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Leaf symptom

Kief64
Kief64started grow question 5 months ago
This showed up pretty much over night. Not widespread just this leaf and one other. Can't find in any of the leaf problem charts I see online. Anyone recognize?
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Week 4
Leaves. Color - Pale
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AutoflowersSucK
AutoflowersSucKanswered grow question 5 months ago
Magnesium Deficiency displays as a yellowing of the leaf tissue between the veins while the veins remain green. That plant kind of resembles it, but geez, thats not typically the classic look of magnesium deficiency. I mean it is, but it isn't. Magnesium if i recall is mobile, which means if the soil doesn't have it, it's going to pull it from the bottom of the plant to use it at the top. Thats why it shows up first in the lower half of the plant and not the top. What throws me off a little is the droopy down curled edges, but that could be from a little over watering, and unrelated to the stripe issue. Man, i have to keep referencing that pic. If it was more yellow between the veins then it would be more evident that it's magnesium, But the damaged tissue isn't yellow, it's more of a flat light green. Are you keeping your pH consistent, or are you being casual with it? You know, like 6.4 pH one nutrient/water mix, then the next water you mix a 5.8 pH and call it good? Not likely but have to ask anyway. pH fluctuation can cause a problem for plants and can even cause something that kinda resembles that, but again, not really. Where it is on the plant means something as much as what is on the plant does. I'm gonna say, reluctantly, that you can either buy a bottle of calmag, which will have Mg and start watering that in at the recommended dose with each watering and see if that halts the problem and perhaps reverses it. Calmag also has some N and some Ca, and FE. All of which are important in keeping your plants green. Or if you want to just try straight Magnesium you can Mix some epsom salts into your water and pH to 6.2 and water that in on your next watering. It won't take long for that to reverse if it's magnesium, but i don't feel confident that thats what it is. It just doesn't look like the classic magnesium deficiency look. Try the calmag or epsom salt watering at 6.2 pH. If it resolves, we were right! If it doesn't, then you know it's not likely Magnesium. Watering in either product won't harm anything anyways so there's no risk in trying those things. Just remember to water when your pots feel light. Don't just go by a set schedule until you know how your plants are drinking. It's easy to over water a plant of that size. And if this is in happy frog or ocean forest like you mentioned in the DM, then those soils are very thick and dense and have high water holding capacity and low oxygen retention because they don't come with perlite. Last year i grew a big fuckin raspberry boogie in the back yard with ocean forest and i had to add perlite. I see your soil has perlite so you must have added some? Well, thats my best guess, but i'm not confident that it's the correct one, but it's all i can figure. I'm gonna watch this question to see what other's conclude. It's very interesting. Isn't it a bitch when deficiencies don't display in classic ways? Calcium is often like that. Shows up in lots of different ways.
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Deadis
Deadisanswered grow question 4 months ago
Drought stress. Did u just water it before the damage showed?
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Organoman
Organomananswered grow question 4 months ago
Starting to burn due to nitrogen toxicity from feeding too much, too often...........or both.
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Angus_MacGrower
Angus_MacGroweranswered grow question 4 months ago
This kind of necrosis and leaves curling down are signs that the soil PH is drifting away. Water your plant until the run-off becomes clear again, leave the soil to dry out sufficiently and resume fertilising as normal.
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BerrySweetHigh
BerrySweetHighanswered grow question 4 months ago
Hello my friend, the deficiency that your plant is suffering from is due wrong pH and EC values in the soil. The easiest way to fix this issue is by doing a small flush. Use the pot volume in water with a low EC around 1.0 is enough and a pH value of 6.2 You give the pot volume with this solution. So if you are using a 10 liters pot then you use 10 liters solution to flush. After you have given it then you want to let it drain good before putting them back inside the grow room for about 1 hour. When you finished flushing let the soil dry. You want the top inch from the soil to be completely dry before watering again. Then you can continue feeding like you did but with a stable pH and EC. PH 6.2 and EC 1.5 would be a good way to go in this phase of the grow. Also make sure that you uave runoff every time you water. A glas full is enough just to prevent nutrient salts building up inside your pot. Happy Growing buddy!
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m0use
m0useanswered grow question 4 months ago
This looks like a massive shock to the rootzone, be is temps, salts or PH. It could be that something in the medium is growing, like a fungus or mold and it is altering the PH so drastically that it is causing this. Maybe this was compounded by low temps at night and it shocked it. If you have not calibrated your PH pen if you use one, I suggest doing that to confirm it is reading it right and your not accidentally acidifying your medium. I read in your last week that you added in some molasses, I have noticed any time I do this it gives me more problems then it solves. If you added in a big amount of it that might be what caused this issue. I also do not see any feeds listed in the diary but the AN brand name stamp is in the diary? If your feeding liquid nutrients with no estimation on its concentration via EC and no runoff to prevent a build up its going to cause some issues. Best Of Luck!
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auto_floo
auto_flooanswered grow question 5 months ago
I had the same before on my plant ,keep using almighty cal-mag ,make sure PH is correct,I checked your diary all looks ok ,and eventually that leave will die off.
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Polyphemus
Polyphemusanswered grow question 5 months ago
wet rootzone? how are your watering habits? Top off perlite % to 50, next time. You may irrigate more frequently, but it is nearly impossible to drown roots this way. so habits.. correct if not doing this. Water until you get some minimum runoff. Feel the weight of the fully watered pot after any runoff stops. You can get very familiar with how much you need to give over time. No dry pockets left in soil. Then, wait for top 1" to dry. With so little perlite, wait for that full inch deep to dry unless you see a wilting plant screaming for water. Feel the weight of the pot at this point. If you water at the same loss of weight each time, then you know it requires the same volume of water last time. Don't choose the volume of water to give. Do not choose the interval between irrigations. Both habits are wrong.. overtly wrong, no ifs or buts. a too frequently saturated rootzone can cause what you see. up the perlite and it'll be more robust to such things. In flower if you want to increase how often you irrigate, you can, but still need some minimum wet-dry cycle to occur to avoid risks. inteveinal chlorosis which would turn to necrotic spots before long and the mottling are the symptoms i see here.
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