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Pensavo di mettere due. Mars hydro sp 3000 che ne pensate potrebbero andare bene?

Not all 301b or 301h diodes are the Same.. Product Binning is very common and a 301 binned at Cri 70 will be substantially cheaper then a 301 binned at Cri 90. "LED binning As LED production is a complex process, it is impossible to make LEDs that are all identical. To guarantee identical LEDs in a given run, LED manufacturers sort their output by light intensity and colour. This is called “binning”. However, the manufacturer’s goal is to sell all the LEDs. Manufacturers therefore offer three levels of sorting, in steps from 2 to 7. And prices are of course not the same! To guarantee consistency across its production and the quality of lighting effects, LEC uses the narrowest sorting step which is 2. It is the only way to guarantee lighting uniformity. The bin chosen is of course on the black body curve. "

strongy recommend a bar-style fixture. QBs are good too. Bars have more even blanket of light. since light only spreads out in 1 direction well (end of bars does not project out far), it should be nearly the same width as your growing area. As you tend to use these fixtures closer to the canopy, even on the 'other' ends it doesn't spread out like a COB LED or even a QB... but, it also won't have a hotspot underneath a mass of diodes or a single point of light. Other key features of ANY good LED at moment -- Samsung LM301 diodes... B or H doesn't matter regardless of what uninformed people say. This'll be ~95% of your diodes and is the most efficient white, full spectrum diode on the market. 660nm red didoes -- 4-5% is enough. These will reduce efficiency of your light... possibly longevity too, so look into the specs of anything listed. is it similar to the LM301's? The more efficient 660nm diode out at moment is the cree xp-g3 photoboost red. make sure driver is at least a common brand, like meanwell. Not sure of warranty from an OEM, but when you buy them individually they have a 7 year warranty, and these diodes, unlike most others, will actually last that long at or above 80% intensity. How hard is it all driven? just as importnat as the parts used. This is simple math... Divide Watts by number of diodes... the result should be near or below 0.4 watts per diode. This means they are driven at roughly half power at the diode (NOT DRIVER, driver is most efficient at full power). These samsun diodes driven at roughly half power will reach those advertised "60,000" hours of use before 80% intense. hours of use advertised -- one of the easy ways they will lie on spec sheets. They may drive them too hard, at which point you can throw out the spec sheet 60k horus of use, as it is based in part on how hard you drive them. Efficiency will also drop when driven harder. This means more electricity to provide same # of photons. It will cost you more over time if they are driven too hard. Other thing to note -- Samsung gives a legit specification related to 80% intensity of diode. Do not assume all manufactures have the same integrity. If not noted, it might mean 60k hours until 50% intensity, and a light is trash long before it gets half as bright. so, those "hours of use" typically have a %-intensity associated with it, or it is just meaningless nonsense to trick people. It's good to get a bit more than you need. As your LED dim over ~7 years, you can slowly increase power to offset that loss == same exact coverage and intensity for 7+ years in many cases. To do this, you need roughly ~25% extra to start. (80% * 1.25 = 100%)

I've tested quite a few lights.. And Quantum Boards are very comparable to Cobs.. Driving current and diode lay outs is huge... Iv'e seen data from a 380 watt led that was on par or better then a 400 watt quantum board. Your Optic 1 Xl are good lights and a 400 watt quantum has "higher" umol at the center.. but a lot of the extra light is unusable because you will have to raise the light to keep the center from being the "hot spot".