ADV Hydro Holland Dutch Formula ppm

You mean divide by 2 bro no?

This is based on a .5scale equipment... i don't have the proper vocab, but a ppm meter is really an EC meter. it measures millisiemens and then factors by /.5. (or double it and add some zeros etc) so a 1.5EC is 750ppm based on the equipment i use. Think "Hanna" does it this way but then some european manufacturers may do a .7 scale? again the zeroes are off because i'm leaving some small bit out in the explanation due to enough to use properly, yet still limited understanding. Anyway, you can see that my "750ppm" could be different than your meter's calculation. Verify. it'll be in the manual of any reputable product. (google 'ppm ec milliseimens .5 .7" should get you more technical info of what i am attempting to explain) 750ppm -- This is a good starting point and react to plant... take notes. adjust for next time -- not just ppm value but the ratio of nutes that make up that value... until it is smooth with nearly all plants. some oddballs are out there, but they shouldn't be common unless a breeder doesn't care about an esoteric trait that can totally screw up nutrition needs, if bred into it by accident or ignorance. gotta avoid bad traits just as importantly as trying to find good traits. IMHO, this is a good set... some of these depend on the water you use... i have very h ard water... so YMMV. I left some more open-ended than others. 120-140 N 50-60 P 180-210 k Secondary 100+ Ca 85+ Mg 100+ S Barring impact of my hard water, this sould work on most plants well... some adjustments expected due to water differences, environemnt, power of your light etc... e.g. if VPD is very high, you need a higher concentration to counteract the slow drinking. many moving parts, but once you understand each individual force you can make better choices. PPMs are just more intuitive to use than the NPK values on labels. Use a spreadsheet and these things can be calculated automatically by typing in percentages of ingredients off the guaranteed analysis labels. online calculators exist too.. check out manic botanix (google search include "nutrient ppm" will get you there) If the plant wants less, you still likely want to stary in the same 2:1:3+ ratio of NPK. It has to do with how each can create an impedence for the others... reduced availability from lockout. pH can throw a huge wrench into this too... keep it steady. in a safe range near 6. Don't do the 5.5 like ppl say... that gives absolutely no room for error on the acidic side. 6 is safer... a little ebb either way won't cause catastrophe. sway too far below 5.5-5.8 and you will lockout necessary molecules the plant needs. Do others do fine with it? sure, but they probably have some esoteric mix of nutes to counteract the low pH. This will make it more difficult to run multiple strains with 1 mix or require more adjustents per plant strain etc etc. it just makes things harder to be consistently good. screw whatever is on the AN instructions. If they suggest some crazy high ppms/EC it's probably more about making you use the product faster to buy more of their overpriced stuff. You cannot force feed a plant. You will always start with the understanding some adjustent may need to be made even with a safe mix... and further adjusted relative to stage of life cycle -- though i'm not suggesting as drastic of a shift in fertilization as what you typically see out there. Burning the shit out of a plant's leaves only reduces photosynthesis, which only reduces growth potential - facts. If what you do burns leaves, try something a little lighter next time. you'll have better results despite giving less P/K boost... lol... it should remind you of idiocracy line "but, it's got electrolytes. that's what plants crave" anyway... based on teh ".5 conversion" equipment, you want a roughly 1.5EC feed. this is lighter than most soil mixes and thought unnecessary, you can even use this on a seedling with a very rare problem if any. the plant can handle more... and in any short period of time more is not a problem. If you start seeing toxicity symptoms and lockout... I'd want to see some research that says the net effect is a positive one before believing anecdotal "knowledge". Photosynthesis is what drives growth. reducing it in any way is more likely kinda stupid. So, simply observe and react... feed as much as you can, but once you see the plant react in a negative way, dial back a tad. As long as you provide as much as it can metabolize in 24 hours, that's all you can ever do in regard to feeding. overfeeding doesn't do shit. that's not how it works. also, AN is very expensive because of all the water weight, large profit margin and unnecessarily making multiple products that could go in 1 bottle... again, to rape you of your money. Real AG products are the exact same components (molecularly speaking, like generic Rx drugs) without the marijuana leaf or some stupid cartoon feature on the logo.... and significantly less cost. Look for a local nursery or farm or warehouse.. buy something that isn't specifically made for crazy hobbyists that are willing to pay grotesquely high prices for products that are ubiquitous commodities.... i spend 30 USD per year on fertilizer. Incrementally, it's about 1 USD per plant for the entire run. (as i try to implement more frequent irrigations, that cost has gone up slightly.. still cheap AF.. let's say it doubled to per plant... in total.. entire run seed to harvest)