make sure pH is proper.
After that... could be Ca deficiency... coinciding with N-deficiency. The paling at bottom from leaf tip in is N. The dots with no interveinal chlorosis is Ca. The Ca is more concerning... the N is very isolated, so i wouldn't react too strongly to it... unless it progressed very fast recently. Too often "bloom" suggestions cut N too much. If lower than 120ppm, good chance you need to up N ppm 5-10%.
Mg deficiency can look like a Ca deficiency, but it comes with interveinal chlorosis too. so, dots without any paling in veins is Ca related.
i'm not familiar with resulting EC nor individual nute ppm's etc.. so you'd have to put in the effort to make it ore of an apples to apples undertanding. 2mL of this or that nute will potentially have drastically different concentrations, so 2mL/L doesn't tell much unless someone uses that specific product.
looks like AN even has a calculator for you:
https://oregon.advancednutrients.com/nutrient-calculator/
if Ca is lower than "100" it's even more likely a Ca deficiency... fwiw, our tap water often has Ca in it, so i put quotes around "100" for this reason as it is not a precise number... it will range relative to your tap water..
e.g. if you use RO, you probably want 120-130ppm of Ca.
when you see many symptoms that conflict or confusing to diagnose, it's more likely lockout (something is way too high) or pH related. Not alwys, but high probability.
120-140 N
40-60 P
180-210 K
Depends on gentics and environment, but these are good ranges for an every irrigation feed in a soilless context... which is how you shold use AN.
The secondary stuff depends on water a bit so these are less specific
Ca 100-130
Mg 80-90?
S 100+
in general an every irrigation feed around 1.3 to 1.5 EC is good to go with mature plants. 650-750PPM on 500-scale. EC pens convert EC to ppm differently in some regions, so if in europe you'll have to adjust my ppm suggstions. If converted from EC to ppm on 700 scale, it'll be a smaller number. The EC or CF measured is the same regardless of region.
strength of light, co2, temps, rh all will impact how much a plant can handle (perceive as a rate.. like per day or per week). if you meet the needs optimally, the plant maintains healthy look. if anything builds up or is lacking it shows symptoms. This is why i give a fairly wide range of 1.3-1.5 as a good target for you... you'll have to read and react from there. tht is only for mature plants. for seedlings better to be down near 1.0 EC or even a bit lower (promix comes with a 1ec charge, for example and in very similar ratios of what i suggest above.. this is no accident even though i didn't use that as a guide. they and JR Peters came to similar conclusions independently of each other).