First Grow - DWC - Green Crack

I have never done DWC before, but I do use RO water for my feed water and since I grow under LED, I always add some Cal-Mag at the very least. I don't think you want to use plain RO for very long, since there's nothing in it for the plant. I would think a mild nutrient solution of 1-2ml/gal would also be a good thing after she develops her first set of true leaves.

It is hard to tell if you have any tops splitting off with the angle of that last photo but it looks like you may have fimmed the FIM. 😁 I think you may have cut a little high and not hit the main stem. I have tried to fim plants before but it was unpredictable for me. I just went back to the old school topping technique and I am more than happy with the results I get. Good luck with the rest of your grow!

I continue lst all the way through the flowering stretch. As long as you can spread her out to keep opening up the budsites to light then keep up the training. It will help your yield and quality in the end. And you want to keep her tied down through the entire grow. Just keep an eye on your tie downs periodically and readjust them so they don't grow into the branches as they expand. Looks like you are set up for a nice canopy. Just try to keep them even as she stretches and she will reward you in the end. Good luck!

Not silks but I'll lend my own insight anyway; it may well be that those you follow are harvesting later than breeder recommendations BUT it's likely not due to a low stress plant training method. LST generally does not apply any kind of stress to a plant whatsoever - hence the term "light". It does allow for more pronounced branching and growth tip exposure thus, resulting in the plant growing outwards moreso than upwards. Respecting harvest dates in relation to breeder recommendations. It serves the breeders purposes from a marketing perspective to suggest that their strains are ready for chop after X weeks of flowering - the "X" being the shortest amount of weeks they've experienced. That said, I've personally found that breeder suggested flowering weeks are generally understated by about 1-2 weeks on average. It's important to keep in mind that the plants environment and limiting factors such as light type, power, ventilation, indoor, outdoor etc. will play a huge role in determining how long a plant will take to flower. The breeder recommended flowering times are more MINIMUM guidelines rather than a specific time frame written in stone. You also have to be careful here because everyone will start the week count for flowering at different times. I start counting the moment I flip the lights to 12/12 whereas others will only start the flowering week count once they actually see pronounced pistils post-transition. It very much depends and ultimately, the only true judge of the right time to chop will be the grower. This is why I like to refer to picking the right harvest time as more of an art than a specific "time". Hope that answers your question. Cheers.👊

I always flush a few extra gallons a week before flower. Helps get rid of all the extra salt. I also check my ppm runoff every water. If my ppms get to high I'll add a little more water than usual. Every water should have some runoff.

Short answer: when the plant has fully stretched. The typical answer is ~3 weeks into flower. During this phase, the plant has put out several buds along the stretched-out shoots. Lollipopping involves removing these side-buds from the bottom up, trimming off 1/3 to 2/3 of the plant's bottom mass.