutrients and water. MJ coco if you want to learn more. https://youtu.be/NzpI856R87I?si=o0HNSHhp0Q0BV2VY
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