Beginners probs

Usually around the 10-15 day mark is when you wanna start nutes. I always recommend hydroguard for a root benny, but pretty much any beneficial bacteria will work. The idea is to create a beneficial ecosystem that will out-compete any bad bacteria that tries to gain a foothold. I love my hydro system, my most recent diary has a full equipment list on the germ week. Definitely invest in an EC meter!

Hey wanted to weight in on this. Hydro or soil is your choice. Hydro is less forgiving unless you do a coco grow. Coco can provide great results and still have hydro benefits of growth and yield. Just have cal mag and a ph pen on hand. First nutrition should be add about day 10 to 14 from sprout. Then in super light amounts. I do like 4 drops to a 2liters of each base nutrition of my blue planet elite base nutrition. Feeding should be done by plant size not a chart. Charts are always way too much. Light schedule should be 20/4 or 18/6. I do 20/4. If autos lst training will be important. Better yet, if you select my answer I will happily walk you through a coco grow. My green crack plant is coco, perlite, and grow stone. Perlite and growstone are for aeration. Your vegging npk should be in ratio of 3-1-2. In flowering npk should shift to 1-2-3. Potassium and phosphorus will give you good smoke in flowering. So yeah hit select and send me a direct messages and I will happily assist you. If not good luck and 🤞 for the best

Aussie hey?? G'day mate, Macadamias are awesome! Seriously though........... Firstly - PLEASE Please adjust your timer to 18/6, - 24 hours of light is totally unnatural and unhealthy. Nothing on planet earth can function properly without sleep, cannabis plants included, you will just eff them with continuous light! 18/6 is optimum! If new to growing, stick with soil, hydro is very complicated. Learn how plants grow first, then try new methods, such as hydro, down the track. We have excellent products from "Flair Form" and "Ozi Magic" for use on soil, (both brands are highly recommended), and available in Oz from overseas, either B.A.C. or Canna make excellent products for use with soil, especially the Bio-Canna range, just 2 bottles, one for grow and one for bloom. Both these brands have an organic/vegan range too, and I can recommend them highly. The B.A.C organic range is also one bottle for each phase, grow or bloom. Both these brands/products are complete nutrients with nothing else to buy or mix, unlike some products, where you have to mix part a with part b and then with part c, making them super simple to use and great for newbies and experienced people alike. They are also highly concentrated, making them economical in the long run as you don't need to use much, meaning they will last many, many plants or multiple grows. For premium results, you can add a p/k booster in flowering and some cal/mag (Flair Form CMX is excellent) and you are all covered. Forget what they say on here, you don't need a humidifier, it is just a waste of electricity and not needed, cannabis is not a rain forest plant. Also, do not add more than 5% perlite/vermiculite, this is heaps and it is only needed in greater amounts for drainage in poor soils. Since you are growing autos, adding about 10-15% coir into your soil mix will help with root development. Also, I would advise not to ever remove any green leaves, your plant needs every single green leaf it has, to make the energy it needs to grow its biggest and fastest. Try only removing yellow leaves, for by the time they are yellow, they have served their purpose. For further excellent development in soil, try adding "Mykos" from Xtreme gardening, it is a beneficial fungus for roots and really works - really, really well, making nutrient uptake by your plant much more effective and efficient, cutting down on the fertilisers required. Otherwise a dose of Seasol once every 3 weeks or so will benefit your plants and your plants roots, well. Transplant when your seedlings have 3-4 nodes (branches really). Feeding should commence a while down the track, if using decent soil for the seedlings, they shouldn't need feeding before transplanting and after transplanting into new pots, again with decent soil, they should not need feeding for about 3 weeks. Start with half strength, and see how your plants react, the last thing you want to do is over feed or burn them with full strength nutrients if your soil still has plenty of goodness. Now that I realise you are growing the seedlings in coir, you could start feeding now, beginning with quarter strength of your chosen nutrient. Use a routine of feed/water/water/feed/water/water/feed to avoid over feeding. Keep this up until transplanting into the bigger pots, once they have 3-4 nodes. Your seedlings seem quite stretched, try lowering your light to about half the height it is now, you will not burn them with a 20 watt light. When transplanting, you can bury them deeper, up to the cotyledons (small, first, rounded seed "leaves"), this will help with stability and over time, roots will sprout from the buried section of stem. Buying "Premium" potting soil will benefit you and your plants greatly, you can't grow great plants in cheap rubbish soil mixes. Since your plant is relying on the soil for it to grow her best flowers, skimping on cheap soil is foolish. You will only get out what you put in! Adding some worm castings to your soil mix will also be really appreciated by your plants. Also blood and bone meal (great source of calcium) and volcanic rock dust too - it is loaded with trace elements, silica and magnesium, and totally natural, will also benefit your plants greatly. Having your soil pH anywhere between 6.5 and 7.3 will be totally fine and will not affect your plants if it is not an exact number like 6.8 or 7.0. The dreaded bogeyman of "nutrient lock out" doesn't truly happen until the pH is under 5.5 or above 7.5, so it is not as super critical with soil as some make it out to be. The whole idea about growing should be about fun, not an exercise in having every single little detail meeting some sort of utopian ideal of perfection. We all make mistakes and we all learn from them. Even after 35+ years of growing, I still make mistakes (sometimes!), and I do learn something each and every time I do grow. If it were easy, it would be boring. Experimentation is part of growing and also the most educational aspect, usually in what not to do! However, there are also many discoveries waiting to be found, and it can be as easy and as simple as the trial use of soil mycorrhizae/fungus (Mykos) that I experimented with recently, and now regard/include it as a vital part of my growing method, so impressed was I with the results. I can also recommend reading the "grow guides" on the Mandala Seeds website, they have a far more comprehensive answer to your questions, and while geared to the Northern Hemisphere, a lot of the information holds true for cannabis cultivation, no matter where you are on the planet. I wish you the best of luck with your growing adventure and feel free to message me through this site for any other Aussie specific questions, I have been doing this for decades now, for staying away from the unscrupulous underground market and obtaining quality and clean personal meds mind you, and love to help people wherever I can. Hope this helps,......... Organoman. P.S. - you won't need an air conditioner, just a small fan or two.

If you want to use hydro, you should have a good way to quickly cool air. Or you will need to buy expensive air conditioner or water chiller like I have to. If you want to use advanced nutrients look at my diary, I am using the newbe combination of nutrients. You can replace voodo juice with hydroguard if available in your region.