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-Purchased air con. Single duct. Placed it inside the tent until I can properly duct it into the tent. Avgtemp 81 degrees.
-replaced dead seedling
-my two best plants seem to be clawing and struggling
-Broken ballast. Weak light out put.
-Took 5 days to replace ballast
-Developed Pythium and root rot in one plant and it was spreading to another tank
-treated it with 30 ml bleach in reservoir
-Pythium and root rot cleared up within 24 hours
-aircon properly ducted. Temps under control. 83 -85 with batwing reflector . Need air cooled hood.
-End PPM 900
-SCROG started
-Installed aircooled hood
-Explosion of growth
-2 plants affected by rot rot and Pythium in wk 3 are slightly stunted
-started 2 seedlings in case the stunted plants need to be replace
-2 solo cups 50-50 perlite vermiculite
-10 gallons of water in 7 days
-SCROG training continued
-ppm end 1050
-Plant growth explosion continues
-been clear of rot rot since incorporating bleach as preventative measure. .5ml/gallon to keep resevoir sterile
-trellising continues
-12 gallons of water in 7 days
-start ppm 2300
End ppm 1250
-1050 ppm absorbed by plants!
-Root rot plants have recovered
-Switched to 1000w HPS
-replacement plant has begun flowering
-solo cup seedlings transported to 3 gallon pot (50-50 perlite vermiculite)
-trellis training complete
-light at maximum height
-Will fill holes in SCROG with the two seedlings and the replacement plant
-left for trip out of town, added an extra 240ml (8.5ml/gallon)
-13gallons of water in 5 days
-Had roots stuck in the recirculating tube of my best plant. Had to remove roots and moved all the plants around after fixing the problem to change up their locations and growth patterns.
-Wk 8 Day 3 : (Day 52 from seedling)
-Added new SCROG #2 net at 20 inches.
-Added nutrients for the week based on 28 gallon tank.
-Cleaned up underbrush of dead and dying vegetation
-Rotated a few plants before committing them to the SCROG
-Hand defoliated any fan leaves that showed damage and blocked potential prime bud sites. First moderate haircut in this growncycle. (Grower’s note: I know people say not to defoliate autoflower’s, but with the explosive growth coming from the RDWC system, the plants have grown big and hardy enough that I think a little haircut would go along ways towards developing an even canopy, that is my primary consideration when I consider any training. I’m trying to guide the plants to an even canopy with a bud site in each trellis ideally and no light reaching the floor so no energy is wasted)
-Added 7 gallons of RO water. (20 gallons added in 10 days (5gal, 6gal, 2gal, 7gal). Total 28 gallons in reservoir
Wk 8 Day 6
-Added 5 gallon of RO
-Cleaned up underbrush with hand pruning and defoliation.
-I’ve reached the top end of my ppm experiments. I’ve begun to notice a slight burning of the tips, Will not push the ppm any harder and will abstain from adding nutrients in wk 9 to further lower ppms.
-grower’s note: one of my plants is significantly bushier and shorter than the other plants. I realize now that is the plant I accidentally topped while I was trellising the plant at 10 inches. The effects of topping are notable because the topped plant, while one of my strongest plants, is not as tall as the other plants. Accidental topping that auto significantly reduced the height and changed the growth pattern of the plant.
Actually a feed related question.
A few weeks back I accidentally boosted my ppms to 2300+. I thought I would burn them, but instead the plants seem to love it, eating on average 1000ppms per week.
How high can i push the ppm?
Is there such a thing as too much Calmag?
No I personally would not run that high. When doing so ur going to eventually burn them. Maybe not now but it will show up. U don't need to give more nutrients for bigger bud. U need to give more watts. Bigger grow light/more grow lights
I've pushed 3500 ppm to autoflowers, twice a week and they loved it, I've never had a nutrient burn issues. I would say each strain or hell even each plant will eat different, just slowly add more until you feel like you're feeding them what you want. I've spoken with breeders who have told me they regularly run 7000 ppm during flowering. Experiment and find what works for you. As far as ppm and pH meters I would recommend an Apera PC60. Happy Growing!!
Wk 9 Day 6
-Added 5 gallons RO water
-lollipopped under the canopy (leave the plants alone till harvest day, no more training techniques)
-Note: feed nutrients sometime during week 10 then flush until wk 12 to 14.
Wk 9 Day 4
-Added 10 gallons RO water
-Cleaned up dead and damaged leaves
Wk 9 Day 2
-Added 7 gallons RO water
-Trellised tall buds
-Super crop long branches to help fill the gaps in the canopy
-Plants we’re suffering wind burn. Replaced the big fan with 2 small clip fans. Wind burn has subsided 8 hours later. Monitor in the coming days to confirm airflow above canopy is adequate.
Wk 10 Day 6
-Moved my stunted Pythia plant to my bumper crop so it can flower for an extra two weeks and be harvested at the same time as my bumper plants. This frees up valuable space for my MVP plants to express themselves during this next 4 weeks of flower
-Transported 4 gallons at 1200 ppm out of the RWDC reservoir
Wk 10 Day 5
-Added 10 gallons RO water
-Added Nutrients to maintain PPM at 1200 at 28 gallons
WK 10 Day 2
-Added 5 gallons RO
-Added Nutrients (will feed on wk 11, then no nutrients until harvest end of wk 16 weeks from now)
(Grower’s note : I’m considering chopping the plant I accidentally topped at the end of wk 12. The topping has significantly changed how the plant developed compared to the other plants and seems to be a little farther along in flower)
Wk 11 Day 1
-Added 10 gallon tap water to help balance PH (PH 5.9)
-Last Feed for the oldest plants
Wk 11 Day 4
-Added 5 gallons RO water
-Buds are beginning to fatten up considering harvesting end of wk 12 for some of the most mature.
Wk 11 Day 6 (Day 76)
-Added 5 gallons RO water
The40thieves
