Variegation -- the half pale leaf. not a problem.
The mottling of the leaf in first picture is probably due to being physically close to the substrate -- high RH? weird osmotic balance in the plant? In othe rpictures he tips of the lower leaves look like they've been in contact with the substrate, which is why they look rough on some leaves. That leaf in first pic also has a little pigmentation oddity (varigation) which isn't a problem.
The tacoing of some leaves (serated tips curling up) is probably environmental... heat or dry air could do it.
The plants are a bit 'heavy' with water - the rippled look. This isn't about how frequently or volume of water used. The cellsl being extra full of water most likely relates to a gradient balance of solutes (dissolved minerals - organic or not, lol). Water will flow in an out of the cells to even out the concentration gradient. if excess solutes are in the cell compared to outside, water flows in. i wouldn't assume the cause. probably more than one reason it can happen. I've seen it with plants that were otherwise happy as far as i could tell and it's always been a temporary issue for me... proceed with patience, is my suggestion.
Could be slightly overfeeding them as they are clawing a bit. I'd fix your watering/fertigation habits, first, then re-assess.
Watering habits -- fix this first, then re-assess as long as nothing progresses quickly in a negative way.
Water entire pot - always. Never partially water a pot. Never add some volume you decided was enough. Always water with enough volume to wet the entire substrate. There's no such thing as "oversaturated" simply from watering a pot like a normal person... i.e. don't run water through it for 30minutes type common sense required. Don't water everyday despite a lack of the plant drinking enough to warrant it. Dry pockets are the devil. Over time they will introduce all sorts of elevated risks of nutrient build up -- salt or organic doesn't matter either in this case.
Wait for top layer to dry -- this is different based on water holding capacity of the substrate, e.g. coco coir you don't wait for an 1" deep to dry like you do with a typical high water capacity soil. Feel the weight of the pot. IF consistent, it will require the same volume of water to restore that weight. This is how you can predict how much fertilized water you need to mix up accurately. Not because someone arbitrarily chose to give 1L per day.
Simple as that... get it wet, wait for some dryback, repeat. Don't make it complicated or interject false beliefs. Don't try to choose the volume required.
if in soilless, get a 10% runoff waste to ensure a consistent equilibrium of nutes around the roots. This doesn't mean you won't have to tweak the formula, but does mean any symptom you see is due to an out of balance formula and nothing to do with buildup in the substrate.
in soil, you want to minimize runoff unless you are trying to dilute the substrate. No reason to piss your amendments down the drain that you paid for (came with the soil). you do want a little bit just to ensure you didn't leave any dry pockets in the soil after irrigation.
over/underwatering is grossly misunderstood by people. You can't oversaturate a substrate. That's a matter of being too wet for too long and requires multiple early irrigations or running obscene volumes of water throughthe substrate to the point you drown your roots -- not waiting for enough dry back to occur. underwater is obvious.. you'll see wilted leaves.
Ther is one other factor - properly constituted substrate. With soil or sphagnum peat moss, you want 50% perlite or similar mixed in. with coco coir, 33% is enough -- being exact isn't necessary but don't be off by large amounts, either. This ensures proper water:gase mixture in substrate and virtually avoids drowning roots from irrigating in all common sesne contexts.