Quick one/Easy Bud - First grow

Way too young to do anything yet. Wait until the third pair of leaves come then you can start a soft bend or topping

You need 400 ppm 0.8 ec right from the start of their lives. 5.8 ph, use vinegar until you receive your ph down. Increase feed 100 ppm 0.2 ec every week after you see new growth start. Cheers

I do a ton of LST.... I try to get at it as soon as the first stock is about an inch. I have had great success at getting then when they are small, but they are really fragile. slow and easy will get it done. Check out some of the photos in my diaries Good Luck and GREAT job!

due to laws of conservation of mass and energy (light has both aspects), distance does not gain or reduce umol/s that your light produces. it does get more spread out. That's the inverse square law. if working at 30cm, 1/2 that distance would be 4x more intense light, but in a smaller area of coverage. whether this is an autoflower or a photoperiod will matter too. Hours of light per day is part of the equation. 18 hours is 50% longer, needs 33% less light. 12 hours is 33% fewer and need 50% more light over that 12 hours. if you do 20 or 24, you cna do the math. i'm going to work with "12 hours" you want a minimum of 500 PPFD. That's 500 umol/s per m^2. Again, this is proporitonal. 1/2 m^2 only need 250 umol/s as minimum. So, this is relative to area as well as time. without added CO2, or simply ambient atmospheric CO2, ~800-900 PPFD is your ceiling for 12 hours. A DLI chart can help here. ~40DLI is about as high as you want to go. Technically 43.something, but that requires lab precision in all other relevant factors. a dli chart will verify all the things i just said for the "12 hour" row. You can work backward from the same PPFD values relative to how many hours per day you run your lights (apples to vegetative phase too). What cuases concern is their specifications... this is a giant red flag of incompetence and a lack of understanding. If it is 564 umol/s, i wouldn't use it to flower(12 hours) any area larger than 1m^2. How high? let plants tell you. They wilt and otherwise try to avoid light if it is too much... if you continue to stress them in that way, they will form pale spots that quickly encompass entire leaves near top. This damage cannot be healed if it goes too far. You'd know it when you see it, just preparing you. So, let plant dictate height.. maywant to take note of height per phase too... Seedlings quicly want intense light, but they can handle a bit more as the mature. I'd set height based on coverage, if PPFD stays above minimum i spoke of above. A cheap lux meter can guage releative intensity -- you don't want a huge % drop-off from center to the sides, if you can avoid it. Closer is better than furhter away. Although there is not loss or gain of energy and mass, it can be absorbed and otherwise miss the plant. You want to limit how much bounces off the walls while still providing an even blanket of intensity -- as best you can. Simple as that,eh?

Hi there, She will start showing pre flowers when the time comes.Be patient and check for those pre flower.For defoliation, I would only do if there is a good reason.Like do some defoliation to lower down tent humidity,to make a good air flow if too bushy(Yours isn’t that bushy and still young to do it.You can still tucking in your leaves).Defoliate some leaves If they are damaged or shaded below the canopy.May be some lollipopping if there are too many popcorn buds underneath.Other than those, I wouldn’t do for an autoflower.Recommend to defoliate at the start of flowering circle and again at 3rd week of flower or at the end of stretching period.At that time, you will know which one to remove and which one to leave.Happy growing... ✌️

Still got a while to go yet, probably 7-10 weeks depending on your grow set up and the plant. Rather than worrying about flushing, just hold back all fertilizers for the last 10 days or so before you think your plant is ready for harvest. Also, try leaving all healthy leaves on your plant. They are making the energy your plant needs to grow its biggest flowers. Less healthy leaves = less energy made = smaller flowers/plants. The only leaves that need to be removed are ones that have gone yellow, because by this time they have served their purpose. When you cut off healthy green leaves, your plants first "instinct" is to grow new leaves to get back to being able to make energy. The energy the plant uses to replace the healthy green leaf that was cut off requires much energy, energy that it could be better utilised to grow overall, had the healthy green leaf not been cut off in the first place! That is, energy to grow overall, or energy to re-grow another healthy green leaf to replace the healthy green leaf that was cut off. Same when your plant is flowering, those big leaves are "solar panels" providing your plant with energy to grow her biggest flowers. Removing healthy leaves means less energy produced means smaller flowers. Good luck and happy growing! Hope this helps .... Organoman. 😎

Hey she looks good, but you won’t be harvesting before Xmas. Sorry. I would say you are pretty close to that 5/6 weeks out before harvest time. You will have a great harvest in the new year. Happy growing

I would add but at lower dose autos take less

I'd say u got a week plus left. Hard to tell without seeing the trichomes. Look into a jewelers loop to be able to inspect them. It's the easiest way to tell. 🤘😤

honestly bud I would say let it go 2 more weeks possibly 6 weeks seems short for a flower cycle. I have had non autos go 12 weeks in flower. Keep a close eye on her and if you can wait till you can see 10% amber trichomes at least yours look almost all cloudy. if it helps you can check out some of my grows purple bliss went 8 weeks, The LSD went 9 weeks, and my Zkittles OG Auto last of the OG went 12 weeks Hope this helps: happy growing and as always keep your stick on the ice