Morning Lemon AK-47 Collaboration

FEELING CHEMICALLY IN-BALANCE WATER Using good, clean, quality water is very important when growing cannabis after all you will be consuming the fruits of your labor. I will try to keep this topic fairly simple whenever possible. Two important tools you will need a TDS meter and a PH. meter. TDS METERS TDS meters will typically give two types of readings E.C. (Electrical Conductivity) and PPM (Parts Per Million) To put this simply it will allow us to measure how concentrated our nutrient solution is when we feed our plants. E.C. is really the most accurate and universal reading that is the same where ever you live in the world. PPM is the most confusing part about using a TDS meter. The fact that manufacturers of the meters use 3 different conversion factors from EC to achieve a ppm readout, depending on which country you live in - 0.50, 0.64 and 0.70. The use of ppm when measuring the strength/concentration of nutrients in solution is not optimal, a bit cumbersome and prone to error or confusion. Higher quality TDS meters will allow you to measure using E.C. and 0.50, 0.64 and 0.70 conversion factors. These conversion factors are important to take into account when comparing grower diaries since some one growing in Australia may be using a different conversion factor than a grower in the E.U or USA. This could lead to over feeding or under feeding your plants. When calculating nutrient concentrations, you need to measure your tap water ppm level and subtract that amount from your total ppm reading after adding your nutrients to your water. Example: Tap water reads 200 ppm. You add your nutrients to the water it now reads 500 ppm. The actual concentration of nutrients is 300 ppm (500ppm – 200ppm = 300 ppm) If using tap water/well water, a ppm range of 50 to 300 ppm (0.50 scale TDS meter) would be acceptable if it’s higher than this you may have water quality issues. These issues can cause future difficulty when mixing your nutrients and trying to adjust your ph. Typically “hard water” due to high amounts of calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate just to name a few can create a condition called ph. bounce. Ph. bounce occurs when you attempt to lower the ph. of hard water using acids which initially lower the ph. of the water but within a few hours the ph. bounces back up because of excess minerals in the water. This ph. instability issue can lead to a condition known as nutrient lock out. This will lead to serious deficiencies in your plants. If your tap water contains chlorine simply fill a bucket with water and leave it open for 24 hours and the chlorine should dissipate. If you’re in a rush use an aquarium air pump with an air stone for a few hours to speed up the process. Chlorinated water will kill your beneficial bacteria in your soil. If you live in an area where your water contains Chloramines do not use this on your plants it will not dissipate from the water. If you’re unsure contact your local water authority and ask which product they add to kill bacteria in your drinking water. Most water companies will list the water quality results on their web sites. I highly recommend using reverse osmosis water it is ideal because it’s very close to pure water. If your serious about growing, invest in a small portable unit to filter your water. These units typically have a carbon type filter to help remove chlorine. Distilled water should be pure water and can be used if you only have one or two plants. Both of these after processing will start off with a neutral ph. of 7.0 then when exposed to air the ph. will drop to 5.0 to 5.5. The lack of dissolved solids in the water makes it easier to add only the necessary nutrients in the ideal proportions that meets our plant’s needs. It also allows the ph. to be adjusted more easily. https://medteknutrients.com.au/ec-electric-conductivity-science/ https://www.thegoodearthorganics.com/tips/ppm/ PH. METERS An ideal ph. for growing cannabis in soil would be 5.8 to 6.2 for the best nutrient absorption. Some growers will use a ph. as high as 6.5 with good success. Using a ph. that is outside this range will increase the likely hood of a nutrient lock out condition which will cause nutrient absorption issues for your roots. I highly recommend purchasing a good quality ph. meter that allows you to replace the sensor tip which is usually made of glass. These sensors do wear out over time and if not maintained properly will give you an erratic or false ph. reading. It’s important to keep your meter clean, calibrated and stored using the proper storage solutions recommended by the manufacturer to ensure a longer sensor life. Using manufactured ph. up and ph. down solutions is your best and most effective option for adjusting your final ph. after adding your nutrients to your water. Most ph. meters have a thermometer. There is a correlation between temperature and ph. levels which your meter automatically takes into consideration when calculating ph. The ideal water temperature for marijuana is between 68° and 73° F (20° to 23° C). If the water gets too hot or too cold, the roots can’t properly absorb nutrients as well. Hot water also holds less oxygen than cold water. You want to avoid temperature shocking your root zone. The plants roots and beneficial microbes need oxygen to stay healthy. https://www.hannainst.com/ https://www.bluelab.com/home NUTRIENTS Let’s talk nutrients this is definitely a very opinionated aspect of growing any plant period. Auto flower cannabis “do not” need high concentrations of nutrients. It would be unusual if you used more than half-strength nutrients during the high point of bloom when nutrients are most needed for great bud development. The dizzying array of nutrient products is truly insane. There are a lot of good nutrients brands to choose from so do a bit of research before you choose one. What I do recommend for beginners is to stick with one nutrient line up if possible, that’s specifically formulated for growing cannabis. Occasionally mixing different brands of nutrients can create issues with conflicts occurring between the different types, and forms of nutrients which different manufacturers use. This can lead to nutrient excesses or deficiencies. Each product in a manufacturers nutrient line up is designed to give your plants what they need when they need it. Save the experimenting when you have a few grows under your belt. MACRO NUTRIENTS Typically listed as the proportions N-P-K N-Nitrogen: Although nitrogen is readily available in the atmosphere, most plants can’t absorb it from the air and instead need to take it up from the soil via their roots. It is particularly important for photosynthesis and more of this nutrient is used during the vegetative phases. Nitrogen is vital for the production of chlorophyll, which plants use to convert carbon dioxide (or CO2) from the atmosphere into glucose, used as energy for vegetative growth. P-Phosphorus: This is vital for the development of strong roots. Flowering plants usually need extra phosphorus, which is reflected in its higher concentration in fertilizers designed for use during flowering. It encourages more bud sights to develop. K-Potassium: Like nitrogen and phosphorus, potassium helps strengthen a plant’s metabolism and is necessary for both photosynthesis and the plant’s production of vital proteins. It also helps strengthen the plant’s immune system, leaving it more resilient to pests, infections, and diseases. It is also essential to help the buds’ bulk up properly during the late bloom phase. While nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are important all throughout the cannabis growth cycle, the ratios in which plants need these nutrients changes depending on which part of the growth cycle a plant is in. Seedlings, for example, need different nutrients than plants that are about to begin flowering. Here are some “basic” guidelines to the NPK ratios to meet the needs of cannabis plants in various stages of the growth cycle. Ideal proportions vary between different nutrient manufacturers. 1-1-2 Seedling stage up to 3 nodes 2-1-3 Vegetative 2-2-4 Bloom 0-3-3 Late bloom You will typically see one-part, two-part, three-part nutrients. The most affordable are one- part nutrients these would contain basic macro nutrients like N-P-K in specific ratios for either vegetative stage of growth or bloom/flowering stage. They will also contain most of, if not all the micro nutrients needed to keep your plants healthy. Next would be two-part nutrients. The quality of the nutrients is usually of higher quality and contain “chelated” nutrients which allow for better absorption by the root system. I’ll keep this simple. The reason they are separated is because they contain specific elements which will not mix together properly when in a concentrated form. But when added to your water separately and become diluted they will mix properly in the correct proportions. Three-part nutrients use a separate grow formulation, micro nutrient formulation and bloom formulation in varying proportions depending on which stage you’re in and can be a very cost-effective way to feed your plants. It is possible to only use these basic types of nutrients to grow cannabis to harvest. But I would highly recommend adding a few supplemental nutrients to your arsenal. Adding supplemental calcium and magnesium is usually required at some point especially when your plants start to enter the flowering stage. They will become cal/mag hungry and need this for proper bud development or the buds will start to steal the nutrients from your leaves. In my experience with auto flower strains cal/mag deficiencies start showing up around week 6. In order to prevent this, I recommend adding small doses of cal/mag in to your nutrient regime starting in end of week 3 or beginning of week 4 no later. I say small doses because most cal/mag products will contain nitrogen. Using too much nitrogen can cause nutrient burn especially in smaller or younger plants. Start with ¼ strength cal/mag then as the weeks progress slowly increase to ½ strength by week 5 or 6. Note: Using “too” much calcium and magnesium can lead to nutrient lock out issues with macro nutrient potassium which is also needed for proper bud development. Calcium (Ca): Low mobility Used in making cell walls, and in some enzyme reactions, calcium provides a base for the neutralization of organic acids. It facilitates the activities of growing points, especially with root tips. Calcium deficiencies can show as dying or dead tissue on new leaves. Leaves may curl under. Overdoses of potassium or nitrogen can cause calcium deficiencies – even if calcium is available. Over-watering can also interfere with calcium uptake. Absorption slows in cooler weather. Root diseases and nematodes may cause calcium deficiencies. Overdoses of calcium may cause iron deficiencies Magnesium (Mg): Very mobile Magnesium is a key element in making chlorophyll and used in certain enzyme reactions. Magnesium also assists in phosphorous uptake and carbon fixation. Deficiency symptoms consist of yellowing between veins, which can lead to dead patches in the affected areas, giving a mottled appearance. Signs of magnesium deficiency appear first on the oldest leaves and progress systematically toward the youngest leaves. Overdoses of calcium and potassium can block magnesium uptake. Epsom salts, agricultural lime, and magnesium carbonate can all supply magnesium. Sulfur (S): Very mobile Used in amino acid and enzyme production, deficiency symptoms consist of a general yellowing of the leaves. This appears similar to a nitrogen deficiency, but starting in the upper leaves, not the lower leaves (as with a nitrogen deficiency). Cannabis can generally tolerate quite high concentrations of sulfur, and overdosing is uncommon. However, over-application can lock out molybdenum, and hinder beneficial microbial life. Sulfur is commonly paired with another nutrient. Potassium sulfate (0-0-50 18% S) and Epsom salts (Magnesium Sulfate) (13% S 10% Mg) both supplies more than one nutrient. I prefer Epsom salts as it supplies both sulfur and magnesium in approximately correct proportions. Potassium deficiency often shows as a yellowing/browning/dying of the leaf edges and/or curled over leaves, followed by yellowing spots in the interior of the leaf face. Discolored spots may appear on the undersides of leaves. Deficiency symptoms show first on lower leaves as flecking or mottling on the leaf margins. Prolonged deficiency results in cell death along the leaf margins and the plants can show signs of wilt. These symptoms first display in older leaves, and continue to work up through to the newer leaves if not corrected. Growth, root development, disease resistance and bud size are reduced. Silica additives like potassium silicate while not technically a necessary nutrient can be very beneficial in helping your plants build stronger cell walls which will help strengthen the stems which support your heavy buds. It will help your plants grow faster and improve the uptake of macro and micro nutrients. It can also improve your plants resistance to pests and diseases. MICRO NUTRIENTS The last six nutrients – iron, manganese, boron, zinc, copper and molybdenum – are only used in very small amounts (and most in very, very small amounts). Iron, manganese, and boron are used in small doses. They are needed on the order of a hundredth as much as the macronutrients. Commercial micronutrient fertilizers often contain at least these three: Iron (Fe): Low mobility Iron is used to facilitate chlorophyll production and enzyme reactions. Iron chelates are soluble and aid in keeping iron in solution available for uptake. Iron deficiency shows as upper leaf yellowing between the veins, which may progress to cell death of the affected leaves. New leaves come out bleached. Yellowing begins on the lower part of the leaflets. Iron deficiencies can look similar to a manganese deficiency. Overdoses of calcium, zinc, manganese, phosphorous and copper can lock up iron and cause a deficiency. Basic (pH above seven) conditions or over-watering can also lock out iron uptake. Manganese (Mn): Semi mobile Manganese is required for chlorophyll formation and enzyme reactions. Manganese deficiency consists of yellowing between green veins, similar to a magnesium deficiency but appearing first on the upper leaves, and more mosaic looking. Yellowing may turn brown as the leaf dies. Basic (pH above seven) environments can lock out manganese uptake. Toxicity appears as marginal leaf necrosis. Manganese may decrease the solubility of iron by oxidation, so an overdose of manganese may lead to iron deficiency. Boron (B): Low mobility Boron aids in the creation and stabilization of the cell walls in plant cells. It is required for root tip development and new growth. It can delay the onset of calcium deficiency, but is not a substitute for calcium. It tends to keep calcium soluble, and may assist in the absorption of nitrogen. Boron deficiency affects the growing and root tips first. Leaf tips curl under, yellow, and die; growth may be stunted and bushy. High pH may lock up boron. Glossy-looking leaves may be an indication of boron overdose. Even smaller amounts of zinc, copper and molybdenum are needed. They are used in quantities down to a thousandth as much as the macro nutrients. Organic matter or soil usually has sufficient quantities of micro nutrients to fulfill the needs of plants, but in a highly sterile hydroponic environment they may need to be added to the system. Only trace amounts of these are needed. For example, water running through house pipes has been known to pick up enough copper to meet the needs of Cannabis. Zinc (Zn): Semi mobile Zinc is used to activate enzymic reactions and indoleacetic acid. Young leaves show yellowing between the veins. Sometimes a zinc deficiency can lead to plants with shortened inter-nodes. Zinc deficiency may occur in cold, wet soils, or in basic pH conditions. Overdoses of zinc may cause copper and iron deficiencies. Knowing what nutrients, the plant needs is half the battle; knowing how much is the other half it’s also the more debated of the two. Reacting to deficiencies and overdoses is one way to get a feel for how much of which nutrient you should be adding to your solution. Another is to start with someone else’s best shot at it, and then try to improve upon it yourself. Growers must proceed with caution in order to avoid under or over feeding their plants based on particular strains and phenotype differences. You must have a basic understanding of how a healthy plant should look during each stage of its life. A healthy cannabis plant should be a nice even shade of green. The leaves and the leaf blades should be held out somewhat flat and straight not drooping down or folded up or cupping down. Light green/yellowing coloring can indicate nutrient deficiency issue. Dark green leaves are usually the result of excess nitrogen possibly excess iron and should be carefully watched looking for leaf tips clawing or yellowing/brown leaf tips indicating nutrient burn. Leaves with brown edges can be a sign of both nutrient excesses and deficiencies. Brown or yellow spots showing up on the leaves can be a sign of calcium and or magnesium deficiencies. It’s not unusually for the oldest lower fan leaves to fade and show deficiencies about half way through your grow. As long as the issue isn’t steadily progressing to the upper leaves it usually isn’t a sign of any major issue. Mixing your nutrients in the proper order is also important. Also shaking or completely mixing after each nutrient is added to your water will prevent nutrients from binding together becoming useless when it comes to absorption. First always shake your nutrient bottles well before using them. If using a silica additive this must be added first to your water it needs to be kept in an alkaline state to remain in solution. It tends to be very alkaline in ph. so don’t overdo it. Start with 1 ml per gallon. Next add your calcium/magnesium supplement if needed and mix well Next add your base nutrients they tend to be acidic and will balance out the alkaline effects of the silica. If using a one-part nutrient simply add and mix If using a two-part add part A first and mix well, then add the part B and mix again. Some growers may argue that you should add part B first then part A. If that was the case the manufacturers would tell you to do this on the bottle. If using a 3-part add Micro then Grow then Bloom mixing well between each part. Next add any bloom boosting additives. Next add any additional supplements Check and adjust ph. after mixing. Wait 15 to 30 minutes then recheck ph. again until it stabilizes. Use your nutrient solution as soon as possible do not store or use them for more than 24 hours after mixing. With auto flower cannabis try using a starting dose of 1/8 to 1/4 the recommended starting dose suggested by the nutrient manufacturer to achieve the ideal concentrations. You must use either the EC. or proper conversion scale that your TDS meter uses to calculate PPM. Adding beneficial microbes to your soil are an important part of the nitrogen cycle. Although the major constituent of the air we breathe is nitrogen, plants cannot take nitrogen directly from the air. Through the processes of nitrification and assimilation, plants can obtain an adequate amount of nitrogen in the form of nitrate. Nitrogen goes through various forms in the nitrogen cycle. Each of its many forms is necessary to maintain a balance in the ecosystem. For plants, nitrogen is the most in demand nutrient. The majority of the nitrogen in the soil exists as organic matter and is relatively immobile. When the organic matter breaks down, it releases ammonia. The ammonia in turn is converted into nitrate by microorganisms. Nitrate is a mobile form of nitrogen and is easily accessible by plants. Please see AUTO FLOWER CANNABIS FEEDING CHART in weekly photos above this is based on 70 to 75 harvest day. Use this chart as a starting point for creating your own personalized feeding chart based on your particular strains growth and feeding habits. WEEK 6 UPDATE Nice progress with the buds developing a bit of size/density and seeing some pistils starting to dry signaling the end is approaching. Smell is picking up becoming more noticeable even with my exhaust fan on. Reminiscent of ripe citrus with a slight floral undertone. The "Half Cropping" technique that was performed in the beginning of week 5 has healed over leaving a slight swelling at the point of trauma on the stem very pleased with the result so far. I removed a few more random fan leaves that were blocking light to the lower buds and will continue to perform this slowly over the next few weeks as needed. Increased my nutrients this week adding in some Canna PK 13/14 and Canna Boost to start giving them the extra phosphorus and potassium needed to start bulking up in week 7-8. Also I used 1/5 teaspoon of Epsom salt (Magnesium Sulfate) to help the buds develop and boost terpene production. Studies have shown that magnesium and sulfur is beneficial and aids plants that produce the terpene limonene. I feel safe doing this with the increase of potassium and calcium. Proper ideal proportions are 4 parts potassium to 2 parts calcium to 1 part magnesium in order to prevent one or more from blocking absorption of each other. Made my last application of Great White beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizae at 1/2 teaspoon per gallon water with 1 teaspoon Organic Blackstrap Molasses added to feed those little buggers. Even though I'm using chemical nutrients I feel that at least some microbes will survive to be beneficial until the end of the grow. Light intensity is the same as week 5 PPF/PAR meter readings range from 650 -750+ which is pushing it. Giving me a DLI range of 46.80 to 54.00 Moles Per Day Tent humidity average of 47% humidity with an average leaf temperature of 71.6 F giving me a LVPD of 1.15 kPa Since I dropped my humidity I needed to increase my exhaust fan speed to maintain a reasonable temperature which in turn lowered my Co2 to 800 ppm.