BURN MY LSD

on other thing... don't water with a specific volume, unless it was figured out in hindsight. AN is hydro nutes, which are readily available to the plant. You want to fertilize every single irrigation with 10-20% runoff... the runoff eliminates buildup, if religious about. 1.3-1.5EC feed, every single irrigation for a mature plant. This is plenty big enough to feed like a big girl. anyway, irrigate to runoff, then wait for top layer to dry or pre-empt that slightly with coco. Feel weight of pot at this time... if you water at this weight each time, it will require the same amount of water to get 10-20% runoff (10% is fine, but if you err, err above 10% not below.. .extra is a bit wasteful but will only further ensure the proper EC and pH too in your supbstrate.) From that point you can guesstimate how much water you need per pot to plant out any mixing to reduce waste.. leftovers are good for a bit... especially if kept cold and dark, otherwise better to use something plant-ready within 48hours.. maybe 3-5 days at most. stagnant water is dangerous.. nutes should be cheap... if they are not, change brands. tossing out a gallon or 2 of water shouldn't even be a though in your mind... the runoff waste CAN be used outside, but don't use it on a potted plant, and don't let a pot sit in its waste water. because your nutes are chelated and ready to use, you don't need things like myco... some bacteria inoculations that help compete with bad microbes and therefore help prevent them are still very useful indeed. aiding "uptake" is not needed with such nutes... less benefit received from "myco" than when using soil nutes, which potentially makes them relatively useless in a soilless/hydro context. other beneficial microbes are still useful.

Stick with EC because ppm is calculated differently from ec on ppm pens and meters... if oyu live in europe, you may find that a ppm suggestion from an american is a really bad number to go by, lol. assuming this is north america.. 282 is a .6EC give or take (~.564). If eu, it's lower than that. divide by 700 instead of 500. .6ec is very low even for a plant approaching 3 weeks. so, you are safe. If you don't see any symptoms, i'd continue until you see a need to amp up... usually the cotyledons, if still there, will start to pale before anything else.. but at some point they will fall off even if happily fed. The one leaf with a hint of issue is touching ground... could be the cause. those single bladed early leaves are often rough around edges for no reason, too. if you want to go up to a 1-1.5EC feed, you'd be safe... young seedlings do fine in 1 ec. 1.3-1.5 is probably where you find it hits a happy zone for a fully mature plant receiving near max amounts of light per day... weaker light = weaker feed needed. SEveral other relative factors, like VPD... high vpd may need a slightly lower EC because of increased transpiration occurring... lower vpd may need a small bump to dose to counteract slow tranpiration (VPD directly impacts rate of water uptake in plant) It's all relative... many moving parts.. learn which way tehy push and it gets super easy to figure things out on your own.

Except root stimulant or bacterial extras i dont feed girls till 2-3 week, nothing just good ph 6.3-6.4 , himidity, some showers, some leaf tucking, but no feed. Soil is ritch for such time, even longer. Just with organics you have to feed a bit upfront, thinking what you do. Go plain water for next few weeks, she should make it. Happy Growing !!!