Does anyone have experience with plagron nutrients for autoflower? I plan to try plagron coconut nutrients in autopot. Is the dosage half of the stated amo

Yes, from a friend of mine. Since autoflowers tend to be more sensitive to nutrients than photoperiod plants, starting with half the recommended dosage is a good approach. Start with a lower dosage: 50% of the recommended amount is a safe starting point. You can gradually increase if the plants show no signs of nutrient burn or deficiency. Monitor EC & pH: Keep an eye on your electrical conductivity (EC) levels and pH (ideally around 5.8–6.2 for coco). If you're using Plagron Coco A&B, consider adding Plagron Pure Zym to help with nutrient uptake and root health.

I don't like that brand. Lot of "magic ingredients" and bullshit claims on their products. I'm sure it can feed and grow the plant just fine, but their are other options for less money and more concentrated product without all the fluffnnutter bull shit that company pushes. Good advice by numbers as well.

If you grow in coco, you really should frtigate in a way that allowed 10% runoff.. it's the primary advantage of using an inert substrate... it's part of why soilless grows consistently and at a good rate of growth. Without the runoff, you no longer maintain a consistent concentration of nutrients in the substrate. It makes diagnosing and optimizing your formula incredibly easy. Autoflowers are just normal flowers. They really aren't special in any way except the fact they 'flip' to flower ontheir own without a trigger, like a long dark cycle for photoperiods. It'll be happy with a similar ratio and proper concentration for a soilless context - one in which you provide 100% of the nutrient needs... and should religiously get 10% runoff, lol. 1.3-1.5EC for soilless is typically where you'll be -- that is just an overall concentration. The ratio of nutes are equally important for it to work well. 1.3-1.5EC doesn't gaurantee anything on its own. Local variables willmake one garden slightly different from another as far as max concentration or max DLI etc... these things much jive with each other to avoid buildup or deficiency. Without the 10% runoff, you can and likely will experience a buildup of nutes in your substrate at some point.. at which point you'll have to treat it more like a soil grow and possibly flush it occasionally due to that buildup over time. Plants don't take in all nutrients at all times. Some are targeted and individually absorbed -- "active transpot". you can look that term up and verify it's not bro science but real biology with evidence to supoprt it. So, the plant will cause changes to ratio of nutes in your substrate over time -- again, this is where 10% runoff is king.. it mitigates this phenomenom and never has enough opportunity/time to cause a problem. The 10%5 runoff resets the concentration levels and ratios each time you fertigate. Autopots are fine, but they take the primare advantages of soilless method and shits on it. Might as well use soil, lol. you won't get the accelerated growth rate of soilless if not adhering to standard methods of soilless. this is the antithesis of keeping it simple.