Banana Purple Punch Auto RF3

most soils need something after the first 4-6 weeks. When I grow I do amendments every 4 weeks. Top dress and mix em in. sometimes a bit of fresh new soil ontop of it as all the microbes are in the top layer to break down the amendments and feed your plants.

Magnesium deficiency

The drooping tips are overall dark green look seems to point to an abundance of nitrogen. The slight yellowing may indicate the need for extra magnesium, a common issue with indoor grows under LED lights. I don't see any real issues with a lack of posphorous........or potassium or nitrogen. 6-8 weeks is about the maximum from any soil mix before needing additional feeding. Start with half strength every 7-10 days when you get to that point. I am extremely doubtful about any insect or fungal problems. Organic growing does not magically increase the need for oxygen in the root zone........ I wish people would not post AI answers...........

Some nutrients leech with each watering further and further down, potentially out of reach of root zones. Different nutrients have different mobilities in soil, much like mobility in the plants. I don't see enough of a problem to pinpoint other than that chlorophyll seems to be affected across the plant, but very slightly. Organic growing requires much more oxygen in a medium compared to a synthetic medium, microorganisms "scavenge" oxygen too. This is often overlooked, I know from experience also that fabric pots are not even half as "airy" when compared to an airpot, the difference was surprising to me at least. Hypoxia is something that occurs when oxygen runs low in a medium. More often than not, an "oversaturation" of a medium will cause problems as oxygen moves 10,000 times slower in a medium saturated past a point, so even if it's there, its more or less "locked out". A plant grown in a hypoxic medium will generally have diminished chlorophyll content, a condition known as chlorosis, low oxygen concentrations in the root zone inhibit nitrogen, potassium, and magnesium, all of which are vital components of the chlorophyll molecule but it would explain why symptoms always appear attached to the big 3, often worst thing you can do is add more of the big 3 when its not an actual deficiency. While osmosis is the mechanism by which water enters a plant's roots, the process of osmosis itself does not stop in oversaturated soil; the plant's biological capacity to sustain the conditions needed for effective osmosis is compromised by the lack of oxygen itself. Osmosis is necessary to get water into plant roots, which then drives the pressure for bulk flow up the xylem, the majority of calcium and magnesium is taken up by plant roots and transported throughout the plant via bulk flow (mass flow) in the xylem. Make sure RH is not staying above 60 consistently overnight. Gluck, get her juices flowing.

I WOULD CHECK UNDER DA LEAVES WITH A MICROSCOPE FOR CRITTERS AND FUNGUS!!! REMEMBER LIVING SOIL NEEDS TO BE MOIST NEVER SATURATED OR DRY BACK COMPLETELY!!! WRONG WATERING PRACTICES CAN AND WILL CAUSE ISSUES!!!

In living soil you will need to add amendments before the 10 week point. Depending on how the soil was put together and what was added at the start.