I will follow advice and switch back to 20/4 schedule. Night will start at 1pm from now on and end at 5pm
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First Spring Cold Grow
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2
VEG
LED/150W
LED
FLO
LED/80W
LED
Tent
Indoor
Room Type
LST
weeks 1, 5, 8
100%
Soil
Grow medium
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Item 1 of 3
A very cold saturday Caused me to temporarily switch to a 24 hour schedule. This is the temperature just 10 minutes after I turned the light on.
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4+ photos afterLogin
Grow Conditions
Week 1
Vegetation
20 hrs
Light Schedule
18
°C
°F
Day Air Temperature
9+ conditions after
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Grow Technique Usage
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Technique
This is my first grow ever. Got a grow box from a company that will not yet be named.
It has a 4 inch exhaust, carbon filter and 4 computer fans to wind train the plants.
I will be adding dust shrooms to this thing as well as an AC Infinity T4 to it in place of the loud motor.
I have a small apartment and this thing is way too loud for in-apartment use. So I'm banishing it to an alley behind my basement apartment.
I got it safely wired up with a heater beside it. Keeps it up to 20 degrees warmer than the surrounding air when the light is running. Naturally I have a cycle that the "day" corresponds with night time outside. So this will be interesting because for May, it's going to be really cold in the northeast.
I popped the seed in a paper towel until I could see the baby root. I decided to just put it directly in a baby cup of Happy Frog at first. Then I panicked because I put it upside down, spent 20 minutes the next day finding the seed and replanting. Then I transferred that cup in an 8 gallon fabric pot of Coast of Maine Stonington blend mixed with a bit of Organic Mechanic cactus soil.
This will be an organic indoor grow with limited exposure to cold temperatures not usually felt indoors and towards the end I will either keep it out there hot or bring it in, depending on how quiet this gets with upgrades.
Wish me luck!
(Sunday update)
After writing the above we had the 8 or so gallon fabric pot in the grow box essentially in a shed with a heater beside it while exhaust is going
As luck would have it we got down to 37 degrees in the last two days. I was worried with temps as pow as 52 in the box that germination would fail. I set the grow light to a 24 hour schedule as a result.
It looks like the seed has come out! The sprout still has the shell attached (likely due to the dry air conditions) but I will leave it alone and see how we do.
A weird thing is that I put the happy frog with the seed as a mound within the stonington blend, but the seed came out far away from where I originally put it.
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Grow Questions
mexycomebackstarted grow question 4 years ago
This seed has cracked out of the shell and been thrown in and out of soil. It has been experiencing 65 degree days and a 55 degree night. Will this hinder the seed from emerging or is it pretty tough to kill a seed? It's a Mephisto seed I tried to get the best genetics I could.
Solved
Setup. Seeds
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ijustdontgiveafanswered grow question 4 years ago
no, this shouldn't be a huge issue.. after all, if the plant was outside a 10 degree difference shouldn't kill it either.. i would still recommend getting the temperature up a bit.. some strains can deal with cold temperatures better than others, so it might also be depending on the strain
mexycomebackstarted grow question 4 years ago
The seed came out after two especially cold nights. It is an autoflower from mephisto. The shell is attached and I don't see any leaves yet. I have the light on 24/7. Is there any harm in leaving the light on 24/7 for a bit, when should I switch back to a 20/4 schedule?
Solved
Setup. Seedling
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Spyder7answered grow question 4 years ago
There's no consensus here with autos. They're grown where the light really does shine for 24 hours a day for several months a year - I've lived there, and you would have shade your windows at night or sleeping at midnight is like sleeping at high noon in terms of light.
Since these autos have those ruderalis genes that are native that far north baked in, they don't need *any* darkness at any point in the grow - though through experimentation, growing 18/6 or 20/4. starting at any point in the grow if you begin 24/0 as I do, growers have found that using 20/4 or 18/6 instead of 24/0 doesn't seem to impact grow time much, or yield at all, and since it doesn't, 18/6 or 20/4 are viable alternatives since you're consuming less electricity and generating less heat.
I ran my last grow 24/0 and only switched to 18/6 for the last couple weeks because heat was getting a bit too high with an early spring, and since I'm not venting it outside, I adopted an 18/6 to lower temps since I could time the dark period for the hot part of the day.
If you're having temps that are too low which 24/0 is solving, then the time to go back to 20/0 is after you solve your low temp issue. The plant is content to wait as the Ruderalis genes means its quite content with 24/0 if that's what it needs to keep the temp high enough.
This grow is 24/0 right now since I don't think seedlings need darkness and I just planted last night (after planting, I turn the light on and leave it on); but since some darkness *may benefit* them after they hit veg, I'm going to switch this grow to 18/6 after week 1. This is not something you have to do and 20/4 serves the same purpose. I'm doing it this grow because I think some darkness, once veg starts, helps (4 hours or 6 doesn't matter I don't think) and it helps manage heat which can get a little too warm, especially in late flower when the light is close and in summer.
mexycomebackstarted grow question 4 years ago
What's the best way to dry the bud to preserve as many terpenes as possible? What are the terps "enemies"? Is too much airflow a concern? Too high temps? How high is too high for the temperature?
Solved
Other. Harvest - Drying
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NobodysBudsanswered grow question 4 years ago
cool and moderate. maybe 68 to start and a bit cooler later in cure. <60% RH and you'll do fine at those temperatures. Direct airflow is a concern. A fan in the room circulating air is not and will be a benefit -- assuming you don't have dust flying around and stuff, lol.
too high? tougher question. some terp boil off as low as 80s F, if not mistaken? If you aren't going to control the climate, don't fret over things you have no power over. Do what you can to keep temps down. You already know it's a bit too warm in that context.
evaporation is actually happenign at all times. condesnation pressure vs vapor pressure.. constant fight to restore equilibrium of the moment. Ice evaporates in your freezer. So, just avoid 80+F for sure. Even upper 70's isn't so wise, but it'll still come out well in many cases.
mexycomebackstarted grow question 4 years ago
Does it makes sense to have a small 300W COB LED pointed at the white flat painted wall for supplemental lighting?
If I point the light directly at the plants I would surely burn them but have no space to move back.
Solved
Setup. Lighting
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deFharoanswered grow question 4 years ago
Yo uso esos cobs pequeños para dar luz lateral directa a las plantas, algunos los acerco hasta 10cm y todo va bien.
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mexycomebackcommentedweek 14 years ago
Experimentgreencommentedweek 14 years ago
Hey friend, I know it's been chilly lately, do you have a heating pad? You could put that under the pot and at least it would hopefully keep the soil a little warmer...that's usually how my outdoor survives cold time because the ground is warmer than the air.
Are you using the exhaust fan right now? Or did you turn that off? Cause that'll definitely cool things down too...
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mexycomebackcommented4 years ago
@Experimentgreen, I was thinking of those, you think it would cause a difference to a 8 gallon pot of soil? If so I will get one.
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mexycomebackcommentedweek 14 years ago
I will follow advice and switch back to 20/4 schedule. Night will start at 1pm from now on and end at 5pm
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mexycomebackcommentedweek 14 years ago
I had the seed on a 40 hour light streak and saw no differences in growth. Moving back to a 20 hour schedule with 4 hours of lights off made some dramatic changes to the seedling, which now has 4 leaves visible. Right before the light turned back on I drenched the 8 gallon pot with dechlorinated tap water innoculated with mykos and azos (however not drenched enough that it came out the bottom of the pot). The theory is I want the roots to not stop growing until they reach the edges of this pot, I hear dry conditions can do that. I will wait 24 hours at least to water again.
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