Day 15 - I added a small oscillating fan to get the air moving in the lower part of my tent. I moved the light to 19/5 to give the plants a little more rest since they seem pretty stressed. Today makes 8 days since I watered and they aren't showing any signs of getting thirsty yet. Soil still feels moist just a couple inches down. I'm thinking the little bit of yellow that plant 1 is starting to show might actually be the beginnings of a zinc deficiency which could be caused by root stress which can be caused by over watering. So when I do finally water I'll just throw some Recharge in there and see what that does. No nutes yet.
Plants 2, 3, and 4 are still stunted but they're giving me hope that they're going to recover from the over watering. They weren't doing much for a few days and now their growth is noticeable every time I check on them. Plant 1 is probably doing better because I didn't give it as much water from the spray bottle early on. I was afraid the seeds that hadn't made it to the surface yet needed to be sprayed far more often than they actually did. So the longer they took to make it to the surface, the more water they got. Plant 4 must have been drowning.
I haven't seen any sign of a fungus gnat in a few days so I'm guessing it was just one that managed to fly in through an open window. Fingers crossed.
I also got a new (expensive) pH meter and after cross-checking it with four different methods my cheap pH meter I've been using is actually accurate.
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Day 19 - I finally had to water on Day 16 when plants started to show first signs of thirst. I had to go out of town for a couple of days and I got home to a lot of new growth. At this point my plan is to LST plant 1 and probably leave 2, 3, and 4 alone. The internodal growth on plant 1 has more competition than the other plants. We'll see what happens though.
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Day 21 - Plants were showing some signs of thirst again so I watered them with nutes because the deficiency I've been seeing that I thought was zinc is probably a magnesium deficiency. The lower leaves are thick and crispy in addition to that yellowing. I started LST on plant 1 and I'm probably going to have to start to LST plant 4 just because it's twice as tall as any other plant now. Plant 3 has absolutely entered flowering and it's definitely female. Do autoflowers usually flower at different times or is it strain/breeder dependent? I was planning to harvest all of them at the same time and dry them in my grow tent but I think I'm going to have to get a harvest tent if they're flowering at different times. Oh, and I opened up the humidifier to refill it the other day and there was a dead fungus gnat in the reservoir. I haven't seen any since so maybe it was just a loner. More pics tomorrow.
Hard to see from the picture but if your fliter was there then it is probably dust. It is always a good idea to keep your tent disinfected anyway though. You can wipe everything down with clorox wipes to disinfect it.
Does the issue on the leaves look like a magnesium deficiency, or something else? On plant 1, the worst looking leaves are crispy and seem thicker than other leaves, but the set of leaves below that one is still green and soft, and in shade.
Looks like the beginning of a magnesium deficiency. With my autos I usually start giving cal/mag week 4 at 0.5 ml per liter. It usually works out fine. Your lights are very strong so adding in the cal/mag helps them deal with light stress better . Hard to tell in your photos but your pots look pretty dry make sure you are giving them enough water and nutrients. They are large enough to give them a good watering but don't soak the whole pot. Start a nice wet dry watering cycle on her letting her dry out a bit between waterings. It will force the roots to grow deeper in the pot looking for moisture. Also if possible try to lower you ph to 5.8 to 6.2 which would be ideal for the best nutrient absorption. Up to 6.5 ph is acceptable for soil. If the magnesium issue starts to present itself on new leaves You can use 1/4 teaspoon of Epsom salt (Magnesium Sulfate) in 1 quart of water and use it as a fine spray solution once a week. Be sure to get under the leaves. Also try to spray at lights out to avoid burn spots on your leaves or early morning before the lights come on then leave a fan blowing on the plant until it drys then it can handle the light. The existing deficiency on the leaf may not improve or change go by the newer leaf growth. Good luck👌
Can I salvage any of the buds from a plant with bud rot? I'm not seeing any actual fuzz anywhere on the plant besides where I took that picture, could I throw out that bud and keep the rest? Should I take everything from that plant out of the dry tent so it doesn't spread?
You should definitely put that bud and the buds next to it out of the tent but be careful not to shake that bud to prevent massive spore release. Take some time and carefully watch all the other buds for signs of mould and do this daily. I would advise to dismantle the bigger buds to prevent more mould and dry them on a rack. Thats one of the options you have to make sure enough air can flow around those big dense buds. Better dismantle before risking more mould and a bigger loss.
@@Sublime374,I cannot rubbing and they’re very green they look very healthy but growing very slow there in a 5 gallon in a 3 gallon pots how do you send a picture on there so you can see the plants can you do that
Just cut the bud with the rot generously, and check the other plants often, b4cause this Girls grow very dense and its hard to discover rot... if you see wilting sugarleaves is a sign for something going on
@Mrs_Larimar, Thanks. I kind of opened up every part of the bud with mold and deep inside it was getting fuzzy all over so I threw out the entire bud. I washed my hands in between touching buds I thought might have mold and anything else. The weird thing is with the white areas on the buds is that I'm pretty sure it's just "albino" plant material that never got any light because it's not fuzzy with anything but trichomes as far as I can tell. I'm going to let the buds with the white areas just dry in their own corner of the house and see if those areas turn into mold.
@@Sublime374, I've seen a lot of great grows using the GH Flora line up. With the LED if your going to to do a lot of growing you may want to think about getting a good PPF/PAR meter to measure the intensity of your lights at different distances. Their not cheap but they take away the guess work.
@Philindicus, Thanks, I appreciate it. I looked around at some other reviews of the light I'm using and some seasoned growers have suggested increasing cal/mag when using it. I had an overwatering problem in the beginning and now I'm watering about every four days but I've got a fan blowing on the pots so the top dries out quickly because I've had some fungus gnats. Next time I water I'll just do 2ml of cal/mag in a gallon of 6.2 water. New growth looks healthy and happy but I want to keep it that way.
I would try to treat each plant indiviually. They may have different feeding and watering schedules. Personally on my current grow I went from growing 4 plants to 7 plants and lost track of who got what. They were all drinking at different rates. I discovered I forgot to feed one plant. Which caused an issue.Now I write everything down. For some reason in my mind I expected to water and feed them all at once. Not the case.
@Philindicus, Thanks. I've got a whiteboard in the grow room that helps me keep track of watering and feeding. Each plant is getting slightly different nutes at this point and I water them when they start to look thirsty. I watch the big fan leaves to know if they're thirsty. Last time I watered they all just happened to get thirsty on the same day, except 4. I'll give plant 4 about a liter of water when I do water it. It's yellowing so fast I'm really giving up on it, but that's ok, because I'm starting my next seeds in about a week and I'll need the space.
@@Sublime374,I cannot rubbing and they’re very green they look very healthy but growing very slow there in a 5 gallon in a 3 gallon pots how do you send a picture on there so you can see the plants can you do that
@Lancemosh, A lot of times slow growth is caused by over watering. Check out this website and see if it helps: https://www.growweedeasy.com/cannabis-plant-problems/overwatering
The other thing that can stunt a plant's growth is if the container it's in is too small. Plants that are older than 3 weeks should be in at least a 3-gallon pot.
Just another update. I looked closely at some pictures and the mold was on plant 1 before it went into the harvest tent, which means the grow tent was exposed to mold. So I wiped every square inch of the grow tent with bleach wipes, let it air out for a couple hours, moved plants 2 and 3 to the main tent so that I could wipe down the harvest tent the same way. Now I've got the harvest tent with a floor fan blowing into it to make sure it's totally aired out because I don't want that smell getting in the bud. When that's aired out I'll move plants 2 and 3 back to the harvest tent so that tomorrow I can get started in the main tent with the seeds that I popped. Oh yeah, counting is hard, I actually have 9 seeds.
I completely took apart every cola on plant 1. Every bud has been pulled apart and while there isn't any mold visible, there's lots of the "albino" plant material in areas that never got any light. It looks like after that white material gets exposed to air for a while it to turns a dark reddish brown, like bud rot. I'm assuming it's bud rot waiting to happen but I'll just have to keep an eye on it and see. All of plant 1 is far away from the harvest area. All of the materials used when trimming and harvesting have been cleaned or thrown out.
I went in and cut one of the "twin buds" off of plant 2 because that's the kind of area that has all of the albino growth on plant 1. The part of that bud that was growing into its "twin" has some of that same albino growth. If it is bud rot, I'm hoping that's the only part on plant 2 with it. The area where plant 1 got moldy is kind of a dead zone for air flow so I'm trying to stay optimistic that it's going to be contained to that one bit of bud, but that albino growth is telling me something isn't right. I'll update when there's more to update.
@Majormolasses Right now I've got the light (HLG 550 v2) turned all the way down and daytime temps are around 75 with it falling as low as 66 at night. With the new humidifier I put in the tent, the humidity is remaining much more stable, around 50-60% at all times. I keep a tower fan running 24/7 in addition to the exhaust fan that's pulling about 250 CFM. I had a filter over my intake vent but I noticed the walls of the tent were getting sucked in so I just have what's basically a hair net over the intake to catch any dust bunnies or anything like that, so fresh air should always be flowing in without a problem. There was one time when I forgot to turn the tower fan back on (I turn it off to spray water on the soil) and the humidity got up to about 80% for a couple of hours, but I don't know if the air up higher was actually that wet. It was right after I got done spraying water and the thermometer/hydrometer was directly on the pot I watered. I also have two clip-on fans above my light to push hot air towards the exhaust fan, but it really doesn't produce much heat so I've been using them to push hot air down to the plants. My tent is in my basement, but it's not a true basement. The side of the basement my tent is on isn't below ground. The basement is usually 5 or 6 degrees colder than the rest of the house but the humidity is the same throughout. Keeping my temp high enough is the biggest challenge I've had so far which is why I use the clip-on fans to push the hot air down. So yeah, there's lots of air flow in the tent. All of that air flow is why I'm more and more confident it was just mineral dust from running the old humidifier. Also, after removing that humidifier there's no longer any kind of smell that resembles mildew. Thanks for the advice :)