Need PPM schedule for autoflowers in soil.

Autoflowers require a hell of a lot lower ppm than photoperiods - and the numbers given below will undoubtedly not be tolerated by your plant.... seriously. I've never really paid attention to the ppm when I've grown in soil - I pay GREAT attention to it when I grow in DWC (which is pretty much all I do now...). For me, the rule of thumb for growing in soil is that first of all, you don't give them any nutes for the first couple of weeks.... plain pH'd water is just fine for them. Starting about Week 2 or 3, you can introduce nutes at a 1/4 strength of what the nute line's feeding chart says to give... the reason for this is that most feeding charts are giving recommendations for photoperiods, NOT autoflowers - two totally different beasts. If the plants tolerate the 1/4 strength, you can increase the dose to 1/2 strength the next week... I've never gone above 1/2 strength for any of my grows as autos just don't need much - for them, less is more. When they're going to start heading into pre-flower (around Week 3 or 4 - some take up to Week 6 or 7 to get there), you should start reducing the grow nutes and increasing/adding the bloom nutes and a dose of calmag (calmag should only be used once a week)... When you get to the 2nd or 3rd week of flower, you should consider adding a PK booster as this will give you much bigger/denser buds. All of that being said, I can tell you what the ppm is that I use for DWC ... it's going to be slightly different for soil since DWC requires nutes as soon as the roots hit the water... but it will give you a general idea of what to do if you read the "weeks" as the ones you give them nutes in - so MY "week 1" might be YOUR "week 2 or 3": Week 1 - ppm between 100 and 200 Week 2 - ppm between 200 and 300 Week 3 - between 300 and 400 Week 4 - between 400 and 500 Week 5 - between 500 and 600 Week 6 and beyond 600 Now, I've had a lot of grows where the plants can't tolerate a ppm any higher than 450... and other grows that need more... so you're going to have to listen to your plants, "read" them to know what to do. Just remember, a deficiency is MUCH easier to fix than a toxicity - always, always remember that less is more with them! Good luck!