By continuing to use the website or clicking Accept you consent to our cookies and personal data policy and confirm that you are at least 18 year old. For details please see Privacy Policy and Terms
3 out of 3 germinated.
3 - 23watt CFL's
Red Solo Cups with holes in bottom
Cut in half water bottles for humid chamber for seedling.
Fox Farms Ocean Forest Soil
Watering:
RO Water
1/4 Recommended Dosage Seaweed Extract
Ph - 6.5 ppm 100
Transplanted from red solo cup to 2 gallon pot mid week. Trying to build solid roots that are slightly bound. Intention is to train the roots horizontally and vertically in their final 7 Gallon cloth pots.
I have reduced my plants from 3 to 2 plants. I feel 2 plants work better for a Scrog in a 2x4 tent.
I am watering (200ppm, 6.7ph) with a 2ml solution of Seaweed Extract roughly 2.5 times per week. I am also applying it as a foliage spray using a pesticide sprayer.(brand new, so clean)
Runoff water PPM 750(due to FF Ocean Soil) Ph 5.8.
Same day of transplant I put my plants under my Mars Hydro Tsl2000 on full power 40 inches from the plant.
Following day: 25 inches
Following day: 16 inches (best recommend distance by cocoforcannabis.com) helpful site for tested lights.
Currently both plants have 4 nodes. I intend to top above the 2nd node once 5 nodes appear. I intend to scrog in an X pattern with the 4 main colas that should develop.
I am currently growing Blue Ice OG from seedsman.
Seedsman advertises that this strain can develop shades of dark blue and purple colors if it is exposed to nights below 12°C(54°F).
My question is, when during the grow cycle would you do this?
Let temps drop near end of flower so as not to impact yield much. You shouldn't need to drop into 50s. low to mid 60F will likely have the effect too.
It doesn't take much time. trial and error needed, but i bet you see a color change after 1-2 nights.. at least hints. do it as long as you feel necessary. This likely impacts photosynthesise... it's not a wise thing to do, imho. cold nights are not optimal for plant biology, which is tied to why colors change.. .again, not optimal to cause this to happen.
So, i'd start later in flower... and rest assured it won't take more than a week or two to get a good autumn look going.
Earlier this week I topped my 5 node plant right above the 2nd node. This has allowed 4 main colas to develop.
A few days later I introduced more first but of nutes. My PPM on the runoff was still messing 750ppm with a 200ppm seaweed water. I didnt need to add nutes this early yet but wanted to give my soil some organic matter with the alfalfa tea. I find giving my soil organic matter really brings on the veg grow and I see a good spike in growth.
Right now between my 2 Blue Ice OG(BIO), 1 plant is 5.5" tall and the other 4.5"
I've seen a few bright orangish and yellowish spots from on my lowest cotyledons leaves and the 1st set of true leaves. I'm assuming I introduced my plants to nutrients too early with my seaweed extract watering in its 1st to 2nd week of growth.
Earlier this week I began transplant from 1 gallon pot to 7 gallon pots, the root bound on the 1 gallon looked very slight and was what I was looking for.(attempting solid root development that is full throughout the pots) Wish I wouldve remembered to snag a picture, I'll get one next diary.
Ppm and ph on the runoff came in high a few days after the transplant. Again I suppose it was due to the soil having it's own amenities from the transplant. So I flushed with low ppm water 2 gallons each.
11/22: I fed today with only PH'd 6.4 (40 PPM) RO water. I was still getting PPM up to 1500 on run off, ph 5.5 slightly more acidic than id like. most likely correlates with the nutes and high ppm.
I ended up putting 4 gallons for a flush for each plant. Bringing the PPM down to high 700s on runoff and ph to 5.9 runoff.
https://growace.com/blog/ph-and-ppm-knowing-what-your-plants-are-eating-and-how-much-they-can-handle/
Very helpful site for understanding PPM and how it reflects into feeding. The comment thread also has a lot of good knowledge too.
First I'd like to note that I have limited space in my tent, it is 6 feet tall, my light apparatus has hang loss of 20 inches.
Because of this I am trying a scrog net with a HST a few days into flowering in order to slow down growth and develop within the scrog net all while keeping the canopy low.
I went into flowering earlier this week soon after fixing my nute lockout issue from the previous weeks diary. The following day after the 12/12 switch I lollipopped and removed all cola growth under the canopy, onlu sugar leaves remain.
Today I fed a light mix of 250 ppm mixture of base nute and vitamins, the run off PPM on the tall plant at 750 ppm, the runt had nearly 500 ppm runoff. I wanted to verify nute lockout was over and plants are taking up nutes once again. Ph in was 6.6 on all feeding.
After feeding today I began my HST and supercropped my 2 top colas into the scrog. 1 top got cracked so I patched with electrical tape. Pictures included.
Next watering I will be upping my feeding ppm to 700 to 800 ppm.
I feel I'm rushed and forsee the fight against height as inevitable, but we shall see. Hoping to work the scrog into the 2-3 weeks of flowering.
This week has gone very smooth. I continue to scrog the plant after the HST in the first week of flowering. The plant has healed nicely and the stretch growth has just begun.
My feedings have been a gallon each time with 600ish PPM. Run off from todays feeding was a little high at 1000. Next feeding will be low at 450ish.
I have some doubts that the plant will fill the entire net during the 3rd week of flowering but the canopy is looking very even across the board.
In hindsight I think doing the HST and early scrog during veg and then starting the flowering a week after would of been lead to more spread out canopy and fully utilized my space.
This week went pretty smooth, the tds meter was still reading a semi active soil so I did some ph'd water with no additives earlier in the week and then the next feeding did a full nutrient line up and a little bit of alfalfa meal tea and black strap molasses.
Earlier in this week I stopped scrogging entirely and just let the flowering commence with no more stress. The plant has almost stopped growing entirely and has reached about 26'' at the tops.
I identified my plant was having phosphorus deficiencies and was craving nutrients and vitamins so I upped my ppm feed to 850ppm, next watering will be over 1000ppm.
Bud sites are stacking, in retrospect I can see I should HST earlier before flowering. Next grow will be lst no topping or hst
I have done both, if your doing a photo period strain then hands down topping and LST wins. But I have also done autos and photo periods without topping and training them under a short screen and I’ve also grown them out naturally then pushed them down and out to fill a screen as well, lots of options. Lol They all work, but if your not doing autos then a well timed topping or 2 and LST then use a Scrog screen is the way to go. Autos are hit and miss when topping and only should be done when you know the strain can take it and you are experienced enough to pull it off. Hope this helps, Cheers! 💨
Very smooth sailing. Earlier in the week I caught my lower leaves turning yellow quickly so I have gradually been upping my feeds to 1100 and no longer alternate any plain PH'd water.
Latest feed had a runoff between 1700 to 2000. Next feed I will be scaling back to 800 because my PPM runoff is higher than I like.
Definitely in the ripening phase. Day by day new pistols are swelling and hairs are turning amber.
End of last week I fed around 1300 ppm (6.9ph) getting a run off at 1900 ppm (6.5ph), I'm seeing the spike due to the great white mycorrhizae bringing my roots some fungi/microbial life. However now that I'm entering final 2-3 weeks I want to start slowly scaling down the nutrients.
My watering tonight I fed at 800ppm(6.8ph) and my run off is looking nearly 1100ppm(6.6ph).
Over the next week I will feed again at 800ppm and see how my plant responds.
I am starting to see pink edges and blue spots forming. I decided to start closing the door to my space cutting it off from heating, this has been giving me a 60 degree night time space and 75 degree daytime. I'm not seeing any moisture build up or too high of humidity spikes so all good.
My goal is to slowly introduce colder temps so when I drop the space to 50 degree night time temps its not shocked. Blue ice OG is noted by seedsman for showing purple and blues if the night time temperatures swing below 54 degrees Fahrenheit.(12 degrees Celsius)
Been another smooth week, my plant is ripening day by day. I have started to introduce colder temps starting during a day cycle to lower the tent down nearly 2 degrees day and night. I am seeing an increase in color change. Fan leave side tips getting pink/purple hues, along with top side of fan leaves turning blue.
Day temps 73-75° Farenheit
Night temps 58-60° Farenheit
I am currently feeding around 650 ppm(6.9ph), my run off is around 750ppm(6.6ph).
I intend next feed to be around 400ppm and eventually near 100ppm for following up in final weeks of flowering.
Easy week, lowered my PPM feeds to 350ish (6.9ph), runoff is slightly higher at 390(6.6ph)
I have decreased the temperature to the space a few more degrees, night time temperatures as low as 56 degrees but generally around 57-58 degrees farenheit.
The plant is starting to show alot of signs for the final weeks of flowering. Sugar leaves yellowing at bottom foliage, the foliage exposed to the light is turning blueish, purplish, blackish sugar leaves.
Only 1 plant is showing the color changes, I assume the other plant is a phenotype with different percentages.
So I'm growing 2 of the same strain, Blue Ice OG. This strain changes colors if you lower the night temps to under 54° Fahrenheit. However, only 1 plant is changing colors. I assume it is possible there is a different phenotype that is showing itself that isnt affected.
Thoughts?
Correct. The strain may have a tendency to do so, but unless it is a trait that has been "fixed" by genetic selection, not all plants will express the colour change. Anyway, colour change does not have any affect on potency or yields and is just a visual piece of "eye candy". You could try and lower the temps even further to try and induce the plant to do so as well, but as they are close to harvest, time is probably against you. Plants that change colour at maturity usually have a chance of doing so of somewhere in the range of between 60% and 80%, and, unless as stated earlier, the trait has been "fixed" through genetic selection and stabilised through many generations of breeding, getting a plant to do it without being genetically "fixed" can be a bit "hit or miss".
Hope this helps,.... Organoman.
Just waiting for pistols to swell and a 50/50 split on amber to cloudy trichomes. I'm not falling for the fan leave trichomes which show some 50/50 split but not the calyxs. They're still clouding up, very few ambers found.
My feedings have been low PPM in attempt for the plant to start cannibalizing itself for finishing swell and a smoother taste and smoke. The left plant that is showing the purples and blues is right on schedule where the right one seems to be behind a few days.
Overall they're all looking great, getting close to harvest. I suspect 1 to 2 more weeks but we shall see what the plant tells me.
Soo close that I can almost smoke it. Both the girls are looking heavenly.
The right girl is swelling faster than the left and all the calyx's are looking fat as fuck. About 95% Orange Hairs. The trichomes are also further along showing my about a 15-20% Amber to Cloudy. A few more days and this will be ready to chop.
The left girl is a little behind her sister. Calyx's have some more swell to go. Trichomes have 0-5% Amber on the buds. Only 60% orange hairs.
This past week has been a ph RO water feed. Bringing down my PPM. PPM runoff beginning of the week was mid 700s. Latest feeding I'm down to 350s. Ph runoff has maintained the same 6.5ph almost this entire flowering cycle. I maintain water pH 6.5 to 7.0, I vary slightly to promote different intake of nutrients.
Started a 6/18 light cycle on 2/1, going to harvest on 2/3.
The light cycle change is intended to simulate fall and stimulate the trichome and terpene production.
Blue Ice OG was an easy plant to grow. I do find the genetics to be unpredictable, 1 plant changed colors as advertised when introduced to lower temps. I've also had issues with seeds forming in buds.
Granted this could be due to the HST done at the beginning of flowering but a friend of mine who grew my third seed has a similar amount of seeds and he did LST only grow.
Because of these oddities and lack of uniformity I took off 2 stars.
The taste of the bud itself is delicous. Both plants have a similar berry taste with hints of a lemony zestiness. The effects are very relaxing and stress free. I let my trichomes mature for a long time with lots of amber. The effects way heavy on the eyes and behind the eyes.
Train
