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Inaugural Grow: Auto Northern Lights
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1Indoor
Room Type
LST
weeks 2-4
Defoliation
weeks 6
100%
Soil
Grow medium
18.93 l
Pot Size
Photos & Videos
Grow Setup (Day 16): I reran the water lines to clean up the grow space. Much easier to manage now.
Plant 1 (Day 16): Post LST
Plant 1 (Day 16): side-ish angle of post LST
Grow Setup (Day 16): I reran the water lines to clean up the grow space. Much easier to manage now.
Plant 1 (Day 16): Post LST
Grow Conditions
Week 3
Vegetation
15.24
cm
inch
Height
18 hrs
Light Schedule
11+ conditions after
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Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
2+ nutrients after
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Grow Technique Usage
LST
Technique
OCTOBER 12 (DAY 16): The plants seem to be doing well after their first feeding. I plan to alternate feeding and plain watering every 3-4 days, assuming the plants don’t show any signs of nute burn. That said, I think I may have screwed up my first feeding. I forgot to test and adjust the feeding solution’s ph prior to feeding, which may explain why my last TDS reading was so high (showing 2250 ppm two days after feeding).
The plants are all getting nice and big. Viserion (#1) was the strongest out the gate, so I was going to leave it alone. But #2 has overtaken it, so I have decided to make #2 the comparison plant that will not receive any training. Based on some feedback from my first grow question, I let the plants go until their first set of true leaves were fully fanned out before beginning LST. Plants #1 & #3 have now begun LST, along with stem support. So far so good.
OCTOBER 15 (DAY 19): Everyone looks good. I gave a second feeding today, following the FF feeding schedule at half-strength. This time I tested the nute solution ph and adjusted it up to 6.5. I have a feeling they weren’t getting the most out of the last feed, as I’m guessing the ph was about 4.5. Hopefully there will be no nute burn (a few leaves got wet during the watering, despite my best efforts.
Unless the plants tell me to do otherwise, I am going to continue a twice/week watering schedule, adding nutes once a week.
OCTOBER 17 (DAY 21): Week 3 has ended with a bang. Plants 2 and 3 are sporting pistils, so I guess we are now in pre-flower. Viserion (no. 1) is taking its sweet time, and I’m not seeing any pistils yet. Isn’t it weird how the ones that go crazy big out of the gate aren’t always the strongest or fastest in the long run? I can’t wait to see what week 4 brings!
TL;DR:
Started feeding the plants using FF soil schedule at half strength, 1x/wk. Figured out using distilled water with nutes requires adjusting the PH. Leaving one plant alone and LSTing the other two. Almost ready to flower, maybe?
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1Similar Diaries
Grow Questions
CRIM_mirstarted grow question 4 years ago
Question about LST autos (see photos). I read LST should start early with autos, but I am worried I might be starting too soon. I started with plant 3, but it just flopped right over (I didn't have to pull it), so I stopped. Is this ok, or should I wait? The others?
Solved
Techniques. LST
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FreshCoastOrganicsanswered grow question 4 years ago
I think you may have started a little early. I wait until there are about 3+ nodes usually when she sprouts her first true leaves.
I’d take a little pressure off and start maybe a week or so later. You really want her roots to anchor down a bit more! I’d also support the base of the stem before you start pulling the top down as well!
I hope this helps!
CRIM_mirstarted grow question 4 years ago
My grow light is suspended (offset from plants) about 10” from the canapy of my two LST’ed plants but only about 6” from my control plant (no LST). Everyone seems happy, and I am not noticing any burns or lack of growth (unless too close can stunt?). Should I rethink the setup?
Solved
Setup. Lighting
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russrahlanswered grow question 4 years ago
I agree with the previous comment. You really don’t want to let one go and lst the others, you will have problems with it later on in flowering. The one you let go could go 2-3 times higher then your lst canopy will be. The other option if you really wanna keep your Control plant is to buy another led light and move your lst plants to one sine of the tent together under one light and use the second light over your control plant.
CRIM_mirstarted grow question 4 years ago
Veg stage w/ preflowers or flower? The top node looks different from prior growth, but no white pistils. How should I handle nutes? My FF feeding schedule is based on photoperiods, so which week of flower schedule should I use?
Sorry for million ??, total n00b here. THX!
Solved
Plant. Other
Feeding. Schedule
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Shagrathanswered grow question 4 years ago
Hi there!
She's starting flower but you can keep using veg nutes and gradually lower the nitrogen in the next 2-3 weeks. The first weeks of flower is the stretch phase and they need lots of nitrogen in that time so it's good to slowly change to full flowering nutes
CRIM_mirstarted grow question 4 years ago
I have been feeding my plants 1/2 strength FF once weekly since week 3. The plants seem to be doing well. One has twisted leaves but seems healthy. But the plants are displaying random spots of yellowing. Is this normal or indicative of some kind of nute issue?
Solved
Leaves. Color - Mottling
Leaves. Other
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JoseTodoLocoanswered grow question 4 years ago
You had the TDS at 2250ppm to me it's too high, sometimes those spots are related to drops of water that acts as a magnifier, Are you having those spots on a few lower leaves?. Cheers
CRIM_mirstarted grow question 4 years ago
2 plants have browning on lower leaves where light hits (calcium def?), and now one has drooping leaves. All plants fed/watered same, except healthier plant (on right) did not get Bud Candy. Strong growth. Nute TDS high (~2250) but following 1/2 str. FF schedule. Help plz!
Solved
Leaves. Curl down
Leaves. Color - Mottling
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Spideranswered grow question 4 years ago
Tds too much high, less nuts and more water.
See your PH.
Happy growth!
CRIM_mirstarted grow question 4 years ago
I committed a n00b mistake & got the nutes all outa whack during bloom. Now the fan leaves are yellowing and brittle. The stigmas are also turning orange, but I don’t see ANY amber trichs — maybe just burned? I fed again, but don’t know how to tell when to flush for harvest. THX!
Solved
Buds. Other
Feeding. Other
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Organomananswered grow question 4 years ago
It is pretty normal for the leaves at late flowering to go yellow, so nothing really to worry about. The close up picture looks like that plant is close to harvest, don't worry about "amber trichome percentages" some plants will never have amber trichomes and some plants will have amber trichomes very early on, depending entirely on genetics. I am a bit worried about the first and third pictures, there seems, what looks like to me, a fungal problem starting to raise its ugly head, with the black blotches being the tell tale sign. I would be stopping all nutrients, letting things dry out a bit and only giving water for the next week or so and be considering harvest soon rather than later. You don't want all your hard work and big chunky blooms going mouldy. Perhaps if you haven't fed them for a few days, harvest could be brought forward a few days. Remember, you will never stop learning when growing this wonderful plant and as a self described "newbie", should be proud of your results. Think how much you learned this time and how you can apply that knowledge into your next grow. I have been at it for 35+ years and am still learning new things every season. Congratulations on your adventure into the wonderful world of gardening for pleasure! Hope this helps... Organoman.
CRIM_mirstarted grow question 4 years ago
Plant 1 has healthiest foliage but smallest buds.
Plant 2 seems farthest along but stalling out.
Plants 1 & 3 fattening. Just delayed?
Seeing amber trichs here n there, but lots of clears/milky all over.
Flush plant 2 for a week or two and harvest but let 1 & 3 go longer?
THX!
Solved
Buds. Other
Plant. Other
Techniques. LST
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NobodysBudsanswered grow question 4 years ago
Trichomes look similar, eh?
Resources are spread out as opposed to a more focused used on the untrained plant. You get similar yields. I'd wager the strongest correlation as far as plant structure is the root system. Obviously giving max DLI relative to ambient environment being the single biggest factor for larger yields.
#1 has more colas than #2, right? So, it's colas are a bit smaller.
Sometimes training can stall a plant. If you didn't notice a slowdown, i'd wait for the dry weight before assuming anythign about yield. it can be deceiving still on the plant.
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Ferenccommentedweek 34 years ago
CRIM_mircommented4 years ago
@Ferenc,
Thanks so much! It’s such an adventure!
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richcityfarmscommentedweek 54 years ago
I think your issue is cold temps, i had same issue and resolved by making sure my temps were not below 20, also ease the nutes and make sure your ph is somewhere between 6.0-6.5 hope that helps!
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DoDrugs420commentedweek 93 years ago
You rock that Northern Lights Autoflower i love it.
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heizencommentedweek 94 years ago
Nice grow mate, plants are looking good, keep it up, imma follow this one upclose.
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