SG and SS Autos 6 Plants

To much nitrogen, probably lock out. Just give pH water and calmag next 2 feeds

No leave them, there fine, theres actually holes in the canopy, don't take any more off until after the stretch if your in need of pull some off. Nice plants btw

Hi Buddy so what the leaves are actually saying 🌿 Key visual cues • Edges curling up / canoeing → classic light or heat stress • Leaves still fairly light–medium green → not nutrient toxicity • No dark, glossy “claw” → rules out nitrogen excess • No burnt tips or necrotic margins → unlikely overfeeding • New growth looks tighter → light intensity too high for current stage This is one of those situations where the plant is saying: “Everything is okay… just a bit too intense up top.” ⸻ Light vs nutrients — the short answer • Light stress: ✅ very likely • Nutrient issue: ❌ unlikely (at least not the primary cause) If it were nutrients, we’d expect darker leaves, clawing, tip burn, or patchy discoloration. Instead, this looks like the plant protecting itself from excess intensity. ⸻ What I’d gently suggest (no panic moves and remember this is just my humble opinion please follow your instincts) • Raise the light a little or reduce intensity ~10–15% • Check canopy temps (especially leaf surface, not just room) • Ensure good airflow across the tops • No need to change feed right now if EC / watering routine is stable Usually, within a day or two, those leaves relax back down. Meaning from the photos this looks more like light/heat stress than a nutrient issue. The upward curl / canoeing on the leaf edges is a common response when the light intensity is a bit high for the plant’s current stage. Color looks healthy overall—no dark clawing or burnt tips that would point to overfeeding. I’d try slightly raising the light or dialing intensity back a bit and keep an eye on canopy temps and airflow. If that’s the cause, you should see the leaves relax within a day or two. Nothing looks serious—just the plant asking for a little less intensity 👍 Growers Love my friend, here if anything is needed 👊 have a wonderful weekended 🙏

Hi ..... ich würde die nächsten male mit ph angepasstem Wasser spülen, bis der ec Wert wieder im normalen Bereich ist..... Gib ihr etwas Zeit und Ruhe, das sie sich von all dem Stress erholen kann😉 Das wird schon wieder 😉 viel Glück

Short answer: I wouldn’t recommend it, especially at the start of flower. GA3 definitely works in the sense that it forces stretch — but that’s also the problem. From people (and a few experiments) who’ve actually tried it on cannabis: Even very low doses (5–10 ppm) can cause excessive internode stretch Bud structure often gets loose / airy It can delay or reduce proper flower development Resin and terpene production usually suffers Timing is extremely unforgiving — a tiny bit too much and you can’t undo it GA3 is sometimes used deliberately to: force male flowers produce seedless / malformed flowers in breeding or research That alone should tell you it’s not really a “finishing aid.” If a plant is stunted going into flower, GA3 doesn’t fix the cause — it just overrides the plant’s hormones, often trading short-term stretch for lower-quality buds. What works better in practice: Stabilize the root zone (watering, EC, oxygen) Reduce stress and let the plant redirect energy naturally Gentle canopy management and patience I’ve yet to see someone use GA3 in early flower and say “this improved yield and quality.” Most say they wouldn’t do it again. So unless this is an experiment and you’re okay with unpredictable results, I’d skip GA3 and let the plant finish on its own.

Hi 🙋‍♂️, It’s possible that you are in third flowering week. And Yes, your buds will Thicken up a lot… its just the behinning. Just give her the time she needs, and watch trichomes… don’t watch on breeders Information to much. It’s an Information Which Can deviante from the time your plant really needs dependsnt on how you care for her. Hope This helped, have fun 🤞🏽👍👌

Hi there. First off, your EC management is spot on. Keeping your input at 1.2 and managing runoff so it doesn't spike past 1.5 shows you have a disciplined feeding schedule. That tight 0.3 margin tells me you aren’t letting salts build up in the medium, which is the "secret sauce" to avoiding pH swings and lockout. Your IPM (Integrated Pest Management) game is also top-tier; most growers wait for a disaster to strike, but you’re already armed with bio-defenses. ​The "Third Person" Perspective: Leaf Diagnosis 🔍 ​If your leaves are showing signs of stress despite your solid EC numbers, they are likely signaling a transpiration or nutrient mobility issue. Since you mentioned something "tried to get in" (likely a pest like spider mites or thrips) and failed, the leaf damage might be the "battle scars" or a secondary reaction to your treatments. ​The Potential Problems: ​VPD Fluctuations: If your environment is too dry or too hot, the plant drinks faster than it can process nutrients, leading to "burnt" tips even at a low EC. ​Stomatal Clogging: Frequent use of oil-based biopesticides can sometimes film over the leaves, making it hard for the plant to "breathe." ​Pathogen Stress: If a pest did pierce the cell walls, it can introduce localized necrosis or "flecking." ​How to Fix & Avoid: ​The Rinse: Perform a light foliar spray with plain, pH-balanced water (30 minutes before lights go out) to clean the leaf surface of any IPM residue. 🚿 ​Environmental Check: Ensure your VPD (Vapor Pressure Deficit) is sitting between 0.8 and 1.2 kPa for the current stage. This ensures the nutrients you're feeding actually move from the roots to the crown. ​The Power of Microbes ​Since you’re already using biofungicides, let's level up that microbial colony. To fix the current stress and prevent future "invaders," you want to focus on Systemic Acquired Resistance (SAR). ​Rhizobacteria (Bacillus amyloliquefaciens): This is the king of "crowding out" bad actors. It creates a biofilm around the roots that acts like a physical shield. 🛡️ ​Trichoderma: These fungi are aggressive. They don't just sit there; they actively seek out and consume pathogenic fungi like Pythium. ​The Pro-Tip: Use a Chitinase-producing microbe. When these microbes detect chitin (the stuff insect shells and fungal cell walls are made of), they release enzymes that literally dissolve the "bad guys." It’s like having a microscopic security team that eats the burglars. If the new growth is lush and green, your IPM and EC strategy is winning the war. ​Keep those hands dirty and your canopy green! You’ve clearly got the passion and the technical skill to take this harvest to the finish line. Sending nothing but massive yields and frosty trichomes your way! 🚀✨

Hi there. First off, your EC management is spot on. Keeping your input at 1.2 and managing runoff so it doesn't spike past 1.5 shows you have a disciplined feeding schedule. That tight 0.3 margin tells me you aren’t letting salts build up in the medium, which is the "secret sauce" to avoiding pH swings and lockout. Your IPM (Integrated Pest Management) game is also top-tier; most growers wait for a disaster to strike, but you’re already armed with bio-defenses. ​The "Third Person" Perspective: Leaf Diagnosis 🔍 ​If your leaves are showing signs of stress despite your solid EC numbers, they are likely signaling a transpiration or nutrient mobility issue. Since you mentioned something "tried to get in" (likely a pest like spider mites or thrips) and failed, the leaf damage might be the "battle scars" or a secondary reaction to your treatments. ​The Potential Problems: ​VPD Fluctuations: If your environment is too dry or too hot, the plant drinks faster than it can process nutrients, leading to "burnt" tips even at a low EC. ​Stomatal Clogging: Frequent use of oil-based biopesticides can sometimes film over the leaves, making it hard for the plant to "breathe." ​Pathogen Stress: If a pest did pierce the cell walls, it can introduce localized necrosis or "flecking." ​How to Fix & Avoid: ​The Rinse: Perform a light foliar spray with plain, pH-balanced water (30 minutes before lights go out) to clean the leaf surface of any IPM residue. 🚿 ​Environmental Check: Ensure your VPD (Vapor Pressure Deficit) is sitting between 0.8 and 1.2 kPa for the current stage. This ensures the nutrients you're feeding actually move from the roots to the crown. ​The Power of Microbes ​Since you’re already using biofungicides, let's level up that microbial colony. To fix the current stress and prevent future "invaders," you want to focus on Systemic Acquired Resistance (SAR). ​Rhizobacteria (Bacillus amyloliquefaciens): This is the king of "crowding out" bad actors. It creates a biofilm around the roots that acts like a physical shield. 🛡️ ​Trichoderma: These fungi are aggressive. They don't just sit there; they actively seek out and consume pathogenic fungi like Pythium. ​The Pro-Tip: Use a Chitinase-producing microbe. When these microbes detect chitin (the stuff insect shells and fungal cell walls are made of), they release enzymes that literally dissolve the "bad guys." It’s like having a microscopic security team that eats the burglars. If the new growth is lush and green, your IPM and EC strategy is winning the war. ​Keep those hands dirty and your canopy green! You’ve clearly got the passion and the technical skill to take this harvest to the finish line. Sending nothing but massive yields and frosty trichomes your way! 🚀✨ Peace and love ✌️ 💚

Hey there, fellow gardener! It’s always a pleasure to connect with someone who’s clearly deep in the "green thumb" trenches. There’s nothing quite like the late-stage flower hustle to keep things interesting. 🌿 ​First off, I’ve got to give you credit for looking into natural surfactants like Yucca (often called Yacca). The fact that you’re even thinking about nutrient uptake efficiency at this stage shows you’re dialed in on the details. Most growers just dump more feed when they see a lag, but you’re actually looking at the mechanics of the root zone. That’s how you get those top-shelf results. 👏 ​💧 The Lowdown on Yucca Root Extract ​To answer your big question: Yes, it absolutely works. Yucca contains natural compounds called saponins. Think of these as nature’s soap. It is a powerful surfactant that breaks the surface tension of your water. This allows your nutrient solution to penetrate the growing medium evenly rather than just running down the "path of least resistance" or "tunneling" through dry pockets. ​Can you introduce it this late? Yes! In fact, late flowering is a great time for it. As plants get heavy with flowers, their water demand peaks, and salt buildup in the medium can become a real headache. Yucca helps "flush" and redistribute those salts so the roots can keep grabbing what they need right until the finish line. ​⚠️ Potential Problems & How to Fix Them ​Even with the good stuff, there are a few things to watch out for: ​The Problem: Over-Foaming. 🛁 Because yucca is a natural soap, if you use too much or have a high-pressure irrigation system, you’ll end up with a bubble bath in your reservoir. ​The Fix: Start with a very small dose—usually 1/16th to 1/8th of a teaspoon per gallon if it’s a concentrated powder. A little goes a long way. ​The Problem: Root Sensitivity. Introducing anything new in late flower can sometimes stress a plant if the dose is too high. ​The Fix: Use it every other watering rather than every time to gauge how the plant reacts. ​How to Avoid: Always pre-mix your yucca in a small cup of warm water before adding it to the main reservoir to ensure it's fully dissolved and won't clump. ​ The Microbe Connection (The Secret Sauce) ​Since you're focused on absorption, you really should consider how yucca plays with microbes. ​Think of yucca as the "delivery truck" and microbes as the "chefs." Yucca breaks down the water tension so the microbes—specifically Mycorrhizae and Bacillus subtilis—can colonize the root hairs more effectively. ​Pro-Tip: If you combine a yucca extract with a high-quality microbial tea, the saponins actually help the microbes "stick" to the root surfaces and organic matter. This creates a more robust rhizosphere, making nutrients (especially phosphorus and potassium, which you need right now) much more bioavailable. ​Using microbes alongside yucca in these final weeks ensures your plant isn't just sitting in "wet dirt," but is actively processing every drop of nutrition you provide. Ps.. Potassium Humate will help with CEC(cation exchange capacity) making nutrients available, adding carbon and is a soil conditioner.. Best of luck.. ✌️ 💚

Hello there! It’s a pleasure to connect with a fellow grower. There is nothing quite like that final stretch of a cycle where the hard work starts to manifest into something special. 🌿 ​What You're Nailing Right Now 🎯 ​First off, credit where it’s due: your EC stability is fantastic. Keeping your input at 1.2-1.3 and seeing 1.3 come back out shows you’ve mastered the balance of nutrient uptake versus evaporation. You aren't overfeeding, and you aren't salt-loading the medium. That level of precision is exactly what keeps plants healthy enough to actually handle a ripening stress phase. ​The Strategy: To Dry Back or Not? ⚖️ ​The "Dry Back" (increasing the period between waterings to trigger generative growth) is a powerful tool, but it’s all about timing. If your three lead plants are showing cloudy trichomes and the pistils (hairs) are roughly 60-70% turned, you are in the perfect window to trigger that hormonal shift. ​The Potential Problems: ​The "Every Two Days" Trap: Feeding every two days right before the sleep cycle can be risky during ripening. Plants don't drink much at night; this keeps the root zone cold and soggy, which can invite Botrytis (Bud Rot) or "lazy" ripening where the plant stays in a vegetative mindset. ​The Solution: Shift your watering to early morning (lights on). This allows the plant to transpire and use the nutrients during peak metabolic hours. To trigger ripening, extend that "every two days" to "every three days" for those specific plants, or simply reduce the volume of water by 20%. This mimics a drought, signaling the plant to dump its remaining energy into resin production to protect its "seeds" (even if there aren't any). ​The Secret Weapon: Microbe Mastery ​While you're manipulating dry backs, your root zone chemistry is changing. This is where you can really flex your knowledge. ​Phosphorus Solubilizing Bacteria (PSB): During ripening, the plant craves Phosphorus. Using microbes like Bacillus megaterium helps unlock any P tied up in the media, ensuring the plant has the fuel to swell those calyxes. ​The "Sugar Push": Introducing a microbial catalyst with high-quality carbohydrates (like unsulphured blackstrap molasses or fulvic acid) feeds the Rhizosphere. This doesn't just feed the plant; it fuels the microbes that produce secondary metabolites, which are the precursors to the terpenes and flavonoids we all love. ​Root Protection: As you dry the medium out more, you stress the roots. Adding Trichoderma now acts like a biological shield, preventing any pathogens from seizing the opportunity while the plant’s defenses are focused on the flowers. ​The Verdict 📅 ​You absolutely have a week to play with. I would suggest starting the increased dry back on those three leaders now while keeping the others on their current schedule. By the time the others catch up, your leaders will be coated in that final "frost" layer. ​May your harvest be heavy and your cure be perfect. You’ve clearly put in the work—now just let the biology cross the finish line for you! ✌️✨ Good luck ✌️ 💚

Heating and light accelerate degradation from thc to cbn, once a plant switches growth from fattening to full blown trichomes is when you should really look to cool things off and lower the DLI if preservation of the profile is your priority, having yield as your main priority might have you running 86F right until harvest, which would more or less give you the annoying 10%amber 20% milky but 70% still empty due to accelerated degradation. By slowing things down and opening up a plants oxidative capacity (less light) and lower temps, this allows plant to focus on filling trichomes rather than devoting large pools of energy into photoprotection and ROS enzymes. The more a plant is "photosynthesizing" the less oxidative capacity it has available. And the faster trichomes will degrade under heat and light. Generally speaking. My best results have came when I focus fully on trichome preservation past a point in flower. Keeping micronutrients available in last 2 weeks is imo important for final product if taste flavor and smell is priority. Going to lose a little yield but its worth it to me.

Viscosity of syrup like concentrates can be hard to dilute, if any globs or lumps form it can create pockets of bacteria that will eventually stagnate causing problems. Best and safest bet speaking from experience is powdered molasses, as this removes alot of the potential for problems. Oxygen is your first major bottleneck when adding carbon to feed the Micros. 40% of all the carbon a plant captured is exuded through the roots into the rhizosphere to feed the conversion of that carbon. Nitrogen is a requirement for the roots to convert the carbon.into usable energy or atp. No nitrogen no ATP. Root respiration is separate but similar part of cellular respiration which happens in the mitochondria of the leaves (mostly), Microorganisms compete with the plant for oxygen in the rootzones. A large percentage of the time people who add sugars are unaware and very rapidly hypoxia or anoxia (oxygen deprivation) become present rather than provide any benefit to the plant. Root respiration of soil is directly linked to rh of air. The carbon to nitrogen ratio in a medium is used to signal autophagy. (Dumping of nitrogen to fuel the carbon conversion). For smoothest smoke come harvest you want to dump all the nitrates and keep a little ammoniacal nitrogen. Once the micros convert the carbon sugars into energy, they release CO2 which is "used carbon". This CO2 becomes trapped over time in the medium and the more co2 you have in a medium the better it retains moisture. So as flower progresses less and less evaporation occurs due to canopy etc, more and more moisture retention. This slowly builds towards hypoxia. Soon as oxygen goes in a grow its all over, nothing works and everything breaks down. In order to keep the medium honest you need to have a solid negative pressure within your tent indoors, this replicates high and low pressure fronts that mothernature uses to barometrically pump fresh oxygen in to a medium and co2 and nitrogen out of a medium and oxidized into thin air. Failure to do so when adding sugars will quickly destroy a mediums oxygen content. WHY? Oxygen moves 32000 times slower in a medium than air. It moves 320,000 times slower in a medium saturated above a point. Soon as medium becomes oversaturated, aerobic fermentation stops, entire plant runs off 10% ,ph skews, acids relesee, game over. To which you will be advised to add more calmag by some guru on GD. Adding organic carbon in the form of sugars is highly beneficial, but its not as simple as throwing it in a medium and hoping for the best. It required the underlying fundamental knowledge that goes with it in order to successfully utilize it without causing major issues. Very best of luck whether you decide to or not, probably not recommended, but with a little know how and a little messing around I successfully have my tent running 1200-1600ppm come morning, as opposed to the standard 6-800pmm I'd normally get from the compensation point alone. A solid negative pressure setup can increase yields by upto 20% A solid co2 setup can increase yields another 20% Its alot of work and study to make it work. For a few extra % . But once you have mastered the 8 cardinal rules of plant growth, and optimized them to their full potential, then it becomes a game of squeezing out that other 20% from high levels of co2, consistently and for free.... well almost free. Not for everyone I'll freely admit. If not for you then stay in your lane grow however you want to grow, best of luck.

Too early to judge, it will be decent plants, so smell would be huge issue, i would ripe one type and harvest early other one, but both at same time. One week is not big gap , there wont be issues. Check trichomes at right spots of buds to see maturity and you will know. Never check any leaf. Some strains bulk up faster, you still have like 3-4 weeks at least ... Maybe smallish tent with 4 inch max carbon filter setup would be smart buy to avoid such mess in future, earlier you buy,, less you will regret that you didn't do ir eatlier ... ;)))) Quality of cardboard drying setup or drying above lights in grow area will be way worse than in right conditions.

seedling - vege - flower... clearly flower. These labels help interpret but life is a spectrum.. .constant change over time. the labels only help break it down into understandable bits. it's done when it is done... yes a useless circular logic, lol. You simply observe and react... if you don't like the results from your timing or want to experiement with early-to-late harvest window, change your trigger next time. Be consistent so you can compare and make a choice. it comes down to personal preference. how much amber? (trichomes on calyxes only) Are the buds dense or fluffy? (relative to genetics). Are the pistils mostly turning color? Do they look short or long? (calyxes plump around them - an illusion that they shrink, but do eventually coil up) Things you can observe are your trigger. Exactly when may take you a little trial and error.

Hey bro, by my experience with gorilla autos I never flush and they take 99 days seed to harvest, 15 weeks. If you growing in coco you dont need to flush, feed her till the end, once you feel that she is close to harvest wait 4 days without water for her to dry and harvest. Check it out my grows, I made 4 gorillas this year, no need for flush. flushing is a myth. doesnt change a thing on coco or lightmix

You are way off for most of the plants ................3-4 weeks. Only one looks about 2 weeks away. Personally, I like to stop all nutrients and supplements about 10-14 days before estimated harvest day and just give plain water in normal amounts and at normal intervals during those last 10-14 days as a "flush". I generally dial back the (estimated) last feed before the "flush" period, otherwise feed as usual. For "flushing", there is no need to drown your plants with gallons of water in the hope that it will magically do something. As a rough guide, I stop feeding and start my "flush" when there are about 95% brown pistils/hairs and harvest 10-20 days later when there are 98-99% brown pistils hairs. This co-incides with the oft quoted "10-30% amber trichome" recommendation without having to be too anal about it.

Seems like it'd be better as a soil amendment and not mixed into a soilless medium. Unless you are using coco as a base for something with multiple amendments not listed. Better to think of it as you would a soil at that point as far as methods and the whys and hows of it. Adding biochar to a soilless grow is definitely less useful than adding it to a soil - even if coco coir is the base for a living or super 'soil,' it's a 'soil' in that context as far as how to treat it. In a soilless medium, you should also fertilize every irrigation with a minimum 10% runoff (this prevents buildup and maintains a consistent equilibrium and balance of nutes around the roots). That's one of the reasons why you get superior growth with soilless -- a consistent level of nutes at a proper ratio that doesn't impede each other. Nutrients intake is an active process so the balance slowly is lost over time because of how the plant naturally functions, but the constant fertigation+runoff resets it each time. This isn't a personal opinion. It's a well-known best practice that predates the marijuana hobby. Might need a lower concentration compared to every-other irrigation. 600-700ppm of a well-balanced feed is all you need. Going over that just pollutes your local water table more than necessary. .e.g you 'can' feed with 100ppm of P but the plant is not going to make use of large portions which then goes down the drain with the runoff.