After a week I search for the seed and saw that no...

don't store in a fridge as the humidity can fluctuate greatly. Age is the biggest thing as well as how it is stored. viability drops over the years. you got an older batch or they were stored poorly etc... I store mine in a drawer (not optimal either but better than huge fluctuating humidity in a fridge) and still get 100% 1.5 years later with some homebrew seed (11/11, so small sample). I expect that to start dropping off as i get into year 2 and 3. side note: Autoflowers do suck... a high water mark - a single point of data while ignoring normal/typical distribution that is clearly not represented by that 1 data point - is not evidence against the fact they are inconsistent and unpredictable in regard to size and yield. they are only useful if you want to grow outside in an offseason. They aren't even "faster". It's nuts peopel say that. All you have to do is look at any diary and see it has a vege period, transistions, and flowers. the growth rate doesn't change. it merely takes the choice away from you when to flower, lol. rate of growth is not magically faster in these plants because a majority of plebs say so. While not as bad as in the past, they are on average lower potency plants, too. Some exceptions may exist.

Was likely a bad batch of seeds. I have gotten them before from companies. Autoflowers only do well in Coco/perlite mix or in dwc. They generally won't do much in soil. They need the Hydro boost us of growing to get decent yields. My biggest autoflower yield was 13 ounces 320 something gram dry. So autoflowers suck has no idea what he is talking about. That is my advice.

Here's the best tip i can give you. Everything else is secondary. DONT BUY AUTOFLOWER SEEDS! If you want a solid yield and a stable plant, buy photoperiods from a reputable breeder. Personally, i trust Barney's Farm. They have been around forever and their seeds have never left me disappointed. When you want to crack some seeds, the method i use is plop them in a glass of water for 18 to 24 hrs. They don't need to sink. Let them float on the surface, it only matters that the water makes contact with the shell. After that period of time, wet a paper towel on a plate and drop the seed on it and fold the towel over the seed. The climate where i live is super dry so i have to cover 95% of the plate with cling wrap to preserve the moisture. Otherwise the towel will dry out and your seed is kaput! When the seed cracks and a tap root emerges, i still let it come out further so the tap root is 1/2 to 3/4 inch long. Then i carefully pickup the seed with a tooth pick or a spoon. The idea is to be really gentle and careful and this stage. Don't pinch it bang it drop it or be aggressive with it in any way. Plant it in a small container tap root down, in a 3/4 to 1" hole in the center. Once it's in the hole gently back fill the hole. just move a little soil over the hole to cover it. No need to press it down or pack it. just be really gentle in everything you do. Mist the soil surface and keep it moist till it emerges from the soil. Then use a syringe and administer water. Don't mist the seedling, and don't cover it with a humidity dome. Don't get water on the stem, but rather water around the plant about 1 inch from the stem. Keep your light about 1 foot from the top of the young tender seedling. Of course i'm talking about a low intensity light like a T-5 fluoressant full spectrum grow light. (i will live 1000 years and i'll still never spell fluoressant correctly lol) People that plant a seedling in a large container from seed tend to over water their plants. Incremental pot transplanting helps to manage that. But everyone wants to grow those stupid fucking autoflower plants and apparently transplanting has a negative impact on them. So i guess if you wanna plant in a big pot, go ahead, but be very cautious of your watering regiment.